
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Proper Final Ratio
I just had a good conversation with @Hutch24v just a bit ago. He's looking to squeak out just a bit more MPGs out of his truck. Again he's another person with improper ratios and EGT's are higher and fuel usage as well. He's running 285's and 47RE transmission which 4th gear is 0.68 vs. my 5 speed at 0.75 so it down lower in the final ratio. I'm going to try and help out and look at both of his tunes and hopefully get him the MPG he need to survive the "Biden Energy Crisis" which is affecting all of us like here its $6.029 for diesel in New Meadows when I rolled through this morning. For optimal cruising RPM for 65 should be close to 2,000 RPM's. Like I mention to Hutch24v if your EGT's are below 600*F your doing better than 20 MPG. If your EGT's are higher than 600*F then your lower than 20 MPG. Just a rule of thumb for guessimate on MPG. Just consider at 65 MPH your consuming at least 3.25 gallons of fuel per hour for 20 MPG.
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Our ride down the mountain
Thanks... I'm going to be posting little things like this of @Honey Badger and I trips out in the back country and stuff like that. Might wanna spread the word of TikTok, Instagram, Facebook because I'm going to be posting to these more and more.
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Proper Final Ratio
I know this a common issues for guys adding wheels and oversized tires but to show a quick clip of running down the pavement semi-flat ground at 66 MPH and the tach shows a prefect 2,000 RPM's. The EGT floats today about 600*F, and boost is about 3-5 PSI. Had to try mounting to the side window and see if the GoPro could do it. I found out the LED lighting screws with the frame rate with the flashing displays which its not actually doing.
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Our ride down the mountain
Just for info purpose here is the link to the TikTok page for the website... https://www.tiktok.com/@mopar1973man
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P0252 and not firing
All truck have either a fuse or fusible link. Would suck big time if the alternator short out and burn that charge lead and possible fire.
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Our ride down the mountain
You guess it. Yup your right.
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Our ride down the mountain
https://www.tiktok.com/@mopar1973man/video/7117491575768304942?_t=8Tmzg5A8pqA&_r=1 After doing the Quick Update video I mounted the camera on the windshield and cranked up the music and rolled out.
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P0252 and not firing
I've got the reset-able 150 breaker for 5 years now no issues.
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Squeak/Screech noise in reverse only
Time to pull the drums...
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P0252 and not firing
Actually you should do the the W-T ground wire mod. The AC noise issues from the charging system is the cause of the electronics failure. No because the PSG is damaged on the VP44 so hot wiring will net you the same results too because the fuel signal is missing.
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P0252 and not firing
P0252 code... There is no fuel signal to the fuel pin in the pump so no fuel can be injected. I'm sorry to say but your going to need to replace that VP44. I would suggest giving our site vendor a call @dieselautopower and pick up a new injection pump and just replace it.
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Trans cooler nv5600
Fast Coolers really don't do much other that give a fooled read that is lower because the sensor is away from the actual gear and the fluid appears cooler. What got me thing on those was when I was measuring fluid temps using a meat thermometer and just dipped in the hole was cooler than measure near the gear teeth which was way hotter. So Fast Cooler just moves the sender away from the source of heat and showing the cooled stagnate oil in the coolers. I've got no coolers but the temperature sensor near the PTO gear and give really good accurate reading being it closest to the gears. As for my set up I've heat shielded the exhaust pipe that was worth a good 30*F reduction in temperature. Now the only time I've seen high transmission temperatures was on my trip to Bridgeport CA where the head winds caused the rise being I'm pulling 17,500 pound total weight and bucking winds it was reaching 200 to 210*F since then no issues typically between 150 to 170*F running temperatures. I didn't opt for wrapping the pipe because of the amount of salt used out here that would soak up the salt and rot the exhaust pipe out faster. Even mud will do an excellent job of rotting out a wrapped pipe being every time it get wet it will soak through the fiberglass wrap. Located next to the PTO gear. Using a ISSPro EV2 gauge been programmed for warning light of 225*F.
