Mopar1973Man

That is because the Edge just stacks timing on top of the stock timing of the ECM. This is not optimal at all. Bigger injectors need a good amount of retard to get spooled up then you can advance timing on top more being bigger injectors are going to need more time to heat the fuel to a vapor, then go BANG on time. On the Quadzilla the ECM is in control till warm up mode is completed. Even my truck is a bit smokey on start up and getting rolling. Once out of the warm up phase then the Quadzilla will take over and use your tune. I've got mine set for 140*F for warm up.

The dual battery cables will gain you nothing most likely. You can do a voltage drop to verify if the cable is needed but most of the time no. Even on my truck under load the voltage drop with stock cables on the negative side is 0.003 (3 mV drop). Then to verify if the dual is needed just hook up jump cables to each negative post and test again. In my case it was still 0.003 (3 mV drop) drop. So no change and nothing to be gained on dual cables.

Sound like negative torque if the timing is advancing too fast on the upper end.

The biggest problem is final ratio is too tall. 3.40:1 ratio is too tall and will cause tuning issues. Optimal is 3.55 to 3.73 and that will greatly reduce the EGT's fast. Tall ratio like that need a lot of retard to make it launch fast. That's why it a dog launch too much advance will cause the turbo to lag and not to spool. More your above 3.55 the more you need to retard to get launched. So your tune starting at 17* is insane... 13.0, 17.5, 22.0, 26.5 this would be good for your final ratio. Just for fun and info. I had a tune based on 13.0, 18.5, 24.0, and 29.5 which built upwards of 51 PSI of boost and blew my head gasket due to the choke point of my turbo 12cm2. But that combo worked really good I could light up the tires in just about any gear I wanted. Build power super fast but the MPG's was a bit lower because of the negative torque. After replacing 2 Cummins OE gaskets (which are not made by Cummins but a company called BLK) and bring my timing down to the one above now I'm got the efficiency a slight loss to top end power but with high MPG's I'm not complaining.

Junk. There again the sensor is based on electronic means to translate simple rheostat and a 2 switches. So far the Timbo APPS lasted over 300k miles and like 8 years. Still cheaper than the Wells Magnetic which can have failures electronically just like the factory OE APPS the failures between the rheostat and the electronics.

Most likely could measure the cables and get close enough. Yeah your going to want to pull the drums.

DOM of 2/00 is a 2000 truck for sure not an 2001. Now the was short bed and long bed so the cables has to be removed and measured to get the right ones. Don't feel bad I've got my 2006 truck I need to do the same thing. Driver side is all bound up just like yours.

No need for bigger tubes or lines like said above when your over 600 to 700 HP. Keep in mind bigger lines and tubes are going to offset timing more retarded being it will take more pump time to Reach pop pressure.

I agree with above comments. Bump the starter with the key this will start the prime cycle of the lift pump. Check you work for fuel leaks not to mention is the lift pump working?

I would rather opt for... 14.0, 18.5, 23.0, 27.5 for max timing on any hotrod or modified pump with an auto. 13.0, 17.5, 22.0, 26.5 for max timing with again a modified pump on a manual 5 or 6 speed.

Galled or seized timing piston will not throw any other code but a P0216 code. Which yours did. I've seen pumps so seized up your had to heat the case of the pump with a propane torch to get the piston freed or to even slide out.

Also really common for the timing piston to gall up and seize in place. If the is no p0251, p0252, p0253 or p0254 codes the solenoid wires are fine.

When the P0216 code is set the Quadzilla only reports commanded timing not actual. Like my last pump was stuck full advanced. Very hard knock only got 25 to 30 MPH.

Those are in sad shape. I'll let you know that brake fluid should be changed every 30k miles and that doesn't happen. After a period of time the brake fluid will absorb moisture and start to rout out the bores in the calipers and rot the seals.

Just some common bar to PSI conversions and the pop pressure spec according to Dodge Factory Service Manual. 1 bar = 14.5038 PSI 293 bar (minimum allowed) = 4,250 PSI 300 bar = 4,351 PSI 305 bar = 4,423 PSI 310 bar (stock OE injectors) = 4,500 PSI 320 bar = 4,641 PSI 327 bar (maximum allowed) = 4,750 PSI Being I opted for custom pop pressure being it takes just a bit more time for the VP44 to reach the pop pressure this makes my timing slightly off and retarded. I'm fine with that being I can fully adjust my timing to what I need to get the most from the injectors. As most found out 28 MPG is not impossible with 150 HP injectors. This custom 320 bar pop pressure I make up on the Quadzilla tuner. Another thing to remember its not uncommon for a injector to settle some after being built and dropping about 5 to 10 bar off its set pressure after about 20k miles. So the extra pop pressure is also buying me extended life on the injectors. The way to tell typically is watch the engine load value and the idle RPM. If the injectors are working correctly there should be a engine load between 2% to about 15% and idle at 800 +/- 10 or so. When injectors are wore out thne the idle will be >800 RPM and engine load typically will be ZERO%. This just shows the pop pressure fell out and the ECM can't defuel enough to hold an 800 RPM so it starts to high higher.

Sold them all... I will say that Timbos APPS lasted much longer than the factory OE APPS sensor which bare made about 180k on The Beast.

Even though I've got the p0122 present it still drove ok. Once in awhile it would drop out for just a second or so and pick back up. Mostly in town at 25 MPH because of light throttle needed.

I'm going beyond the normal. Typically most injector builders will pop them slightly lower than stock. Stock pop pressure is 310 bar or 4,500 PSI. Now for performance most will drop to 300 or 305 bar for better flow. I went the other direction and popped them high at 320 bar v(4,641 PSI). This made for cleaner spray pattern and better fuel economy. This is why I like @dieselautopowerfor my injectors is because I can specify a custom build and they will build to your spec. So there default pop pressure will be fine for most applications but in my case I went out on a limb to gain my high mark... 28.04 MPG on a 2002 Dodge Cummins. Was it worth it? Yup! sure was...

Too advanced in my book. Wow...

Yup. Very true. I've got 7 x 0.010 injectors custom built with VCO nozzles and popped to 320 bar. I've even tried Vulcan Performance +75HP injectors (7 x 0.0085) popped at 305 bar. I been selling DAP products for the last about 7 years. Very Very rare have I had to call DAP for warranty issues.

There are two idle validation switches. One switch when grounded it will cancel the APPS sensor and set the Cummins idle software which is set for 800 RPM. Now when the second switch is grounded the first switch is open again. Then the Cummins idle software is canceled then the ECM will follow the APPS value. 3 pins in the plug are +5V, APPS sense, and ground. Then 3 other pins are, idle, throttling and ground. Only one IVS can be active at any one time. If two are both off or on it will trip either p0222 or p0223 codes.

Simply there is no electronics on the Timbos APPS. Extremely durable, long lasting, and fully mechanical for Idle Validation Switches (IVS).

Well after about 8 years I finally wore out me first Timbos APPS. I've got a P0122 code just popped up last Thursday. Felt a few odd dead pedal periods which were short lived. I know Monday I've got to order a new one after all those miles of driving.

I get the VAT tax and distance thing... Trust me I do being most everything I need out here is still needs to be shipped here. I hope you luck on getting the new one hopefully undamaged too.

Ummm... I've got 2.9 acres and I live in the sticks. Closest Walmart in either direction is 2.5 hours away. I was smart long ago and followed my family to Idaho. I adapted to rural life very quickly. I've lived on my own for many years now. Always managed to get employment on my own. Never needed gov't assistance, never had to work for larger companies, etc.