Mopar1973Man

Yeah @Me78569 is another good Quadzilla tuner. I can too but im more economy designed not power.

438k miles later still not needed any of this stuff. The biggest thing why people need these pricey upgrades is typically because of oversized tires and lift kits. Once you mess with the geometry of the front axle its really tough to make it right again and keep all the mods like lift/leveling kits, oversized tires with large offsets. All these have impact on leverage of bearings, ball joints and steering parts. One of the few problems I still got to deal with on Thor being its got a 2 inch leveling kit and huge squatting problem now. Again previous owner screwed the geometry of the steering axle and thrust angles with just a leveling kit. 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 - Beast 245/75 R16 tires (On stock 2nd steel wheels) Blue Top Steering Gear "Quick Ratio" (Only can be used on 31 inch tires or smaller) Stock Tie Rods (Old Y steering) No lift or leveling kit. OE style Track Bar (NAPA) 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 - Thor 2 Inch leveling kit OE Track bar (thrust angle is incorrect since the track bar is not adjustable. Caster is incorrect being the 2 lift kit twist the axle to a more positive caster. Stock 17 inch wheel installed and ditched the 18 inch wheels. Stock 265/70 R17 tires installed gain quite a bit of power back and gained about 3 MPG. Ditched the 33 inch tires. Just tidbit to think on. Going from stock 31 inch (265/75 R16) to 37 inch tire your only going to gain 3 inches of clearance from the center of the rear diff. Remember every 2 inches of tire your only going to gain 1 inch of lift since the wheels are bolted at the center. So you only get half of the tires.

Just went out to verify the RV. Roof is untouched but a smaller limb tore up the A/C housing which is really brittle plastic. No problem I can fix that up and build a sheet metal housing for over the top. Yeah I got super lucky last night. I was heading to the bathroom for restock of my medi-set (vitamins and such) and heard the boom and was instantly choked up and couldn't talk. I just knew that limb had just broke off. Wasn't sure what I was going to see. When I went out to look at it and climb on the rear of the RV it was rest just a mere 2 inches off the top of the RV and never touched the roof. I mean seriously got lucky.

If you have the very expensive older DRBIII tool or the newer Star Scan Tool you can do cylinder shut downs for injection testing.

Just got lucky tonight a very large limb broke off the maple out back and just missed my RV roof by 2 inches. Limb is still hanging. Lost power again 3rd time this week. RV is untouched on quick look in the dark.

Pyro has to be in the rear port. 3 cylinder mode runs on 4, 5, and 6. 1, 2, and 3 are dead. Firing order: 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 Bold numbers fire, and the others are dead. Make sure the high idle on the Quadzilla is disabled.

Looks good...

Dropping the fuel tank is rather easy as pie. You could sling the fuel tank in two ratchet straps between the frame to just ease the tank away from the frame to gain access as well. Heck I just done a fuel tank for a AirDog 150 install and the brand need fuel gauge sender installed. Even with over 10 gallons of fuel in the tank I was able to pull the tank up in place with the same two ratchet straps and bolt it up. Easy... Don't both with a floor jack or anything else being as the fuel moves its need to be stable on both ends and ratchet straps do really well.

Well that was a wild ride. Early Tuesday morning the power went out at 2:30am. I got up and ran around the house shutting down all the un-needed stuff like Christmas Lights and some of the night lights. Went back to bed. The crazy part was getting up that morning to finding the power lines laying in my front yard. Hike over to my neighbors house to the south and there power pole is broke off near the base. Large red fir tree broke off and fell over on the lines breaking the pole off. From this point it pull the cross bar on my pole in my yard and broke a insulator off the top of the pole. The all the slack laid in my yard. Idaho Power was asking to drive across my yard I said no because we just had 2 inches of rain days earlier and knowing the truck are heavy. I told then they could build a road at the base of my driveway to access that ground. Jim Kern our local track hoe guy helped out and dug a ramp and sloped the ground but even that was too slick for the heavy trucks so even helping out with his smallish track hoe pulls both truck on the flat. More or less had a show out my window all day. I did the smarty thing and sneak under the lines with my ATV and help the rest of my friends. I stopped by Goerge's place and plowed out his driveway being he loan out his little tractor. Then went the other direction and found out Mark doesn't have any heat. So I rounded up a bit of hot coffee, some left over spaghetti, propane bottle and big buddy heater. Rode down to Marks place on my ATV and got him some heat and a hot meal. Came back and was plowing driveways and work areas. I'd have guys walking over and asking questions like do I want the old pole? Needless to say it was about 18 hours without power and internet. Now be aware I've got solar/hydro power so we just shutdown what things we didn't need on and like the inverter cover the fridge and freezer in the basement. No internet, no TV, no phone calls (Cell uses WiFi), nothing, it was a peaceful day being locked at home since there was no way to get my trucks out of the yard with power lines laying in the driveway. 18 hours later about 7pm we got power back on. The part that sucks big is this morning its only +15*F outside as a start and the sky cleared up last night... Ugh!

No way to control torque. Like in the Cummins truck we have all the cast iron block and weight in the nose to plant the steer tires in the snow. When you look at those wide tires and then the wight of the Telsa it just floating on top. Then with electric motors there is no way to gear up one to light the torque. Its just instant torque just touching the throttle on the Telsa. My 51 Willys Jeep was this way too. Horrid little rig for barely 4,000 pounds and too much power. Hence why I sold the Jeep years ago.

just looked at kelly blue book and the going normal price is roughly 10.8k to 12.6k for price.

Damn nice truck in very clean condition. Barely used and not even broke in yet...

Enuf said..

Rear drums you might have to pull the drums off and check the wheel cylinders. Then check the hoses back there for cracks or damage. Follow the tubing forward to the master cylinder checking for rust holes or cracks. Then on the front axles check the calipers for weeping piston seals. Again check hoses and follow the steel tubing up for rust holes or cracks. Hydro booster is the only thing inside. The master cylinder is on the front of the hydrobooster so it would leak in the engine bay.

I know that sucks to have to tear down so much just to make a adjustment to fit parts. I've seen this on a few other builds I've helped with. You know that the adjustment has to be done to make things right.

Brave... Wow... Brave kid.

Oh I finally got my first shot off at a spider in the shower downstairs. It works really good. Spider didn't last very long and only took one shot.

Yes. The blend door is is mechanical in the early and the later is electronic stepper motor. Rest is all vacuum controlled.

Yup. Your right that was part of for sure the wire was tucked away in such a manner it looked hooked up but not. I'm going to test it out this morning.

Got a box today in the mail thinking it would be my o-rings... Nope. I got... Thank you Jacob and crew @dieselautopower

Biggest stand is the HFRR for the UK is <460 HFRR compared to US at ~520 HFRR. As stated worst case US fuel standard... Typical UK fuel... Hence why the 2 cycle oil theory got started long ago by @dorkweed and myself...

2,860 feet...

Global Warming... December 11, 2021 Temperature 30*F, Humidity 97%, Pressure 29.75 inHg

@Stanleydon't forget to call me...

Get your radiator ordered up? Maybe for Christmas you could have it?