Mopar1973Man

Ha! I did the same thing ordered a set of brake shoes for the parking brake and found out I just needed to adjust them. It might be worth doing a quick inspect before ordering parts so you not buying stuff you really don't need. Like myself I've got a 125 mile trip to return my brake shoes which I'll just keep them for now.

You get what you pay for you want cheap your going to get cheap quality. I'll admit Autometer and ISSPro are expensive BUT you get the quality behind that price. Still to this day I would rather build using ISSPro EV2 series gauges over even the ISSPro EV (Mechanical). Being the is no tubing or live fuel in the cab. The electrical is extremely easy to set up and even daisy chain gauges together, huge bonus. The programmable relay option of the EV2 is cool for thing like trans temp gauge to have the relay to control your cooling fan. All USB adjustable inluding warning lights for out of range values. For example EGT gauge set the warning light for above 1,200*F temps. That way you will see that little red LED glow when temp are out of range and don't need to watch close just mind the light position and you'll know which gauge it is.

+11*F here this morning and with a wind of 8 to 12 MPH makes it feel like -2*F with a Wind chill of -2*F. Nope. I'm going to sit right here for a while longer before heading out to the shop to work. I don't get paid enough to work in that cold of temps. Ugh. Yeah, I'm going to move a vehicle out of the shop start a fire and move the other in for a new pan gasket. (1996 Chevy 1500 with a 350 CID). Sloppy job but gotta be done.

If diodes are damaged either replace the diodes or just replace the alternator. Might look up local alternator rebuilder for diodes.

Next part is why? I'm going to assume you haven't done the W-T ground wire mod. So now a bad alternator diode can pollute the system with AC noise. Being the ground for the ECM and VP44 run right next to the alternator charge line heading to the PDC. So you need to bench test the alternator replace it if noise issue is present. Then do the W-T ground wire mod which fixes this problem. Then install a new VP44 which won't be damaged by AC noise in the future.

Yup. Same here I've got the 3:4 ratio 64 MP camera as well. I typically keep the full or 1:1 mode. Samsung S21 Android.

This was one of the selling points of Linux for me. Everything can be administrated from a distance on Linux vs Windows that is pure Graphical interface and very costly bandwidth wise to work remotely for any windows product. Another fact, there is more Linux web servers in the world than Microsoft web servers, then Apple doesn't even have web server platform that I know of. Since Android is a version of Linux I can administrate most functions of the website on my cellphone. I'm not talking with a browser like Chrome but actually SSH (Secure SHell) which allows me to to give commands directly to the server over a secure encrypted port. Looking at the Database server for the website which I pulled up on my Samsung S21 Android on a terminal app while laying in bed drinking my morning coffee.

Yes. Just simple angle iron. pull a bolt out of the cover slip the angle in and bolt back up.

OMG that is pretty...

Just to show off my custom addon to my desktop. Something Windows can't do at all but Linux can do. I can monitor in real time my server which is up near Michigan. Completely remote server compared ot me in Idaho. I can display the amount of RAM used, swap space, CPU loads. This program is called Conky. You can write your own scripts to display any information you want to the desktop. You can even tweak it so a side panel is never covered like my older script did. No matter what you did with a window it wouldn't cover the display. This go around I left it a normal desktop that does cover. Nice part I can see anyone that logs into the server display even the hosting techs show up so I always know who is on the server including myself which is displayed and IP does match my machine locally. (blurred out) As you can see I'm always watching over the server and paying attention to performance metrics and making sure you all have nice fast connection the best I can for my end. As you can see my local machine is the far left and the shorter display on the right is M73M.

Articles, articles...

Like I'm learning you might want to get a hold of the Dodge FSM and then look up all the ports used in the fuse panel and what size fuse goes where. I found a few with a larger fuse stuffed in the port. A few I found where missing a fuses completely which explains why some thing never worked right. Like I did with Thor I got the 2006 Fuse list and ran right down the list and made sure each port had a fuse that was hook up and tested good. Then I found the fuse I was chasing anyways for the tail lights. Next step would to be re-test against my RV when the snow stops again.

Just a friendly reminder... Take the time to inspect your brakes and all the hardware. Like myself I dove in to fixing my parking brake thinking there was a problem there but really just needs adjustments now and then. During the time of pull the calipers off I found 3 of the 4 slide pins rotten, one rubber boot was so wore it separated in half from the rough rust rubbing on it. Fix is easy I got a set of slide pins and boots coming this morning just gotta head to McCall ID to get them. Only +16*F and snowing this morning. Oh Fun.

They have been mounted like that over 350k miles and I only replaced 1 bulb so far in that time. Currently the rely is rotten needs replacement and the last time I put the trans in I didn't hook up my switch again want to change my hook up too.

Sweet ride even my color... That blue caught my attention.

Why? It is already tapped in a 3/4 hole in the manifold. But hey I did that on 2006 being that plug was not present for CR heads.

Same set up here the reverse light are also halogen and my relay is tucked back up in the left side taillight high last a bit longer but still gives up fast. I get my power from the 40A +12V out of the 7 pin trailer plug. I've got a pair of halogen aircraft landing lights on the rear axle. You do not want to place big halogens on the the violet lead it will burn the reverse switch and the wiring up being the two bulbs I run at 16.6 Amps for the pair. Now if I swapped for LED floods I could then most likely swap over as long as the new set is low current draw. I would still be careful to swap the stock bulbs to LED as well to open up the amp window a bit more for additional draw. I've also got a switch on my overhead console to force the reverse lights on as well so I have a flood of light during hitch up of trailers.

Absolutely. Keep all sensors and the engine wiring and ECM and PCM if possible. Sensor like @Great work! posted can be swapped easy enough. Alway just that weird little something you should of kept and didn't.

Shouldn't have to for standard little things like lights and small accessories. Large accessories like a winch should be wired directly to the battery. Yes, you can ONLY if the alternator lead is NOT hook up in the PDC any longer and the W-T ground wire mod was done.

Yes there should be teeth showing. If not you not going to be able to slip a pitman arm puller up there to get the pitman arm off. So what you'll have to do is unscrew the sector adjustment and beat the output shaft out. Just a huge pain in the ... I had one of these last summer and was piss off because the extra time involved to remove the steering box, reprime the system, reload with fluid and re-adjust the sector adjustment. You are fine... Leave it alone...

Final ratio plays a huge roll in good MPG's. 3.55:1 to 3.73:1 final to ground (calculating the tire size too) is the best range to hang in for most here.

Drop that boost bolt in the trash... Boost plug just forward of the MAP sensor its a 3/4" pipe plug just bush it down from 3/4 to 1/2 inch then get a bass bushing for 1/2" to 1/8" come out with a PTC fitting for your tubing.

I can change the tire size enough to make mine appear to be any any gear I wish. Being the PCM does not communicate gear position or even able to detect it there is no way for the ECM to have that info either. Kind of like the MPG display is all calculated from the fuel data, offset percent, and speed data. Accuracy of any calculated info requires the info in the setting to be accurate so the calculated is accurate as well. Now another thing too a lot of people assume the timing value display is actual timing of the engine which is is while the timing piston is working but as soon as P0216 code is thrown you looking at commanded timing and the piston could be full advanced ot retard and still display timing commands as usual.

What?! No limo tint glass in that bad boy? I've gotta ask what did it cost for glass to be cut and tempered for the windows?

Like me perfect 2k RPM at 66 MPH. Then interstate is 2,450 ROMs at 80 MPH. Don't bother me one bit listening to that Cummins sing like a well oil machine. Like I said final between 3.55 and 3.73 is a good spot to be. Being Beast is 3.69 and Thor is 3.73.