Mopar1973Man

No. There is no way to deal with the governor for shifting you have governor pressure sensor and the governor solenoid that controls the pressure. You would have to have both ECM and PCM reflashed to operate correctly

I do not use sealant anywhere OE didn't use sealants. I would of considered replacing the tappet cover with a 12 valve tappet cover. This way you ditch the crappy stock crankcase vent in front.

Create an article from the tidbit. You can always edit it later and add on.

I'm still not a fan of a linear ramp up of full from defuel state right up to max fuel. This is not a efficient fuel ramp because you always will seem to be ramped up power mode which typically does end up adding more fuel constantly might be slightly but it is. Best for economy purpose you need a defuel zone for building boost and controlling smoke. Then the realm where the truck normally cruises at highway speeds should be at 100% stock fuel for economy purpose. Then above that cruise zone you can ramp up linear to 150%. This way your more or less floating on the stock ECM fuel map but when power is needed then it ramps up. / __________________/ / / I know this isn't to scale. But basically that what the fuel table should be for economy purpose. Remember don't try to build a performance tune in a economy tune it WILL NOT work. Now on a performance tune yes you would want to ramp up as fast as possible. This why Quadzilla is a great tuner you can build as many tunes as possible to fit every thing you may do with your truck.

That was one of my hang up cruising 30 MPH through Council, ID every morning hit 30 MPH in 4th gear and it would buck horridly being it was right at the 1,200 realm and also if the 1,500 band was 14 or 15 degrees is would buck really bad. Now it very slight at 13 degrees. But still feel the 1,200 point where the timing retards (ECM control). This why I suggest 13 degrees for the manual transmission where on a Auto they don't di low like that so you can run 15 degree on the 1,500 band.

Actually its 1,200 RPM is the breaking point where the Quadzilla hands back off to the ECM. At that point the ECM is back in control so as long as the RPMs are above 1,200 RPMs then the Quadzilla is still handling both timing and fuel management.

Install just the way it is. Then first pedal application will break the straps.

(Shaking my head)

PCM disables the ECM from starting when the keyless is in locked mode. Just the door lock control in just part of the central timer.

More you increase the cruise timing the lower the EGTs should be. But keep in mind the negative torque. Typically cruise is near 2k so you need about 19 to 21 degrees at 2k cruise RPM.

At least Beast I've always lube door latches with motor oil since new and still opening correctly. No latch issues.

Remember if you do a leveling kit make sure to do it right. Change out the control arms for adjustable so you get caster angles correct and adjustable track bar to get the thrust angle correct.

The only way to spool turbo faster is retard the timing either change the 1500 to a lower starting say 13 or try Low PSI timing reduct go higher on the scaling 50 to 75 roughly. Retarding the timing should blow more fire and expanding gases at the turbine. Once boost is built then it should flip back to more advanced timing when cruising.

After my 10 mile round trip hike up French Creek. Then consider the fact I walk nearly 3 miles every day in just what I do for a job. I've also got a mountain bike 21 speed with aluminum frame. I ran around on that back when I was 253 pounds. Sure enough after a year of cruising Ontario - Payette which was like 15 mile trips. I lost a lot of weight. Today I'm 215 pounds. My longest ride was 40 miles from Lake Fork, ID to McCall and around Payette Lake and back to Lake Fork.

Basically the cross over tube needs tightening first so the injector can move to self align. Then you can tighten the injector hold down to 89 in-lbs. Matter of fact is just replaced my injector body o-rings because after the head was service last the o-rings where bit small and injectors fell into place. This was possibly the loss of prime issue. Find out this morning when I start it up. Only took an hour to do this.

I've got a clients truck in now I got to do a bit of glue work to fix the broken plastics and get the fasteners to hold the panel correctly. I hosed all the pivots and linkage with straight motor oil and it loosen up quite a bit but I got to re-adjust the linkage because the inside handle isn't working quite yet. (Too loose).

Let us know we are here to help ya...

For most of my daily driving I run level 2 being its got more than enough power to handle most passing and highway travel without being under-powered. If you wanted just a touch more take level 3. I'll admit today I cranked up the Quadzilla to level 7 and stood on the throttle and was frying the tires off the back. Just finally got to doing the o-ring on the injector bodies to fix the hard morning starts. (losing prime). As for frying the tires... There is a reason I went smaller there is less torque trapped in the driveline with smaller tires and can overwhelm the tires and let it loose. Bigger tires will grip hard and driveline and transmission damage can happen. Like I said the combo of the 150 HP injectors and the Quadzilla is a lot of power when using wire tap. Remember I broke my transmission 3 times now. First was on 75 HP injectors (Vulcan Performance) and Edge Comp broke the mainshaft. Then broke 5th gear at 80 MPH on the interstate coming back from Boise. Then my last one I broke the input shaft and countershaft just cruising 65 MPH to Lewiston, ID. This is one of the few reason I run level 2 mostly and I've got my limits set rather low so not to let the Beast loose.

For door linkage I highly suggest motor oil or something that is going to hang around awhile. WD-40 or other products could be washed off short time.

Ummm... With everything your planning on buying you going to be closer to 500 HP to the ground. I'm running 7 x 0.010 DAP injectors with a small tweak of popped at 320 bar instead of 310 bar. Quadzilla with my Economy tune is giving me a good 500 HP to the rear wheels with a Hx35/40 turbo. I just lost my hybrid turbo (bearings wore out). Now I'm back on stock HX35W turbo and still running good super low EGT's. Super high MPG topping out at 28.04 MPG. Zero smoke... Look at the odometer vs the fuel gauge... Leave it stock turbo and stock injectors. Then just add the Quadzilla. That will put you at your goal 350 to 400 HP being the Quadzilla is capable of 180 HP by itself. What I've got in the Beast (2002 Dodge) Quadzilla Adrenaline Stock HX35W turbo (54/60/12) (7 x 0.010) +150 HP DAP injectors popped at 320 bar AirDog 165 GPH Note: the injectors are popped higher for two reasons to aid in good fine mist spray that vaporizes better. The second reason is long life of the injectors being there popped higher this gives more time before the pop pressure falls below 293 bar (4,250 PSI) which is the minimum. 327 bar (4,750 PSI) is the max. Get a feel for flat ground cruising at 55 MPH... This is due to proper ratio. I'm running 3.55:1 axles with 245/75 R16 tires which changes the final to the ground to 3.69:1 making very easy to get the power to the ground.

Just fill in the blanks the best you can. Basically the business name, website URL and phone number are required. If you do a bit Google searching you can find the rest. Some vendors do have eBay, Amazon, and other marketplaces.

Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078JJNMXH?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

@LorenS you might wanna add LMC truck to the vendor list. (hint hint hint)

You have plenty of time to hang out here replying to posts.