Mopar1973Man

I've seen several auto Cummins do this too but out here you let it use the top gear like yours it would be building mass EGT's because of the constant grades. Very inefficient to run that low out here because it would always have to be lugging climbing 1% to 2% grade. Thankfully most of the ranchers and such all have manuals it the retirees that have the Auto's for towing there RV's and toys. I just done 2 clutch job in this winter already on a 3rd gen and 4th gen. Autos, are not very common out here. You still find out the EGT's drop lower up near 2k RPMs vs letting it settle to the bottom like those do. All you need to do is watch the live data of Engine Load and the EGT's will tell you a bunch.

https://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Rebuild-Holset-HX35W-HE351CW/dp/B07Y2L4P5C Please don't freak out and say you need a Cummins OEM or Holset OEM rebuild kit. Being I've actually order and used a Holset kit for my HX35.40 and DID NOT come with everything this kit has. That was the mistake I did I listen to everyone stating you must have the official Holset kit to make it right. Well Holset kit is missing all the o-rings this one has, missing the return oil gasket, manifold exhaust gasket, and the rear housing gasket. I HIGHLY suggest this kit over the Holset being its much more complete. As you can see the Cummins kit is short also.. No manifold gasket, no oil return gasket, no discharge o-ring, lots of missing stuff that should be there but Hey its OEM crap once again PLEASE DO NOT BUY! Holset or Cummins kits, not good...

Nevermind on getting tracks on a vehicle.

I know the feeling. I'm hoping for a bit of global warming. I'm tired of the single digit morning here.

Oil residue. Look like bearing time.

3.55 gears and 35 tires are going to be a problem being the final ratio is 3.21 to the ground. Optimal is 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground. Be ready for a fight with EGTs till you change the gears to 4.10 in both axles which would be 3.71 which work work much better. I'm running 245s on 3.55 which is 3.69 final and capable of 28.04 MPG.

Your heading in the right direction. I would check all the CANBus wiring for issues. If there is connection issue it could drop the data and see gauges zero out. I've got to ask the DOM (date of manufacture) of the truck?

You need military style terminals then just copper lug the cables. I just done a 2006 Dodge back this summer and turned out good.

I can say the sound of the turbo was off while spooling. After seeing the rub marks yup I knew the bearings are done in the turbo. This stems from my parking brake being broke. So I'm shutting down so I can lock it down in gear. I'm pretty sure I've got a coked up shaft in the turbo.

@Krlspokane12 gotta ask what axle gears are running?

Yeah full track side by side or ATVs are really common out here. Not motorcycles with tracks. Ive seen a few passing on the highway but never send one running in the snow.

Nope. Maybe full track set up for ATV Honda Rancher... This is not mine... But wishing maybe... Addon: these are more than what I paid for the entire machine new... Ekkkk! https://atvtracksystems.com/product/honda-420-trx-foreman-rancher-rear-rigid-axle-2007-2013/

I wish. Truthfully when I get past some the stuff I'm doing I could hit the snowmobile rental shop in McCall ID and see if I can work a deal like I did 14 years ago and bought a Arctic CAT Panther Deluxe only paid $800 for it had a crack in the windscreen, I might do that again buy a nice one maybe next year?

but still its

Neat but out of my class of getting be an old fart.

Who built it?

Naw, too much issues for controlling. @Me78569he's already built a controller and done the entire turbo on his old 2nd Gen.

That excessive low end timing. That is about the only thing that causes the bucking issue in the low RPM's.

I must run in the wrong circles I've never really seen anything like that.

Yup sad to say the turbo I was running start sounding different on my last trip to McCall for parts and really low in boost pressure like 21 PSI. So this morning I pulled the truck in and start just looking and figured I would do just check the shaft play. Well that moves in and out just a few thousandth and the compressor wheel made contact with the housing I know the bearings are done. Thank Gawd that I kept my old stock HX35W turbo and just installed it back on. Back to making a solid 35 PSI of boost. Truthfully I would love to upgrade turbos but I know I'm going to need a new exhaust brake and install a PacBrake Inline on the 4 inch pipe. Then I could upgrade to a bigger turbo with better flow. Part that sucks I'll most likely have to tweak my tune a bit for a new turbo.

Different vehicle but my 99 Mini Van has two power points in the vehicle and both don't work well at all. The front one was a actual cigarette lighter. I normally plug in the Bluetooth/FM transmitter. Nothing happens, now with a light touch and barely any pressure turn the accessory slow counter clockwise and PRESTO it lights up and works. I know you should have to hang your jaw just right while doing a hand stand to plug in a 12V accessory to make it work. Tell you the truth I'm working my way away from cigarette lighter accessories typically you have the popping out on there own, bad connection, poor quality and burn up because the circuit has 20A fuse.

Grab a live data tool and monitor the TPS (APPS signal) and engine load. I wanna see if the something else is push the fueling command or is it just a poor quality APPS sensor. Unplug the Quadzilla main plug for a temporary moment and the turn the key on (not running) and measure the wire tap voltage be sure it same as the battery voltage. This will ensure the tap is good connection and that the VP44 is showing fuel solenoid voltage on the wire tap. Its working if battery voltage is at the wire tap. Another odd one that happen to me is verify the Quadzilla ground is solid I had my truck buck and do weird things when that bolt loosen up for the Quadzilla ground. AC noise does all kind of weird things. Like my 2002 Dodge (Beast) on the cruise control would randomly speed up and slow down. This is the AC noise from the alternator as the electrical demand went up with the heater blower, big headlights, etc the problem got worse. After doing the W-T ground wire mod the noise was reduced to a mere 11mV AC were about 50 mV AC most people start having random issues because the AC noise pollutes the hall effect sensors like speed sensors on the axles, speeds sensors on the transmission (hence the 3rd & 4th gear lock and unlock issue), this can even pollute the crank sensor signal so the cruise control will surge upwards past the set point and down below the set point because of AC noise pollution. The ground wire mod most the alternator charge lead to the passenger battery and the main grounds for the ECM and VP44 to the block and possible a secondary ground from the driver battery if done like my article. Takes about 2 hours to do the mod and I've done dozens of them and all worked perfectly. Now I've had a few issues with high load accessories like winch popping circuit breakers and fuses for the alternator but that not W-T Mod's fault its a defective accessory drawing to hard on the system.

I've seen a few storms like that where massive snow flakes are falling and add up into feet very quickly. Pretty to watch from the safety of home but I sure don't wanna be driving in that.

Hate to say the more I work on the 4th gens the more I wanna keep my older trucks. Even Thor being a 3rd Gen its a OK truck but seriously it is more expensive to maintain and keep up. Now my older Beast is way easier to maintain compared to a 3rd gen. Now the last job doing a clutch and rear main seal on a 4th gen took 3 days of pure fighting. I typically do a clutch job in half a day on 2nd Gen.

Normal park/neutral idle speed is 800 RPM +/- 5 RPM. If your idle is high means the ECT Semsor is actually reading lower temperature than it should. If it idling low typically the injectors are wore out. Most injectors are about 100k to 150k miles. This should be regardless of loads. When the APPS triggers idle mode the APPS value is dropped and the Cummins idle software is used. It's set for 800 RPMs you should be able to have everything on and sit at 800 RPM. If your live data shows ZERO engine load the injectors are wore out. ECM can no longer cut fuel to hit target idle speed.