Mopar1973Man

I get it since I'm at the end of my family line. Both my parents are gone. I've got no children and don't plan on trying now at 51 years old. Never been married. I've got no brothers or sisters. No other relatives left that I know of. I can really come to grips with what you're saying. Being I'm already out here in Idaho and no family left I still have days where I want to just vanish from people, phones, internet, etc. I more or less have my adopted families now. Like my neighbors keep an eye on us and we do the same for them. I've got some friends down the road that call to pester at least daily some times. I'm not alone but after realizing your family is gone and so is the responsibility, then you find out you have a bit of freedom. you'll come back out of your shell again. It's taken me a while to figure out who I am once again after taking care of both my parents since 2004 which is 16 years of taking care of my family. My Dad died of pancreatic cancer in 2004, then I moved back home to help my mother till 2020 when she passed away. Then get hit with COVID and locked down. So this coming summer is my time to spread my wings and find out what I want to do now. If you asked me if I would do it all over again. Sure I would I would do it all over again... That's what families do, they hold tight to the end...

Lets say I'm part of Idaho County Search and Rescue and I've not had a SARs call in quite a while. I typically work the southern end of Idaho County which happens to be the largest county in the state. As for missing people I'm not being called out for much. I've even got my monthly test pages on text message, phone call and email. So I know I'm part of the system yet.

If its OK, I would consider powder coat more so because of heat. Powder coat would hold up much better vs rattle can paint. Just a thought... Gotta admit its a pretty spiny thingy...

Then your same federal government telling us that our vehicles are polluting and need heavier smog control. These USFS control burns or out of control forest fires pollutes more in ONE MINUTE than our trucks will in a entire lifetime. Why is the federal government allowed to turn the other way and say oh, "It is a a natural fire with natural ignition oh its not polluting." I look at the amount of forest around me that is completely burned up and gone. The amount of ground that nothing was replanted which is quite a bit. Then living through the fire and seeing how thick and choking the fire can get. We got the same thing we are not allowed to open burn after May 01 of this year but thats about the time everything dries out after the rainy season for us. Maybe thats why I've still got a mountain of debris in my lower yard.

This is why I do not suggest any sealants like silicone because most people don't know how to use it properly. When it over applied then it breaks off and ends up in the oil pickup screen yes I've seen a few plugged with silicone trash. 99% of our engine was put together with sealants. The only place is the gear case that is silicone. Even that is grey RTV.

My last timbo APPS lasted quite awhile not sure how many miles I would say over 250k being I got it just before @MoparMom went down with kidney failure. So in my case I did the same thing used cruise a lot but then once in the city lot of light to light driving though.

Nope. Done this quite a few times.

You don't want to see the gasket I made out of Napa cardboard label. Made in roughly 10 minutes and cost nothing. No sealant used. No leaks.

Buy a Flow meter then you cantest it yourself. CGOLDENWALL 1 inch Turbine Flow Meter Digital Fuel flowmeter for Water, Diesel, Kerosene, 2.65-23GPM/10-90LPM, 1" NPT Thread (1" Flow Meter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G9878DK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_Q0K3BDH1R5NRM5WY5SC6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I don't think it works that way but it would be nice. It horrid that there is this much homelessness going around but just got to look at our own government on why people are homeless.

Could you give more information on the Dave Paliadies pod cast.. Please...

I was doing about 1,100 miles a week. So time spans will vary. Mileage will vary depending city vs highway use. Now not as much for me either.

Kick in a bit more for the APPS Sensor... 3 pins are the rheostat. +5V APPS Signal GND Then there is 3 other pins which is the IVS (Idle Validation Switches) Idle Throttling GND Now the stock APPS has a tag value of voltage on the back which is the point the logic chip flips those two idle validation switches. Only one leg at a time will be hooked to ground. If the throttle side is grounded then the ECM follows the APPS signal voltage. If the idle pin is grounded then all APPS voltages are ignored and the Cummins Idle Software is used. Some time ago someone on CF posted about doing voltage adjustment to fix shift issues and such. This went down a huge rabbit hole that had all kinds of bad results. Typically the end user attempted adjust to exactly that voltage and the sensor would rock back and forth between idle and throttling causing all kinds of other issues, idling high, shift changes, possible error codes. Hence why all documentation on the stock APPS sensor says "DO NOT ADJUST". I've removed a ton of these crappy noise filters and ground wire mods even the dealer today still doing. I will give it to @W-Tthe ground wire mod does indeed work very very well. I just done one not to long ago with shift issues had the BD noise filter and the APPS wire mod. This particular truck would not shift to 4th gear period. After pulling all the wiring mods off and returning pure stock electrical now it shift into 4th gear normally. I even informed the owner I needed to do a W-T ground wire mod soon to keep this straight. I even showed him on my own truck of what is removed and how its wired. I done at least a solid dozen W-T ground wire mods and 100% success rate too. Always a solid fix and no longer AC noise problems. Now as for APPS sensors I would only suggest the Timbo's APPS being its a completely mechanical sensor and there is NO ELECTRONICS. Life pan of the sensor is about 7 to 9 years of daily driver. Do bother with OE replacement, or Wells APPS both of these are back to using electronics to toggle the IVS to idle or throttling and back to fighting with adjusting voltages and people always screw that up. Timbo's you can literally install, start and drive without even adjusting or doing a APPS reset. I know this isn't optimal but I know it can be done. The whole voltage adjust is all about that IVS switches only on Wells and OE APPS its critical of the voltage where on the Timbo's is actually the bellcrank angle voltage isn't even a issue. As you see there is no electronics and the angle of the bellcrank will set the idle or throttling IVS legs. This why you could install and forget and never think about it again. Just when you do the install as instructed from Timbos you actually setting the slack space from the screw stop so your closer to the breaking point of the IVS.

