Mopar1973Man

I'll sell mine for 30 dollars. See what you can do. But it will be here I've got an entire case of these diodes.

I only worry about the hold down cap at 89 in/lbs.

Got a box load of those left.

Let get home ill show what I've got but I do have your diodes.

Always the crossover tube first then the hold down next.

I normally pull the cables and bring them in. The only trouble is the 2002 list you have to back up to 2001. Same cables but they list. I use NAPA for most of my common stuff. Since I'm a business I can use NAPA prolink and can order parts myself, all parts are shipped on Tuesday morning.

Just jumped on my NAPA ProLink and here is a bunch of cables.

I just got a set a NAPA last year. Check over at Doorman I've seen them listed.

Give @Genos Garage a shot there our vendor on the might have what your looking for.

From the battery to the block on either side. I only measure 0.003 volts. If it not low then you need to change your ground cables not add a parallel cable. Parallel cable will only mask the issues of bad cable(s). I say fix the problem don't mask it with other added grounds. Another way to test hook jump cables between the negative ground and the block and check the voltage drop again. In the 9 different trucks I tested I got no difference in reading adding extra ground to the block or between batteries. Like most think I only work ony truck. Not true I've got lots of Cummins trucks I work on from ugly to super bad ***.

True. Because it cavitation and over working the same fuel. Still in all the the return from the head is the hottest fuel being its heat to the same temperature of the head.

Too much walking in cheap boots. @Honey Badger has manage to reset them but I was screaming when she did. I took part of the day of and slept in this morning. Im able to walk with a limp but walking.

Final ratio means the world to MPGs also the rotational mass. More rotational mass and improper final ratio you'll never reach the MPGs I do.

Be careful with Cummins OE they don't last long and may split apart. Cummins doesn't manufacture thermostats.

Umm. No. That sucks with the humidity. We topped last check at a 103°F the lost power for 3 hours. Here I am.

Stock fuel filter still being used. So what intake manifold is typical fuel will follow. Then your drawing out of the sender basket which has all the hot return fuel from the head. I draw out of the tank, away from the sender basket.

Remember the ECM is still damaged, and the damage is done. Wiring mods will only insure your rebuilt ECM will not be damaged. You will continue to have issues.

All I can say is it feels like I'm walking on a glass shard in my foot. Or better yet like someone is driving a spike through my right foot. Painful.

That's a ND alternator. I've got diodes for that in my garage.

I'm glad to be home. Side note on the this trip is I'm going to throw my boots out. with all the walking I did and driving I managed to dislocate 3 toes on my right foot and 2 on my left foot and @Honey Badger managed to get my left foot doing gong and relocated. My right foot and still very sore but it was super painful to get the one toe back in. I'll be slow and hobbling around for a few days.

I prefer ND over the Bosch alternators because there are much easier to rebuild being Bosch you have to solder all the diode by hand. ND diodes are as a pack that you just bolt in.

Actually it's part of the inspection according to the Dodge FSM to inspect the fan blades and the rivets that hold them on a scheduled inspection. I don't remember the interval but yes it does happen. Just like I've seen harmonic dampeners throw the outer ring because no one check the rubber and the alignment tick marks.

Might check the thermostat might have a fan switch for auto/on. The OE thermostat had a fan auto or lo fan or hi fan. The new thermostat only had auto or on so I picked the hi fan leads for the on position. Thermostat wiring is all 12V wiring.

Well to add to the story we made back to Idaho but that piece of crap Ford died again in the middle of of construction in Caldwell ID managed to get it started again. Then dropped of the Interstate and headed towards Parma ID to get Minnie (minivan) we picked up 50 in fuel. Had troubles getting it started again. Got it running made it to Parma Rd and it died again fought with it for another hour my buddy @MUDDY came to help. Finally I got it started again and drove it like a race truck to get over the grade to Muddy's place. We unhitched and struggled to start it again and park it out front. Yesterday Uhaul came and towed it off. I can promised everyone here I will never own a Ford product they are completely junk vehicles. Oh the other problem every time I was dealing with bone heads on the road it was ALWAYS a Ford. Stupid people. Just had one yesterday stupid Ford gets in the passing lane and slows down. As for Beast I ran back to Parma ID with Beast and haul @First Diesel Middleton RV back here. Beast was a pleasure to drive and tow Mike's RV back to my place. All the muscle to climb grades and cold A/C. Always remember when your having troubles with a vehicle look on the members map and see who is around you and should be able to find some help through the website.

Yup I would send the ECM off to @Auto Computer Specialist and let them fix the ECM. Then I would suggest pulling you alternator have it bench tested for AC ripple. Then if you replace the alternator make sure to have the new one tested I've seen new in the box that are bad. Then I would go over to the article section and do the W-T ground wire mod. As for the APPS I would replace with a Timbo's APPS it has no voltage to set or electronics completely mechanical throttle sensor.