Mopar1973Man

As for today I've been working to clean Thor up and ditch all the un-needed junk, papers, trash, etc. Pressure washed the engine, washed the exterior, washed interior panels, etc. This is just the start of it just trying to roughly clean up the mess and being comfortable driving the truck again. I know the seat fabric is dirty and needing cleaning and the carpets too. At some point I'm going to pull the seats out of the truck and clean the fabric and pull the carpet and power wash the carpet. I'm going to keep the factory steel wheels but I'll paint them again since the paint is peeling off. Like my last post I was looking for paint for the bed and frame being this is salt country and need to deal with the rust that is already well on its way on the frame and bed. Once the GoPro camera gets here on Tuesday I'll be full throttle into working on this truck. I'll be video recording everything I'm doing. Just an example I'm going to pull the 2 inch leveling kit out being the bed is about 2 inches lower than the front it look like its squatting most of the time. The thrust angle is wrong also being its got a solid track bar so the axle is not centered. Thor is going to be set up for longevity and economy just like Beast is now. Nice outdoor job to do when its finally 76*F for weather bright and sunny.

I use the NAPA 7um filter. Then I got the 3um on the AirDog 150 and change the filter every 60k miles. This interval only works IF you NOT pumping from the sender basket which the fuel is too hot then you must stick to 15k filter changes. This is due the return fuel is much hotter and creates aphaltenes which plug up this filters faster. You need to keep fuel temps below 140°F to prevent this. Since in using the drawstraw my fuel temperature barely get to 120 to 130°F in the summer. This is how I'm able to extend filter changes beyond 15k.

Another solution is air rifle BB's. Just dismount the wheel from the truck pull the valve core let the air out break the bead on one side the add the same amount of weight as the dyna beads get the same results. I've got two bottles in my shop for this purpose eventually I'll do it.

Not sure what you mean on cutting off the bracket? I'm assuming isolator like fuel pressure? Photo would be nice to see what you mean. I would attempt to replace the stock filter back so you have you WIF light, possibly fuel heater for the cooler winter months I know your in Texas but furl heater is used with temps below +60°F. Warm fuel ignites faster and easier.

Another project for this summer is painting the flat bed and cleaning up all the rusty metal and fix all the lighting on the bed. There is some wiring missing and more lighting I want to add to the bed for work lights and fix the marker lights. I'm planning on removing the bed and sanding back the rusty metal and painting the metal. Flip the bed and do the bottom as well. Re-run all the electrical and put a hitch plug near the goose neck hitch. I already have the bumper plug already. I found a product made by Rustoleum which is a bed liner paint that has some really high reviews I'm going to even paint the frame and treat the rear half of the frame and rear axle and parts. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-248915-32-Ounce-Coating/dp/B0070S7U4Y/

