Mopar1973Man

Simply put... when demand volume is LESS than supply volume you will have stable pressure. Now when the demand volume is GREATER than supply volume then pressure will fall. Higher volume pumps with 1/2 inch plumbing will have better pressure stability. You have to remember that there is return flow in the VP44 as well which most forget in the pump volume. I can tell you that 20 MPG is roughly 2.5 GPH flow rate roughly speaking. That is what is burned at a cruise state. This mean majority is used for cooling and lubing the VP44.

No matter what if there is 100k to 150k miles on the injectors they should be replaced. Fuel filtration is the second part most of these trucks are still in stock form like mine so like a good AirDog 150 with 3um filters would be a good addition. Check for blow by unscrew the oil cap and see if it sits in the hole without blowing out. I hate to say it but CR engines just don't live as long as the older 24V 2nd Gens. Reason being is too many people continue to run bad injectors which wash out the rings and cylinder walls. Since it is Common Rail that means that if any injector isn't closing completely you will be spray fuel 100% of the time in the cylinder. There is no real change in exhaust smoke but you may notice a reduction in MPG's and possibly a gain in engine oil. Kind of like Thor with stock injectors managed to gain oil in 15 mile trip to town and back. Hence the change of injectors instantly. So if you keep good filters in the fuel system and change injectors before they are wore out you'll be able to have a long life out of tha truck.

I'll say I'm not doing too bad on the 3rd Gen 2006 Dodge 3500 SRW I've got. It's not a power house by any means but it does haul the tools to the job on a daily basis. The only upgrade I've done on Thor is +50 HP DAP injectors. Eventually I need to do a tuner that would help a bunch being the timing on stock engine is pretty retarded. Been able to hit about 18 MPG the way it is.

Sounds like your going to be pulling the head off for valve work. Might as well port and polish the head and add studs. Might want something good for a head gasket too. As I'm not much of a Cummins OEM fan.

Grab a test light then run all the fuses under the cover of the TIPM. Like myself a pervious owner blew a fuse pulled out and never replaced it. On you empty ports might want to verify if it got contacts and make sure it's filled with proper amp rating.

With a bit of effort I'm betting I can surpass Beast for MPGs. Being ive done nothing but changing oil so far. Need to check the air filter, spark plugs, new plug wires. Might even good to do a compression test. Still in all I've upgraded from Lil Red which barely got 14 MPG. Now ive got a gasser with at least 23 MPG without doing anything.

Talk to Carolyn Friend in Riggins 208-628-3441 I got you covered...

Nope. Actually it seems to be a good beater. Spend a food amount of time today cleaning it up. Gotta start looking into doing some wrench work on it. Monday source out a oil pressure switch. Maybe few screws for interior panels that are loose. Maybe a few valve cover gaskets. I know it needs a few used tires on the front.

I'm now the owner of a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L. It's got about 173k miles. The best part is it was given to me for free. Yup. It's not pretty but it runs. Since it sat all winter buried the doors or windshield leaked and got the carpet wet. The moisture in the cabin is creating weird gremlins. But it seems to have a bad oil pressure switch or the bearings are bit wore out. But runs good.

Interesting...

Still end up doing seal kits off and on to keep the oil leak at bay. If your going electric vacuum pump you should consider the full delete.

Fuel pressure helps with cooling keeping the overflow valve open. But if a owner is dumping in excessive amounts of cetane booster and injector cleaners then the fuel will be most likely lower in lubricity being most all products out there failed the lubricity test. Hence why I don't use any additives no anti-gel, cetane booster, or injector cleaners. The only ones that score good for lubricity is 2 cycle oil, Opti-Lube or 2% bio-diesel. Beyond that all others more or less failed or too little of gain ot be worth it price wise. Yes I see plenty of people adding more ot the fuel every time they hit the pumps in the winter time. Do your study of the fuels you use and find out. Like I did this years ago and found out my local fuel is like 48 to 50 Cetane. Don't need cetane additive. As for pour point its down to -20*F, well I don't need a anti-gel product, injector cleaners won't work anyways which I've proved years ago. So there is no reason to add any products for me. Even though this winter we seen minus weather here already. But my fuel temp never was below +20*F so I'm not worried one bit.

Fuel pressure sensor on the Quadzilla is fried most likely. You might review my electric gauge article... You should never just have the sensor screwed directly into the fuel line. You need some distance from the snubber to the sensor to allow for fade of pulse.

The older generation like myself does on a daily schedule I'm still supporting people face ot face even if I do make a mistake. I'll stand up and make it right with the customer. Heck yesterday I fixed up a truck that had a bad APPS sensor, then had a high idle idling issue which was his banks tuner screwing with the idle, then lost 4th gear on the transmission which was a bad noise filter added to the PCM. After all the wire work and making things right after someone at the Cascade Dodge dealer screwed up.

Someone did not install the caliper correctly. They twisted the hose before the install of the caliper. Most likely you need to replace both hoses now because the twist most likely damaged the hose.

Nope. The timing piston isn't responding in a timely fashion because it's partially or fully seized up. The only thing you can do is replace. P0216 code is typically caused by low lubricity fuels. Be aware a lot of fuel additivesdont make the grade for lubricity.

Biggest thing for heater performance is good flush and fill schedule of the coolant. Do n9t try to run to the max limit of any coolant. Don't believe any 100k or 150k life span. I typically change around 75k. If you wait too long the pH level will already eating the metals of the heater core and transferring the oxides of those metal to the cooler side as scale blooms.

Ok. Bit too expensive just to delete vacuum pump. Wow.

Still can't remove the 2nd gen vacuum pump because you need it for the power steering pump mount. 3rd gen has belt driven pump.

Not an actual value. Only calculated value.

Yes you can. I know for sure that @Auto Computer Specialist could do both ECMand PCM to any year between 98.5 to 02.

Hate to say it for the 24V trucks the Quadzilla is the best tuner. For myself I'm at a good 500 HP to the ground with 28.04 MPG high mark. Smarty Touch is the best for Common Rail butlooking towards 1,800 price tag for the full meal deal.

Have any of you seen these? https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/9006-dual-color-led-headlight-conversion-kit-w-fog-light-function-whiteyellow-4500-lumensset-fanless/5122/11671/

Measure with the engine running and the heater fan on HI. If it shut down the numbers will drift together in a short order.

Problem you can do like Auto Computer specialist but you going to have remove, box up and mail to Florida. Or you could do it the same day and just go to a dealer.