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Fuel Article - Grid Heater Light / Blown Injector Line #4
@AH64ID what's weird is i got the grid heater light but did not get the error codes for the fuel leak. The code I did get was grid heater performance error. Cleared it out and it didn't come back at all.
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Squeak/Screech noise in reverse only
I've seen where one shoe lost a nail and spring it would be fine forward but made all kinds of racket in reverse. Just the loose hardware can do that. Worth it to investigate both rear brakes and driveline.
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Squeak/Screech noise in reverse only
If your going to check the driveshaft I woulds suggest just pulling the entire shaft out and inspect. Its very difficult at time to feel a bad u-joint while it mounted even with the rear axle off the ground. It will show up better with the shaft removed. Matter of fact that is a video I'll be producing here soon doing Thor's u-joints in the rear I've got a vibration at 65 MPH. As for the brakes drums its possible to have a broken spring or hardware dragging in the drums so it wouldn't hurt to pop those tires off and inspect the drums and hardware for any damage and repair. There is rear drum hardware kits you can pick up at like a NAPA or similar store.
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Thor - New Project Truck
Here we go for Number 4 injector line replacement. Oh don't be too critical I know i fouled the camera angle again. I know the work space is dark in the video but I got a photo added to the article which was updated. Things I've learned just pull the two 10mm bolts out first. Then might work a bit better to have a wobble joint.
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Thor - New Project Truck
Got the new injector line for Thor here I'll be gearing up to do the video here shortly on how to install.
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First drive with VP 44 project
Biggest challenge is creating CCD bud and sending the gauge data back on the bus. Then creating error codes for out of range stuff
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First drive with VP 44 project
Very impressive to build both a PSG and ECM.
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When "bolt on"isn't quite bolt on
Shaking my head... I exercise my truck daily right up to 3,000 RPM at a WOT stand at least once a day. Just did that coming home yesterday passed a slow Ford and took it to 95 MPH. Wastegate set for 35 to 37 PSI. That with a stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) and +150 HP (7 x 0.010) injectors.
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Quadzilla with Iquad
No. The sensor is submerged in the oil but the hottest spot is near the gear teeth. The PTO gear is the closest to the cover which will draw the hot oil to the sensor showing the hottest temperature. Where fast cooler bring the sensor away from the gears an of course the temps look cooler but actually still hot at the gear teeth hence why the claim it runs cooler.
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Quadzilla with Iquad
I use the transmission temp for the oil filter test plug that way to track the engine oil temperature. Also if you do use that transmission temperature sensor make sure that you DO NOT use any thread sealants. No tapes or paste sealants. This will skew the ground signal to the body of the transmission or oil filter housing.
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Dyna beads
Torsion axles used on RVs and utility trailers out here too. Never did like that design of axle for that reason. After a time the rubber degrades from Ozone and then the spring action weakens and the axles could lean in too. Never seen one but I can see how it could over time. I know even the old leaf springs can fail just the same too. Broken spring bolts, u-bolt failures, broken leaf springs, damaged or broken balance beam (multi-axles).
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When "bolt on"isn't quite bolt on
My question is can you adjust the wastegate rod tight enough to hold the gate shut till needed? If the bracket is shortened the the rod length is loner now and the spring in the wastegate motor is going to be too loose and the gate will blow open easily.
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Quadzilla with Iquad
I typically do not use my phone at all, unless I'm doing tune work. Once the tune work is done I don't bother to use my cellphone or even open the tuner. I just use my a-pillar gauges and then the truck looks totally stock and less likely for anyone to steal your truck or break-in because there is no tablet, phone, or display even visible. Best yet get people that don't know you to get into the truck without a display and then they are thinking how is this stock-looking truck so FAST?!?! I want the Bluetooth for my stereo, rocking out to tunes as I travel. Yeah I know I still could but the music is much clearer and less hiccups in the music because of low bandwidth of the Bluetooth with all the data streaming for music and gauge data.