6 Speed G56 Transmission with a Valair Quiet Dual Disc Clutch (Organic).

Oil Change Required Tools and Materials 3 Gallons of Engine Oil 15w-40 Oil Filter Waste Container 3/8 Ratchet Oil Filter Wrench Magnet Tool (optional) Rags or Paper towels Viscosity of Oil Typically we all use the standard 15w-40 diesel engine oil for viscosity. The only time you need to change down to 5w-40 is in the dead of winter when temps are near zero for operation. I will warn this is going to be synthetic diesel oil and not very cheap. As for the 15w-40 oil I've been using it year-round here in Idaho with temps as low as 0*F to -20*F. API Specification Be aware there is an oil type specification. All diesel oil will be labeled with an API seal typically on the back of the jug or bottle. It should show CJ-4 or newer which is CK-4. Most will agree that CK-4 is a good old but others will say CJ-4 has issues because of the removal of some compounds like zinc. If you stick to a quality brand like Chevron Delo, Rotella, or even NAPA brand oil you will be fine. Oil Filters Then there is the filter I know this is going to be a touchy also. I've been using NAPA Gold filters most of the life of my trucks with zero issues. There is Fleetguard or Mopar but I will warn you that the Mopar filter is just a re-badged Fleet Guard filter. Then the other warning is do not use any Fram filters, there is a Dodge TSB warning that the warranty will be voided because Fram filters are poorly designed and may separate internally in the can and not filter any debris out causing engine damage. Oil Filter Wrench The oil filter wrench is optional. The filter wrench might be needed if you cannot get a grip on the oil filter and twist it off by hand. Typically the oil filter wrench isn't required as long as you follow a simple tip, just seat the filter till it touches the base. Then tighten only 3/4 of a turn and that's it. Oil Change Take the truck out and drive long enough to warm the engine up to 140*F to 160*F. Have a nice clear and level area like your lawn, dirt pad, or concrete area. Now position the waste container under the oil pan of the engine. Using your 3/8 ratchet the square tip of the ratchet will fit into the square hole of the plug. It's a standard right hand there so "lefty loosey" or counterclockwise as your looking at the bottom of the pan. This truck needed a bath before the photo it was rather oily down on the pan. Once the plug is loose you can spin the plug with your fingers and allow it to either drop the plug in the container or hang on to the plug and get a hand full of engine oil. That's what the magnet tool is for to fish the drain plug out of the container without sticking your hand in. I suggest allowing the oil to drain for a very long time at least a few hours to allow all the oil to come out of the oil cooler and oil galleries. Let it drain all the engine oil till it stops dripping completely to do it right. At this point, you can remove the air box or cold air intake to gain access to the oil filter. You can grab the oil filter wrench and loosen the oil filter. Spin the filter off and be aware the oil will run out over the top possibly maybe a bit hot. Be careful the filter will be slick and hard to hold. This will help allow the oil to drain out of the oil cooler and main galleries. Wipe the filter base off with a rag or paper towel make sure the old filter seal is not stuck to the filter base and it did come off on the old filter this is important. Leave the new filter off till the draining is done. SUGGESTION: I've been known to do the oil change at the end of the day I'll pull the oil drain plug and oil filter and leave the truck sitting all night draining this is the best way to get all the old oil out. Now that all the oil is drained. Reinstall the drain plug you want it tight but don't go overboard on this the pan metal is thin and could be possible to strip the pan threads out. Take the new oil filter and add a bit of oil to the seal and lube it up. I highly suggest against pre-loading the filter. Anything that is poured in the center of the filter hole is unfiltered when it goes to the engine. I've seen engines damaged by bits of foil seal or plastics that were poured into the center hole of the filter plugging up oil cooling jets and scoring bearing up from the debris. Again DO NOT pre-load the filter and leave it dry. As said above screw the filter on the filter mount till it seats and then only tighten 3/4 of a turn that's it. You should have a 3-gallon case of oil. You can start pouring the oil back into the engine. It will take the full 3 gallons of oil. Now once the engine is refilled with oil start the engine and monitor the oil pressure gauge. The gauge should pop right up in about 3 to 4 seconds. WARNING: If no pressure in 10 seconds, SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN IMMEDIATELY! Find out what went wrong before restarting again. Leave it running and go out and look at your oil filter and make sure it's not leaking. This step is required to do. I've seen too many shops in a hurry and spin a new filter on and the old seal was stuck to the base and it will blow out and have oil everywhere. I've also seen oil filters rupture at start-up. After the inspection shut it down and wait a few minutes and let the oil settle into the pan. Now pull the dipstick and wipe it off. Re-dip the stick back in and pull it out again. The oil may be a very light color or might be black already. This will depend on it you hurried on the draining or let it go all night. Check your level it should be right at the full mark. Now, this completes the oil change but you should keep a log book for your maintenance. This way you know when to change the oil again. I use an app on my phone called Simply Auto which tracks my maintenance and my fuel logs so it get a notification of when oil changes are needed. View full Cummins article

No. Just insert the nozzle put the handle on full tilt and let it pump no issues. That is because the vent line the smaller one is either a low spot that filled with fuel, kinked, or located poorly in the filler neck.

Ok here we go here I got @Honey Badger Jeep here and got things to do on it. There is a wheel joint in the front passenger side that has a U-joint with a welded bearing cap. I'm not going to point fingers but need to handle that and basically I'm going to order a new outer stub for that side and U-joint from NAPA and replace. There is electrical issues in the passenger doors both front and rear windows and door locks don't work at all. The front end is low on the passenger side and I'm betting money the front coil spring on the passenger side is collapsed some. Few oil leaks and power steering hose leaking. I know this is not a Cummins project but I'll start documentation even on this project because of how popular Jeeps are.

Ok gang I know a lot of you wanted to see 3rd Gen articles and action in the 3rd Gen category. Here we go I'm going to start on Thor and getting it fixed up like Beast is making it a good economy shop vehicle with good pulling power. I've got a oil leak on the engine some where so I've got to power wash and hunt that leak down and deal with. I'm going to need a full 4" exhaust system most likely do muffled. I'm going to look into a Cold Air Intake and quality air filter that isn't going to pass dust and dirt being I'm still going to have to roll the dirt roads out here. I've got interior work being the driver seat is blown and the foam is gone on the outsider edge. Thor is going to get the attention for the time. Here is what I'm starting with...

Yep. Orange/white wire and a black/light green wire so that is the overdrive switch.

