Mopar1973Man

OMG that is pretty...

Just to show off my custom addon to my desktop. Something Windows can't do at all but Linux can do. I can monitor in real time my server which is up near Michigan. Completely remote server compared ot me in Idaho. I can display the amount of RAM used, swap space, CPU loads. This program is called Conky. You can write your own scripts to display any information you want to the desktop. You can even tweak it so a side panel is never covered like my older script did. No matter what you did with a window it wouldn't cover the display. This go around I left it a normal desktop that does cover. Nice part I can see anyone that logs into the server display even the hosting techs show up so I always know who is on the server including myself which is displayed and IP does match my machine locally. (blurred out) As you can see I'm always watching over the server and paying attention to performance metrics and making sure you all have nice fast connection the best I can for my end. As you can see my local machine is the far left and the shorter display on the right is M73M.

Articles, articles...

Like I'm learning you might want to get a hold of the Dodge FSM and then look up all the ports used in the fuse panel and what size fuse goes where. I found a few with a larger fuse stuffed in the port. A few I found where missing a fuses completely which explains why some thing never worked right. Like I did with Thor I got the 2006 Fuse list and ran right down the list and made sure each port had a fuse that was hook up and tested good. Then I found the fuse I was chasing anyways for the tail lights. Next step would to be re-test against my RV when the snow stops again.

Just a friendly reminder... Take the time to inspect your brakes and all the hardware. Like myself I dove in to fixing my parking brake thinking there was a problem there but really just needs adjustments now and then. During the time of pull the calipers off I found 3 of the 4 slide pins rotten, one rubber boot was so wore it separated in half from the rough rust rubbing on it. Fix is easy I got a set of slide pins and boots coming this morning just gotta head to McCall ID to get them. Only +16*F and snowing this morning. Oh Fun.

They have been mounted like that over 350k miles and I only replaced 1 bulb so far in that time. Currently the rely is rotten needs replacement and the last time I put the trans in I didn't hook up my switch again want to change my hook up too.

Sweet ride even my color... That blue caught my attention.

Why? It is already tapped in a 3/4 hole in the manifold. But hey I did that on 2006 being that plug was not present for CR heads.

Same set up here the reverse light are also halogen and my relay is tucked back up in the left side taillight high last a bit longer but still gives up fast. I get my power from the 40A +12V out of the 7 pin trailer plug. I've got a pair of halogen aircraft landing lights on the rear axle. You do not want to place big halogens on the the violet lead it will burn the reverse switch and the wiring up being the two bulbs I run at 16.6 Amps for the pair. Now if I swapped for LED floods I could then most likely swap over as long as the new set is low current draw. I would still be careful to swap the stock bulbs to LED as well to open up the amp window a bit more for additional draw. I've also got a switch on my overhead console to force the reverse lights on as well so I have a flood of light during hitch up of trailers.

Absolutely. Keep all sensors and the engine wiring and ECM and PCM if possible. Sensor like @Great work! posted can be swapped easy enough. Alway just that weird little something you should of kept and didn't.

Shouldn't have to for standard little things like lights and small accessories. Large accessories like a winch should be wired directly to the battery. Yes, you can ONLY if the alternator lead is NOT hook up in the PDC any longer and the W-T ground wire mod was done.

Yes there should be teeth showing. If not you not going to be able to slip a pitman arm puller up there to get the pitman arm off. So what you'll have to do is unscrew the sector adjustment and beat the output shaft out. Just a huge pain in the ... I had one of these last summer and was piss off because the extra time involved to remove the steering box, reprime the system, reload with fluid and re-adjust the sector adjustment. You are fine... Leave it alone...

Final ratio plays a huge roll in good MPG's. 3.55:1 to 3.73:1 final to ground (calculating the tire size too) is the best range to hang in for most here.

Drop that boost bolt in the trash... Boost plug just forward of the MAP sensor its a 3/4" pipe plug just bush it down from 3/4 to 1/2 inch then get a bass bushing for 1/2" to 1/8" come out with a PTC fitting for your tubing.

I can change the tire size enough to make mine appear to be any any gear I wish. Being the PCM does not communicate gear position or even able to detect it there is no way for the ECM to have that info either. Kind of like the MPG display is all calculated from the fuel data, offset percent, and speed data. Accuracy of any calculated info requires the info in the setting to be accurate so the calculated is accurate as well. Now another thing too a lot of people assume the timing value display is actual timing of the engine which is is while the timing piston is working but as soon as P0216 code is thrown you looking at commanded timing and the piston could be full advanced ot retard and still display timing commands as usual.

What?! No limo tint glass in that bad boy? I've gotta ask what did it cost for glass to be cut and tempered for the windows?

Like me perfect 2k RPM at 66 MPH. Then interstate is 2,450 ROMs at 80 MPH. Don't bother me one bit listening to that Cummins sing like a well oil machine. Like I said final between 3.55 and 3.73 is a good spot to be. Being Beast is 3.69 and Thor is 3.73.

Only 2 positions close outside air OFF and MAX A/C. The rest of the positions are open to outside air.

Biggest thing is buying the cable that is expensive.

Even for me I'm ready to load up the ATV for a back country ride soon but gotta wait for the snow to melt. Ugh.

Remember iQuad is only calculated for gear position based on tire circumference math not actual.

Very true. It weird you got vacuum to open the fresh air flap or vacuum was dropped the door blew open. If vacuum was dropped then it should be stuck on DEF mode. There should be a few vacuum motors fresh air is over next to the kick panel. Just gotta do a dash pull.

Best answer. Seriously I've seen people cut the old end off leave the black oxidation on the copper and hook up new terminals (crappy 2 bolt clamp style).

Correct. The older EV series is machanical and all it needs is a snubber at the tap point and hook up the gauge light to panel lights.

Then there are some of us still got our factory battery terminals, no corrosion, and in good condition yet. Tell you the trick keep all exposed metals coated with engine oil. This includes battery hold down hardware.