Mopar1973Man

PCM disables the ECM from starting when the keyless is in locked mode. Just the door lock control in just part of the central timer.

More you increase the cruise timing the lower the EGTs should be. But keep in mind the negative torque. Typically cruise is near 2k so you need about 19 to 21 degrees at 2k cruise RPM.

At least Beast I've always lube door latches with motor oil since new and still opening correctly. No latch issues.

Remember if you do a leveling kit make sure to do it right. Change out the control arms for adjustable so you get caster angles correct and adjustable track bar to get the thrust angle correct.

The only way to spool turbo faster is retard the timing either change the 1500 to a lower starting say 13 or try Low PSI timing reduct go higher on the scaling 50 to 75 roughly. Retarding the timing should blow more fire and expanding gases at the turbine. Once boost is built then it should flip back to more advanced timing when cruising.

After my 10 mile round trip hike up French Creek. Then consider the fact I walk nearly 3 miles every day in just what I do for a job. I've also got a mountain bike 21 speed with aluminum frame. I ran around on that back when I was 253 pounds. Sure enough after a year of cruising Ontario - Payette which was like 15 mile trips. I lost a lot of weight. Today I'm 215 pounds. My longest ride was 40 miles from Lake Fork, ID to McCall and around Payette Lake and back to Lake Fork.

Basically the cross over tube needs tightening first so the injector can move to self align. Then you can tighten the injector hold down to 89 in-lbs. Matter of fact is just replaced my injector body o-rings because after the head was service last the o-rings where bit small and injectors fell into place. This was possibly the loss of prime issue. Find out this morning when I start it up. Only took an hour to do this.

I've got a clients truck in now I got to do a bit of glue work to fix the broken plastics and get the fasteners to hold the panel correctly. I hosed all the pivots and linkage with straight motor oil and it loosen up quite a bit but I got to re-adjust the linkage because the inside handle isn't working quite yet. (Too loose).

Let us know we are here to help ya...

For most of my daily driving I run level 2 being its got more than enough power to handle most passing and highway travel without being under-powered. If you wanted just a touch more take level 3. I'll admit today I cranked up the Quadzilla to level 7 and stood on the throttle and was frying the tires off the back. Just finally got to doing the o-ring on the injector bodies to fix the hard morning starts. (losing prime). As for frying the tires... There is a reason I went smaller there is less torque trapped in the driveline with smaller tires and can overwhelm the tires and let it loose. Bigger tires will grip hard and driveline and transmission damage can happen. Like I said the combo of the 150 HP injectors and the Quadzilla is a lot of power when using wire tap. Remember I broke my transmission 3 times now. First was on 75 HP injectors (Vulcan Performance) and Edge Comp broke the mainshaft. Then broke 5th gear at 80 MPH on the interstate coming back from Boise. Then my last one I broke the input shaft and countershaft just cruising 65 MPH to Lewiston, ID. This is one of the few reason I run level 2 mostly and I've got my limits set rather low so not to let the Beast loose.

For door linkage I highly suggest motor oil or something that is going to hang around awhile. WD-40 or other products could be washed off short time.

Ummm... With everything your planning on buying you going to be closer to 500 HP to the ground. I'm running 7 x 0.010 DAP injectors with a small tweak of popped at 320 bar instead of 310 bar. Quadzilla with my Economy tune is giving me a good 500 HP to the rear wheels with a Hx35/40 turbo. I just lost my hybrid turbo (bearings wore out). Now I'm back on stock HX35W turbo and still running good super low EGT's. Super high MPG topping out at 28.04 MPG. Zero smoke... Look at the odometer vs the fuel gauge... Leave it stock turbo and stock injectors. Then just add the Quadzilla. That will put you at your goal 350 to 400 HP being the Quadzilla is capable of 180 HP by itself. What I've got in the Beast (2002 Dodge) Quadzilla Adrenaline Stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) (7 x 0.010) +150 HP DAP injectors popped at 320 bar AirDog 165 GPH Note: the injectors are popped higher for two reasons to aid in good fine mist spray that vaporizes better. The second reason is long life of the injectors being there popped higher this gives more time before the pop pressure falls below 293 bar (4,250 PSI) which is the minimum. 327 bar (4,750 PSI) is the max. Get a feel for flat ground cruising at 55 MPH... This is due to proper ratio. I'm running 3.55:1 axles with 245/75 R16 tires which changes the final to the ground to 3.69:1 making very easy to get the power to the ground.

Just fill in the blanks the best you can. Basically the business name, website URL and phone number are required. If you do a bit Google searching you can find the rest. Some vendors do have eBay, Amazon, and other marketplaces.

Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078JJNMXH?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

@LorenS you might wanna add LMC truck to the vendor list. (hint hint hint)

You have plenty of time to hang out here replying to posts.

If your missing the second connector you going to have to swap in the highline wiring harness and high line central timer. Being there is security controls your most likely have to flash the entire system to accept the new central timer and its enhanced features. Vehicle security, key fob door locks, steering wheel stereo controls, and the overhead computer. Just a heads up with information.

Most loose the tailgate bushings from tailgate removal. Yeah they are plastic but they do last quite a long time as long as your careful not to loose them when removing the tailgate. The rubber pads might be a bit tougher but check LMC truck they seem to have all the bits and pieces.

Yup its called "limited pedal". It is typically the the PSG and it control of the fuel pin correctly or the PSG is not listening to the CANBus correctly. Double check and see if there is any error code to give any more clues on what is the cause. Might check for excessive AC noise being I'm going to guess this truck doesn't have the W-T ground wire mod. Being excessive AC noise is known to cause PSG failures too. More or less it could be your alternator and the bad ground to the ECM/VP44 that cause the PSG to fail. Sad ot say your most likely going to need to replace the VP44 but make sure to deal with the AC noise before installing the new VP44. So I would do the W-T ground wire mod then have the alternator tested and replaced. Then purchase a rebuilt VP44. This will insure the new pump will have a happy long life.

Warm up timing doesn't really count being the timing offset is controlled by IAT and ECT temperatures. Colder the IAT and ECT the more timing will be given to aid in getting to the fuel to vaporize and go bang.

Back to what I was say have the injectors pulled and pop tested and see. I did an article a while back on how to clean them. The bad part is not being able to measure pop pressure.

No kidding... Stay down and let it heal...

450 PSI is good. Might check valve lash but even with your numbers sounds good. I would have them replaced if the injectors are plugged up or damage. You could pull the injectors and have them pop tested at a local injector shop.