Mopar1973Man

So the Quad doors are going to be roll down windows right? Or electric?

Curious, would you share the URL please?

Yeah Dodge bumpers suck for design. They look good when new but after years of sun and use the plastic tend to fall off the bumper after awhile.

As many times as I've started ISB Engines with the valve cover off I've not had then spray or squirt oil everywhere. Now the belt idea and the rags would be super helpful. Even just pulling the belt and leave it idle it would take quit awhile to heat up that block completely.

Yes you can run the engine with the valve cover off to inspect operation of the valves and everything. I doubt though you might not see the fuel weeping out with so much oil running around. I'm pretty sure if you call a injection shop and ask for a front seal for the VP44 you can get one. As for the o-rings on the injectors you can get those at DAP. I just bought a set for my truck being I'm still got hard start mornings yet on The Beast.

Oh fun, pull the turbo off that truck.

What if the solenoid is closed and no boost was reach the wastegate since the no fuse? Then asking what is max stock boost? 30 PSI I'm guessing? Currently it stays pretty close to 30 PSI as a max. Just depends on how I spike the boost pressure like I said its rare but can trip the overboost. Currently I would have to say the wastegate is working. Currently I've got "Thor" parked till I find the driveline vibration now. I'm not sure if its a u-joint or what yet.

All I can say I too embarrassed to even post photos of some of the stuff I work on. Its that rough and beat up. Ranchers and farmers are extremely rough on there vehicles out here and no where near you level of maintenance. Now like Doug's truck sitting in my yard he's a cargo hauler that is a very nice truck that is modified. He's taken really good care of his truck. Extra fuel filters. Upgraded injectors +100 HP and EFI tuner. Very nice. But this is rare out here for me. Again 99% are pretty rough shape and well used. Again this is rare for me to see nice vehicles around here that are already has the proper mod and care. Just done a new transmission and clutch on this truck.

That might be true but again 99% of the trucks I work on are not even maintained to my level that I think is at least OK. Again not my truck, not my money, it all the customer choice of what I do for a job on there trucks. 2004 did this last summer only had 140k miles wouldn't start injectors were washed out. Won't build rail pressure (stuck open) 2014 did this last summer only had 190k miles barely start and ran roughly really low MPG and growing a bit of oil. Past time... I seen a 2005 Dodge that melted down cylinders 5 and 6 both with 112k miles on the injectors.... I can keep going. Currently... Up coming job. I got 2004 Dodge that is way gone now and owner is still driving on it and listening to it run. Wow! Remember 99% of the world doesn't keep up as well as you do. So the what I quote is real world experience.

Back when this all went down the error code would pop up randomly after awhile I just drove on it. New solenoid I bought from DAP and installed it seemed to work for awhile maybe not all being the fuses was missing. But it was capable of 30 PSI boost easy. After now figuring the fuse #6 out and getting a fuse in the socket now the P0243 code is over and done but once in a blue moon trip a P0234 over boost code with those +50 HP injectors.

Typically the high flow rate leak is the injection pump seal. As for low flow is stuck injector(s), cracked head, or leaking injector body o-ring(s).

Nope not really. If I creep on on it it will limit lower to 30 PSI. Jump on it I can spike it higher.

All I'll say is 99% of the trucks I work on don't have upgraded filtration, most don't even know to change the filter. With that said 100k to 150k miles on injectors.

With the error it would still make 30 to 35 PSI easy but with the CEL light on. Now the CEL light is off but possible to set the P0234 in a great while.

Just more thoughts and knowledge... Normal for at least manual trans it will hang for a bit above 800 RPM as you rolling up to a stop. Then come to rest at 800 RPM (+/-5). As for failed injectors if the engine load is at ZERO or near zero 1-3% range the injectors are most likely failing you. When they are this low or at ZERO this means the ECM is attempting to cut fuel as deep as possible to hold 800 RPM but its getting to the point it can't because injector pop pressure is too low.

Typically low pop pressure typically hangs higher than the standard 800 RPM. The only other thing then is injector body o-rings. If you go that far then while you got them out have then tested. At least verify. There isn't any change in smoke and no haze.

LMAO I gotta say it's neat little van. Runs good so far. Beaty well it's not beautiful looking. Carpets pretty dirty the back seat are fur covered by dog. Mopar Van to generic. I'm sure it will name it's self soon. I'll do something with it that will be beyond the norm.

Ok gang. Put a bit of effort into the mini-van and every time I went to town and stopped anywhere the oil light would come on and chime. I ordered a cheap $20 NAPA oil pressure switch for the light. When I got under to look at the oil filter and the oil pressure switch the switch had been leaking and dropping down the lower radiator hose. After fighting that red lock tab to get it unlocked and remove the plug. You can see the oil been leaking out of the switch inside the plug. Now installed the oil pressure switch and not seen the oil light all day. Yes the light comes on for a bulb check still at start up. Now I dug even deeper and considered if this didn't fix the problem I would get a oil pump rebuild kit and rebuild the oil pump. While the pan was down I could even do all the main bearings and con-rod bearings. I found bearing kits for cheap. The best part there is nothing in the way of the pan so you could do that job super easy. But since the oil pressure switch was the answer no need to go that far now. I do need to do a few other things. Find a few used tires for the mini-van and fresh windshield without cracks in it. Other than that its a nice little mini-van it drive pretty good even on ice with wore out tires. That front wheel drive does really well. Now I'm thinking I need to name this little "beater with heater" as someone pointed out.

Plastic tubing for the vacuum lines is well rather brittle at this stage of life on any truck. It would be a good idea to replace all that plastic tubing along the cowl and down to all the device with air brake tubing. This stuff is pretty tough and works for vacuum just as well. Just need some rubber vacuum hose to fit over the air brake tubing to hook back up to nipples on devices.

Places for fuel to enter the oil... Injector body o-rings Cracked head Bad injectors (wore out or stuck open). VP44 front seal failed (excessive fuel pressure) So that being said. How many miles on the injectors if there is over 100k miles on them time to replace. If the injectors have that much mileage on them it very possible for the body o-ring to be seeping fuel back up in the top of the head. If you had 20+ PSI fuel pressure its possible to blow out the VP44 shaft seal. I know people here will tell of stories of being between 20 to 30 PSI with no issues but it does happen to blow out possibly on a weak or wore seal. The high idle shows me the injectors are wore out and popping to early and lower in pop pressure. So that would be my first thought is to change injectors or at least have what you got tested and re-popped to stock 310 bar again. Bottom line is 293 bar and thing start getting well sloppy injector wise.

I should sell mine being it sitting under my deck rusting away.

With my BlueTop I'm enjoying driving my Cummins more so being I've got a Quick Ratio steering box. This can only be done on stock or smaller tires which I've got. I'm way impressed with quick ratio over a stock box way tighter feeling and quick reaction out of the steering. Comparing mine to other customers rigs mine feels factory fresh like the day I bought but just a touch better. I stayed with Blue Top because of the case is still a sagnaw. Really easy to rebuild and adjust later on. I've gotten over 350k miles on my stock box before the input seal failed. Yeah this means you need to do fluid flushes every 30k miles.

I've done local road trips on a 1983 Honda Goldwing 1100cc. I enjoyed it for a short time till the head gasket blew.