Mopar1973Man

Still it all it a gauge provided, the data isn't accurate across the span. I can do the same between Quadzilla EGTs and ISSPro EGTs. There is always a possibly of differences between two guages. As for differences on EGTs is about 50 to 100 degrees varance at times even though both sensors are in the rear port an inch apart. Since the a-pillar is there I use it more.

Should watch NewsMax you'll find out all the athletes are complaining about conditions while in Beijing.

Most of that oil is sent to the shaft bearings and spray the chain with oil.

Kind of like my boost readings between ISSPro boost gauge and Quadzilla on the MAP sensor which is good to about 20 PSI after that it skews badly so actually on the ISSPro at 45 PSI I'm showing 69 PSI on the Quadzilla. Hence I know the accuracy of the stock MAP is worthless hence why I DO NOT display boost number on my Quadzilla. Changing the sensor does not fix that issue which ive already tried that too.

Just watching the news of the world on NewsMax which you can watch free on Pluto TV app. The whole mandate issues are all screwed up. Here locally we act like a normal day. Go to a larger city like McCall everyone is masked up. I still say if you want to wear a mask do it I'm not going to judge you. But all the stores that are doing private mask mandate is the problem. Like NAPA is normal store but go to Ace Hardware your forced to wear a mask. As for moving goods it shouldn't make any difference but when one goes sick doesn't mean shut down a entire company or business. That is happening even around here. So a teacher got COVID and they shutdown entire school and now you have all the kids at home. Then you got parents at home watching their kids and not working... messed up world.

Ummm when the smoke is boiling out of the tires yup. It is the right color. Typically has that burning tire smell.

Yeah without knowing the end of the line where it goes but being it was in the frame clip I'm going to say it was the rear brake line but was replaced on the bottom because the line runs into the hollow of the frame just at the start of the fuel tank.

That's my first guess is a old brake line being the new line is below I guess.

Ok, so it has a park sense as well. Other than that it gets the delay function and triggering the motor relay with the timer still in all I've not seen a central timer failure still.

Yeah I just did a tail shaft seal on a 2006 Dodge (not Thor) it wasn't too bad to do. Just the factory seal the outer dust cover failed and came apart but the inner seal stayed. Little digging at it, I got it out.

I'll be getting back to this project here in the near future being the snow will start melting off.

Difference... Smarty just take the stock ECM data and backs it all up to the Smarty Module for return to stock. All the factory limits still exist so the fuel table only goes to about 22 to 25 PSI. All your doing with a smarty making the throttle a light switch it will be 100% CANBus fuel by 30% APPS signal. More or less follows the stock tune fuel ramp just more fuel quicker. Timing follows the stock layout of the most part just adding timing on top. Kind of why I dropped the Edge Comp after going to +75 HP injectors because the timing was way off and created a smokey tune that was super hard to clean up. Not to mention no longer efficient tune for such injectors being the timing is way off and the fuel map is too heavy down low to give that torque response everyone loves. It the same note also brought down the EPA on us all. Now Quadzilla set up right doesn't pollute much at all and like I've bested my own highmark of 27.2 MPG (Edge Comp with +50 Injectors) to 28.04 MPG (Quadzilla +150 HP injectors) I'm living proof that you can have your cake and eat it too. Quadzilla you now injecting full fuel maps and timing maps and not using any stock information unless below 1,200 RPM then the ECM now takes back over and Quadzilla only monitors engine data. If you want to do timing like a Smarty just set all the TIMING PARAMETERS to 0 then go to MAX TIMING and set the amount of PLUS DEGREES you want on top of stock timing map. Stock map is OK to use with stock or RV275 Injectors after that you should seriously consider custom timing. As for the fuel map you taking the stock fuel number and adding a percentage to the fuel number. Example engine load is 25% and the boost is 2 PSI for my so my programmed fuel for 2 PSI is 88% so the math looks like... Showing de-fueling 25% fuel desired x 88% fuel map at 2 PSI = Actual fuel commanded is 22% Showing increased fueling 75% fuel desired x 120% fuel map at 20 PSI = Actual fuel commanded is 84% Just to show WOT at 100% tuned... 100% WOT x 100% fuel map at 30 PSI 100% fuel map = Actual fuel commanded is 100% This is also why I'm one of the few that creates a stock fuel range in the middle of the map so you can have a more or less a streetable daily driver with little smoke and never cruising in a 101% or greater fuel map (Not Good). Then gang the wire tap and the CANBus fueling together at the same point. Right at the end of the 100% stock what ever PSI it start to rise that is the PSI you set to start the wire tap. Be sure ot set the max PSI for the wire tap in a reach able PSI so you don't short change the tune. More or less when I stand on it both the CANBus and Wire Tap hit together and the power is much more pulling you back in the seat in my case more times out of ten the tires break free and the blue smoke starts.