Check this out for key fobs... https://www.amazon.com/Keyless-1999-2002-1999-2000-GQ43VT9T-56045497/dp/B06Y5HQL52?th=1

So if it starts hot wired then the security function very well could be hanging up starting on the ECM. Might ask @Auto Computer Specialist if it's possible to flash that code out so it gone. The other thought would be order a new key fob and have a dealer flash the fob codes in.

This might help but I can't see the style of plug nor where the wires are going.

You need to talk to @Auto Computer Specialist . They can test your wiring harness for issues and repair it. They can test and repair both the PCM and ECM.

No. The P1688 means the VP44 PSG is no longer functional. The P1689 means the PSG is unable to communicate because a of the P1688 code The P0230 means the voltage / current of the lift pump is out of range. Lift pump is most likely bad or wiring issue.

I was born and raised in LA California. After having things stolen from my home, my car broken into multiple times. Then dealing with the traffic and other issues down there I bailed out to Idaho with my family back in 1990. I don't like even Lewiston or Boise because they are too big of a city really to live in either. I'm way better off staying put right here in Idaho where I'm at. Less dumb- drivers, less theft problems, less taxes, less cost of living, etc. I didn't have a choice of where I was born or living when I was young but now I know the truth and don't want any of the current big city issue. @JAG1 I know you struggle with being outside of Proland, OR.

No. Think a second. How do farmer plant fields? Diesel Tractor. How does the crop get to market? Diesel Semi-truck. How does the store get food on the shelves? Employees, with either gas or diesel powered vehicles. It has zero to do with population but more to do with Biden's desire to shut down all petroleum production. So since fuel is 6.00 a gallon for diesel and figure a single tank on a semi-truck could be 100 gallons that is $600 a tank for fuel. Consider the farm tractors what it takes for running them through the fields to havest or plant said crops. Prices must go up. Like myself I had to change prices of everything I'm doing to stay profitable. Heck with price a fuel I'm now charging $3 a mile to travel to jobs period no questions asked because fuel is so expensive. It takes 180 to 200 dollars to fill Thor now. Use to be just 80 to 90 dollars to fill up now its doubled. Population just means the oil companies are making HUGE profits because of because the opulation needs to pay there bills and working as much as possible and that means travel to and from work. Again population is just the multiplier of the profits that oil company are grining and enjoying Biden's push for the Green New Deal. Nothing green in it for us but the oil companies.

This is why I DO NOT live in a city and hate to be in the city. People are stupid and don't give a crap. Thankfully I'm back home in West Central Idaho.

Still in all if there is a P1688 code that is not clearing hot wire test won't do much being the PSG unit is damaged. Can't fire fuel if the PSG is brain dead.

As for the P1688... Basically the VP44 is dead... At this point the rest of the codes don't count because the PSG unit on the injection pump is shot. I would consider the replacement of the injection pump to insure you have a good PSG unit and don't cheap out. Make sure to buy a pump from a certified Bosch rebuilder or dealer that sells certified Bosh pumps. Like @dieselautopower is the go to spot for a VP44. Also I would highly suggest W-T ground wire mod being that the P1688 is typically from the AC noise issues and bad ground wiring on ECM and VP44.

Welcome to the family... You came to the right place there is enough "gear heads" to keep things moving forward and solve the problems you got.

I've got to look into the photo module on the server it does not seem to see which way is up in the photo. Yup we found a excellent camping spot. Tuck away from the main road. Very peaceful place. This camping trip was a well needed trip. a lot of things had happened during this trip. First off we made a trip over to Warren, ID and visited the old mining town and had a bit of lunch time snack. Wondering the dirt roads. Even picked up a bit of firewood. Now that we had a day of rest playing in Warren. We did wonder the roads a bit more to the north and it get pretty rough out there. One of these day in the sum,er when weather is better we will make the loop from Warren, ID to Yellow Pine, ID which happens to be the most remote town in Idaho. Yeah I've been to Yellow Pine but its been years ago. Oh look close there is a old tree stuimp under my truck... Now on the return to the RV that night we sat down and kind of had a simple dinner of sandwiches. Then we sat down started talking business a bit that night. Crazy part we came up with a business plan for the website and there is going to be major changes and improvements. Matter of fact it last til 1am in the morning just chatting and designing the future of Mopar1973Man.Com. So fair warning there is more to come. A LOT MORE! Again I've got to give huge thanks to @Honey Badger for the ideas and effort she is putting into this whole business.

EGR cooler I would of told you to freeze plug both ends of the exhaust passage. That way the cooler does rupture. Works good on our 6.0L Ford Fire truck.