Well I'm still on my way of fixing up my mini van. I just got my new tires for $380 installed and balanced. Really made it a better ride, smoother without the broken belt. So far I've only been running this mini van locally. Now with new tires I'm willing to travel now longer distances. No issues, no leaks, no performance issues. Just cheap tires but fresh rubber does better in the snow for control and just a bit better traction wise. Today I've got to haul out to Cascade ID let's see how it does.

Dang. We could use more snow. Just been cold.

Weird I live in Idaho and never heard of this. Might have to start packing the 9mm more...

Yes the brass sleeves are the bearings in the turbo both my HX35W or HX35/40 Hybrid use the same kit. The snap rings hold the brass sleeves in places. One on each side I will warn the pin holes in the clips are very very small. Make sure to tool up before starting. Yeah my first turbo rebuild make sure you really pay attention to all the parts your remove and where from, etc. Me I forgot one of the pieces for the thrust plate and you couldn't tighten the compressor without it binding up. Again make sure you paying attention all the way through if anything doesn't feel right don't force it, tighten to make it bind up, etc. Look over everything again be sure all parts are installed correctly you don't need to damaged parts. When its done that turbo should spin smooth and be just a bit stiff at first but after ran a few minutes on the truck the bearings will settle in and spin much better. The worse part is getting the exhaust housing unbolted carefully without breaking the bolts off, then getting the housing to separate to expose the tubine wheel. I've tried a few others in my time to rebuild and few times I hit a wall and couldn't because bolts are frozen bad, housing rusted together, etc.

I've seen several auto Cummins do this too but out here you let it use the top gear like yours it would be building mass EGT's because of the constant grades. Very inefficient to run that low out here because it would always have to be lugging climbing 1% to 2% grade. Thankfully most of the ranchers and such all have manuals it the retirees that have the Auto's for towing there RV's and toys. I just done 2 clutch job in this winter already on a 3rd gen and 4th gen. Autos, are not very common out here. You still find out the EGT's drop lower up near 2k RPMs vs letting it settle to the bottom like those do. All you need to do is watch the live data of Engine Load and the EGT's will tell you a bunch.

https://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Rebuild-Holset-HX35W-HE351CW/dp/B07Y2L4P5C Please don't freak out and say you need a Cummins OEM or Holset OEM rebuild kit. Being I've actually order and used a Holset kit for my HX35.40 and DID NOT come with everything this kit has. That was the mistake I did I listen to everyone stating you must have the official Holset kit to make it right. Well Holset kit is missing all the o-rings this one has, missing the return oil gasket, manifold exhaust gasket, and the rear housing gasket. I HIGHLY suggest this kit over the Holset being its much more complete. As you can see the Cummins kit is short also.. No manifold gasket, no oil return gasket, no discharge o-ring, lots of missing stuff that should be there but Hey its OEM crap once again PLEASE DO NOT BUY! Holset or Cummins kits, not good...

Nevermind on getting tracks on a vehicle.

I know the feeling. I'm hoping for a bit of global warming. I'm tired of the single digit morning here.

Oil residue. Look like bearing time.

3.55 gears and 35 tires are going to be a problem being the final ratio is 3.21 to the ground. Optimal is 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground. Be ready for a fight with EGTs till you change the gears to 4.10 in both axles which would be 3.71 which work work much better. I'm running 245s on 3.55 which is 3.69 final and capable of 28.04 MPG.

Your heading in the right direction. I would check all the CANBus wiring for issues. If there is connection issue it could drop the data and see gauges zero out. I've got to ask the DOM (date of manufacture) of the truck?

You need military style terminals then just copper lug the cables. I just done a 2006 Dodge back this summer and turned out good.