So in a nutshell you need to work on the timing more so. That is what will make or break a tune. Proper advancement at the right time and proper retard at the correct time too. When the timing is correct the Engine Load, EGT's, engine coolant, and the engine oil temp will be the lowest. Fuel map is not as important, being like my current tune at 65 MPH I float about 1 to 2 PSI back on my stock HX35W turbo, and that's about 84% to 92% fuel. Then I've got stock 100% all the way to 15 PSI. Again not as important as timing which will make or break a tune. Clues to give if the rattle of the engine goes away you most likely too retarded in timing advance one degree at a time till the light rattle is heard for the span. If a heavy rattle or tinny rattle you are most likely too advanced. Be aware that over advancement creates what's called "Negative Torque" in which the advanced timing started burning the fuel before the piston makes it to TDC so now the piston is being slowed by negative torque and losing power till it breaks over the TDC mark then the power comes out. So this is why I watch engine oil temp because advanced timing has more flame front in contact with the cylinder walls and engine oil will rise being the coolant around cylinders and the oil cooler rises. Again proper timing will have the lowest temps for EGT's and coolant, and the lowest engine load. If your IAT is below +80*F you might want to cover over the intercooler build the heat up it does help with efficiency and does not require more advanced timing to heat than cold air, so you don't have to constant re-tweak the timing for cold or warm air. Another clue, my MPG mode in the High idle kits was to hold the IAT at 143*F so it never dropped below +80*F so when it does drop below the ECM normally kicks in another +4* of advancement and retards again above 80*F. Warmer intake (80 to 140*F) temps actually do produce better efficiency on the tunes, colder than 80*F does hurt the efficiency.

Motor park reed problem, just need the wiper motor. Most likely the multi-function switch is wore out. Central timer is only used for the delay function as far as I know but never heard of a Central Timer failure for wiper delay. Being multi-function switch gets used and could have wear. I can also see if a bad wiper motor drawing too many amps cooking the central timer like the whole PCM voltage regulator issue. Still in all the years of working on these trucks I've never seen a bad central timer yet.

I get it since I'm at the end of my family line. Both my parents are gone. I've got no children and don't plan on trying now at 51 years old. Never been married. I've got no brothers or sisters. No other relatives left that I know of. I can really come to grips with what you're saying. Being I'm already out here in Idaho and no family left I still have days where I want to just vanish from people, phones, internet, etc. I more or less have my adopted families now. Like my neighbors keep an eye on us and we do the same for them. I've got some friends down the road that call to pester at least daily some times. I'm not alone but after realizing your family is gone and so is the responsibility, then you find out you have a bit of freedom. you'll come back out of your shell again. It's taken me a while to figure out who I am once again after taking care of both my parents since 2004 which is 16 years of taking care of my family. My Dad died of pancreatic cancer in 2004, then I moved back home to help my mother till 2020 when she passed away. Then get hit with COVID and locked down. So this coming summer is my time to spread my wings and find out what I want to do now. If you asked me if I would do it all over again. Sure I would I would do it all over again... That's what families do, they hold tight to the end...

Lets say I'm part of Idaho County Search and Rescue and I've not had a SARs call in quite a while. I typically work the southern end of Idaho County which happens to be the largest county in the state. As for missing people I'm not being called out for much. I've even got my monthly test pages on text message, phone call and email. So I know I'm part of the system yet.

If its OK, I would consider powder coat more so because of heat. Powder coat would hold up much better vs rattle can paint. Just a thought... Gotta admit its a pretty spiny thingy...

Then your same federal government telling us that our vehicles are polluting and need heavier smog control. These USFS control burns or out of control forest fires pollutes more in ONE MINUTE than our trucks will in a entire lifetime. Why is the federal government allowed to turn the other way and say oh, "It is a a natural fire with natural ignition oh its not polluting." I look at the amount of forest around me that is completely burned up and gone. The amount of ground that nothing was replanted which is quite a bit. Then living through the fire and seeing how thick and choking the fire can get. We got the same thing we are not allowed to open burn after May 01 of this year but thats about the time everything dries out after the rainy season for us. Maybe thats why I've still got a mountain of debris in my lower yard.

This is why I do not suggest any sealants like silicone because most people don't know how to use it properly. When it over applied then it breaks off and ends up in the oil pickup screen yes I've seen a few plugged with silicone trash. 99% of our engine was put together with sealants. The only place is the gear case that is silicone. Even that is grey RTV.

My last timbo APPS lasted quite awhile not sure how many miles I would say over 250k being I got it just before @MoparMom went down with kidney failure. So in my case I did the same thing used cruise a lot but then once in the city lot of light to light driving though.

Nope. Done this quite a few times.

You don't want to see the gasket I made out of Napa cardboard label. Made in roughly 10 minutes and cost nothing. No sealant used. No leaks.

Buy a Flow meter then you cantest it yourself. CGOLDENWALL 1 inch Turbine Flow Meter Digital Fuel flowmeter for Water, Diesel, Kerosene, 2.65-23GPM/10-90LPM, 1" NPT Thread (1" Flow Meter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G9878DK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_Q0K3BDH1R5NRM5WY5SC6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I don't think it works that way but it would be nice. It horrid that there is this much homelessness going around but just got to look at our own government on why people are homeless.

Could you give more information on the Dave Paliadies pod cast.. Please...