Mopar1973Man

Knowing that then you ratio is 3.67 to the ground which is good. With 265mm of tread face you should stick pretty good and hold more power than I could just be aware because more traction more stress on driveline stuff. Another reason I like 245s or the 235s I ran previously less rotational mass, less power required to roll. Point of reference my current setup on chip coated asphalt I can't spin even with wire tap. Smooth asphalt with wire tap could break loose. Again I normally don't run wire tap but level 2 for daily. On level 2 or level 3 is very safe and be very rare to spin unless it wet or snowy. Between 3.69 ratio to the ground and 245s it does very well less rotational mass and high MPG be no one has caught my 28.04 MPG highmark yet. Catch me if you can. It's the bump of power when the wire tap and Canbus cross 15 PSI it will hit pretty hard on level 7.

Time to give @Auto Computer Specialist a call.

@JAG1 drove all the way from Oregon for me to do his injection pump. All I can say is don't let him near the bolt pile. He'll make sure to hide bolts in the intercooler.

This is the way I roll. I jump in with both feet and get after it. Time is limited, weather is another limit so focus and knuckle down and get after it.

Time to do the diagnostics for the current codes. Time to test the system and follow the article. Remember companion module is the ECM.

Not good. I would rather be able to have as much power as I wished and be able to reach that tire spin point than breaking driveline or transmissions. The idea of increasing power without tire spin can be very damaging typically transmissions explode or transfer cases. I've seen both locally. Typically big oversized tire with ratios lower than 3.55 to the ground. Difference im 3.69 to the ground more torque but a point of release at the tires. Yes ill admit I've broke a few transmission too but I didn't blow the case like I've seen on few other trucks again common mistake big oversized tires and transmission explodes manual or autos doesn't matter.

Same here, I'm only spinning 30 inch tires.

As for @First Diesel Middleton he's a heck of a guy. Had me drive his truck around doing a few things personal for him. Then he takes me out for stellar lunch. Ok after filling my gut and heading back to his place. Started with the drive line and pulled the driveshaft out and started pressing u-joints out. Ran out with @First Diesel Middleton to get a fan belt and u-joints. Came back and tore apart the cooling system nearly all the face of radiator was plugged with oil blowby. Washed the radiator all up. Change the thermostat and water pump since the radiator was out. Then new hoses and band clamps (yup he wanted bulletproof). End up getting back to the driveshaft got 2 of the u-joints out fairly easy with my press but the last one was a Spicer U-joint. Man I hate them. I tried pressing one cup out but the trunion too fat to push the cup out. I fired up the hot wrench cut trunion out and smacked the cups out with 1/2 extension and my 6 pound hammer. Cleaned up the holes put it together. About that time wind picked up. We packed up and went to dinner awesome Irish pub. Good eats. Them headed back to his place died on his couch. New day. Went out and got breakfast and quickly grab 3 gallons of coolant. Went back to his place and then finished up the cooling system and filled with coolant go to start it... Nope no dice. No Bus on the cluster and no lift pump. Test fuses and had +12V power at both ECM and PCM. Now when I was testing grounds the ECM ground failed. Got it fixed up and repaired and started it up. Ran great once again.

Thank you sir it was a pleasure to do the job for you.

Not that I know of. That was the problem with the one I've been talking to it shifts early and in top gear at 70 MPH is only 1,600 RPM so he's stuck manually shifting all the time because shifting early to the next gear and running too low in RPM in top gear hence the final ratio is wrong too. Now this makes it complex for tweaking a Quadzilla tune on this truck too because of the ratio and cruise rpm.

Not really I've neen helping a gent with an Allison conversion and final ratios are a wrong, shifting to early, etc. Making Quadzilla tuning difficult. Not one I would suggest.

No. There is no way to deal with the governor for shifting you have governor pressure sensor and the governor solenoid that controls the pressure. You would have to have both ECM and PCM reflashed to operate correctly

I do not use sealant anywhere OE didn't use sealants. I would of considered replacing the tappet cover with a 12 valve tappet cover. This way you ditch the crappy stock crankcase vent in front.

Create an article from the tidbit. You can always edit it later and add on.

I'm still not a fan of a linear ramp up of full from defuel state right up to max fuel. This is not a efficient fuel ramp because you always will seem to be ramped up power mode which typically does end up adding more fuel constantly might be slightly but it is. Best for economy purpose you need a defuel zone for building boost and controlling smoke. Then the realm where the truck normally cruises at highway speeds should be at 100% stock fuel for economy purpose. Then above that cruise zone you can ramp up linear to 150%. This way your more or less floating on the stock ECM fuel map but when power is needed then it ramps up. / __________________/ / / I know this isn't to scale. But basically that what the fuel table should be for economy purpose. Remember don't try to build a performance tune in a economy tune it WILL NOT work. Now on a performance tune yes you would want to ramp up as fast as possible. This why Quadzilla is a great tuner you can build as many tunes as possible to fit every thing you may do with your truck.

That was one of my hang up cruising 30 MPH through Council, ID every morning hit 30 MPH in 4th gear and it would buck horridly being it was right at the 1,200 realm and also if the 1,500 band was 14 or 15 degrees is would buck really bad. Now it very slight at 13 degrees. But still feel the 1,200 point where the timing retards (ECM control). This why I suggest 13 degrees for the manual transmission where on a Auto they don't di low like that so you can run 15 degree on the 1,500 band.

Actually its 1,200 RPM is the breaking point where the Quadzilla hands back off to the ECM. At that point the ECM is back in control so as long as the RPMs are above 1,200 RPMs then the Quadzilla is still handling both timing and fuel management.

Install just the way it is. Then first pedal application will break the straps.

(Shaking my head)

PCM disables the ECM from starting when the keyless is in locked mode. Just the door lock control in just part of the central timer.

More you increase the cruise timing the lower the EGTs should be. But keep in mind the negative torque. Typically cruise is near 2k so you need about 19 to 21 degrees at 2k cruise RPM.

At least Beast I've always lube door latches with motor oil since new and still opening correctly. No latch issues.

Remember if you do a leveling kit make sure to do it right. Change out the control arms for adjustable so you get caster angles correct and adjustable track bar to get the thrust angle correct.

The only way to spool turbo faster is retard the timing either change the 1500 to a lower starting say 13 or try Low PSI timing reduct go higher on the scaling 50 to 75 roughly. Retarding the timing should blow more fire and expanding gases at the turbine. Once boost is built then it should flip back to more advanced timing when cruising.