Mopar1973Man

Really? Hmmm... 451k miles later still going. The only battery issue I had was the old starter was having issues and acted like the batteries were dead but after installing the new rebuilt starter, which was my factory OEM starter it started once quick and strong, then the solenoid plunger stuck and wouldn't let go. I have to remove and free the solenoid plunger and been working since. No it didn't arc and stick but wedged the plunger pin inside. Here very soon with winter coming Beast will be my daily driver. It has to be top notch and operating perfectly. Both batteries as they are right now. Dirty as well. Looks like power washing and oiling needed just a small spot of oxidation.

Nope. Never happened with me... I do wash off the batteries with a power washer and then reapply after the washing.

You might want to look back at my post I did look up the viscosity of ATF+4 and its thinner than you think. I was editing my post to add this information. Yes I do understand the viscosity differences between gear oil and crankcase oils. Still in all I do understand that thinner oils do create less drag but do they cling to parts under stress and protect at extreme loads and highway speeds or are they just slung off the parts from centrifugal forces? Like when I look back towards true racing they use some seriously thick fluids to keep everything lubed up. Just food for thoughts...

You might want to look at the ISSPro EV2 Trans Temp gauge for the fan controller. You can get the USB program cable and program the optional relay for a set temperature to turn on the fan and then set your warning light even higher. I thought if I ever install a ISSPro in like Minnie the 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan I would set the fan for 170*F and then warning light for 200*F. This way the fan comes on when needed and not on a toggle switch or keyed hot lead. This allows for quick warm up of the transmission and still protects for working load temperatures.

One of the weird things about automatics. They run a super thin fluid and expected to lube, cool, and be a hydraulic fluid for handling bands and clutches. I know some others have experimented with using tractor hydraulic fluids to better lifespan for performance reasons. I've seen several dump the ATF+4 and use tractor fluids. Again this will only work with modified transmissions. Don't take this as a working solution but I've seen people looking for fluids that don't thin as much with working temperatures under heavy stress. Side note (all manual transmissions) this is why I dropped the factory 75w-85 transmission fluid (actually 10w-30 engine oil for viscosity) in NV4500 in Beast and switch to 50 SAE Trans Fluid its actually 90 weight gear lube GL-4 rated. Same reason I don't want to have it thinning out under heavy loads. Another reason I'll be dumping the ATF+4 out of Thor (G56 Trans) and reloading with 50 SAE trans fluid. Better cling to the gears and bearings and doesn't thin out under heat of heavy stress. Just looked up the viscosity of ATF+4... Which is like like so thin... Look below at 40*C is 34.4 which is like 15W engine oil, then at full temp 100*C it falls off the scale at 7.5.

First let me ask a few dumb questions... Q: What are the only two materials that sulfuric acid can be contained in? 1. Glass 2. Plastic Q: What is plastic made from? 1. Oil So if you keep the terminals wet with just engine oil the corrosion will never happen. To this day I still have my factory battery terminals and they are still in super good condition. I've never had to clean them (wire brush or chemical cleaners). Engine oil will leave just a thin oily film that battery acid will not eat through. It doesn't get on your clothes like the red spray coating that stain. Not like grease that you end up getting on your clothes too.

Saginaw boxes, if the pitman arm is stuck the way I've removed the pitman arm is remove the sector adjustment cover and then let the shaft hang through. Bring the pitman arm nut flush to the tip and lay and 2x4 on top and hit with a BFH. Typically falls out the other side.

Might help to use ARP stud assembly lube, clean the nut threads and the stem threads and coat with ARP lube, then torque it up. That lube helps to reach your torque amount much easier.

Or ODBLink MX which is the newer series.

Temps are normal. I run 193 to 197°F typically and could see 215 to 220°F before fully lock of the fan then it kicks I cools to 197°F. Then unlocks. I know once past 225°F the cluster will trip the check gauge light, chime and the gauge will peg at 240°F. It will not display any temp other that 240 till it drops below 225 again.

@IBMOBILE-JEN is not that bad.

Sounds like you can do a bit of sale for what you got for what he needs.

Compressor front seal behind the clutch might be leaking which will not always have green dye.

There is dirty laundry every where. I'm sure if you check other countries you'll find the same problem.

I might have a bad lift pump on Thor so it's not uncommon for in tank lift pumps fail on CR engines. Just a pain in the to deal with.

First off I don't believe in the big brand oil hype. I ditched factory spec'ed oil being they are TOO THIN I'm running Mobil 50 SAE trans fluid or Valvoline 50 SAE trans fluid which is 90 weight gear lube. Designed for Eaton Fuller 10 speeds. 5 gallon bucket cost way less than AMSOil or Redline again too thin. I'm going to dump the ATF+4 out of Thor and load with 50 SAE trans fluid. Again I don't use pre bled hydraulics being most off the time I've got to pull it all back out and rebled the entire system. Happens more than you think. I don't like the adjustable hydro's as pointed out In my last post. I've got Valair clutches on both trucks are dual disc zero issues. Beast is the performance dual Thor is the Quiet Towing Clutch.

.. and hyperextending the throw out bearing through the fingers of the pressure plate. Not fond of adjustable hydraulics. More and more people think they can adjust the pedal position. It's the amount of throw on the throwout bearing. Be very careful and adjust it properly.

A state away I'm at 40*F for a low and currently 59*F. I've gotta run to NAPA and get a ball joint to finish a project. Signs of a heavy winter is starting to show its face already here. I'm McCall it was 35*F at @Honey Badger place in Lake Fork. Won't be long till snow will fly.

Like my head 18/24 valve guides were worn out and the valves seals were all torn up and laying in the head when I pulled it. Look back in my first post about blown head gasket. Some of the seal were up on the valve stems.

More on 5th gens... https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTR51sDUN/ Be aware FASS fuel system will void your warranty.

If the valve guides are worn the the seals will fail rather quickly. This is due too much valve stem wobble.

Key fob security locking you out? I've seen some that ditched the fob and quit using then have the security prevent start up. Another is the ASD Relay which could prevent start up.

Everything more or less. With a time crunch I need quick turn around being they needed the truck last week just get the new case or a kit would be about the same time being nothing is in stock. Getting the rebuilt unit only take me 0.5 to 1 hour to install.

Yeah CP4 pumps are being recalled and Dodge dealers are installing CP3 as a fix. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRPvcdjK/

Yeah I've got a previous customer back. The white Dodge that I did the AirDog had a problem with 4WD and it wasn't locking in. First thought was CAD axle issues but after testing the transfer case and seeing if the shaft locks nope. Something wrong it the transfer case. I pulled the drain plug nothing came out but 4 drops of black thick oil. Removed the transfer case and open the inspection plate and ther is broken metal, plastic, and pieces. I'm heading to Boise Transmission warehouse to get a reman transfer case Tuesday morning.