Mopar1973Man

Might give Auto Computer Specialist a call and see if they can get those connectors for you.

Any scale blooms around the core tubes of the old radiator?

Shows discontinued... Here is the same part number. Just look for the OEM part number and then search again you dfind there is aftermarket manufactures. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-5011918AA-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B00FZPJ9RU

I've got the best heater of you all I get roughly 160*F temps out of the center vents at ZERO degrees outside. Then when I measure the hot and cold lines from the firewall. I've got 195*F going in and about 110*F coming back out. This shows that majority of my heater is transferred into the air of the cabin. Again I have zero lime scale blooms in the radiator or heater core so heat transfer is high for me. The biggest thing is keeping the coolant system flushed out on schedule and reloaded with fresh coolant every 3 year or about 75k miles. Don't trust that extended life coolants because with diesel every time you crank that engine over you charging the coolant up with high current after awhile the coolant gains a voltage this is when it becoming corrosive and pH level are drifting away from 7-8 pH. Just because it looks clean doesn't mean it is good yet.

Be careful. The whole early vs. later trucks is a real issue. Make sure you have the right PCM and ECM being you can hook up to the cam sensor doesn't mean the ECM and PCM to count that number of tone wheel teeth. So if you get it hooked up and tach is weird or wrong value then you going to need the ECM and PCM reflashed. Being the tach signal is used by both for different reasons. Personally if I was in your shoes I would pull both ECM and PCM have them flashed as 2001 software. Then take the entire wiring loom out and ewxchange for 2001. Over the years of the 2nd gens there was some wiring that was change on pin location and usage. Again common for issues between early and later series truck on software and functions of each year.

Another one that people commonly run to is Thoroughbred Diesel... I've heard a lot of people having trouble returning VP44 back to them. Lot of times the warranty is voided. Again I get what Diesel Auto Power is saying but at the same time where is these vendors getting there VP44 for so CHEAP that they don't hold up to installation and even a a first start. I realize there is a balancing point between quality and paying a bit more for it but at the same time parts are expensive and looking to save a few bucks if possible. VP44 you are never going to find good quality below $1,100 typically.

Smarty and SuperChips are the only two I know are flash tuners. Diablo power puck was wired... Still in all trip to the dealer to return to stock is worth it. I had a another 4th gen truck was running a H&S tuner and it fell apart on the owner. So I replaced it with a EFI tuner (handheld flash). Problem was the H&S left tune on the truck and now the new tuner made a mess of the ECM. Weird and random error codes. Either way after it was returned to stock the new tuner worked correctly. I know this is not the exactly the same but the out come was. Yes people do try to stack the Smarty and another tuner like Quadzilla. All it does is turn the throttle into a light switch. By the time you reach 25% to 35% TPS signal the fuel commanded is 100%. So its a very poor way to tune a engine. Not to mention the modified timing by the Smarty would be used and then the Quadzilla stacked on top making it hard to set timing properly. After all the years of working with Quadzilla I found out the efficiency is more about accurate timing values over just advancing timing up a bunch. Over advancing all it does is create negative torque where the fuel is burning before the piston makes it to TDC. Typically heard as louder rattle than normal.

Personally I would get some air brake line and re-run all the vacuum lines on the truck then using small pieces of rubber to hook up to the barbs. I've been looking at customer trucks and my own trucks and realize that the vacuum setup could be better. A matter of fact the entire driver side of the engine could be cleaned up of wires and vacuum line. Mostly the plastic lines get brittle and start to leak the only way to fine the leaks is to bow the plastic lines till the crack is noticed.

DO NOT STACK TUNERS Not a good idea. If there is any tune on the ECM you need it return back to stock tune on the ECM and then you can add the Quadzilla.

Typically the locking tab is either part of the plastic of the plug which it looks in this case. Other times there will be a spring tab that holds the terminal in place.

Happens more that you would like to... Like these other VP44 vendors I've got a few tricks to keep you out of trouble. Number one just don't deal with vendors that will not or cannot tell you the source of the VP44's and if they are Bosch Certified. If there is a warranty claim on a pump take photos of the pump exactly how it is when you pull it off and make sure to get photos of all the numbers on the case. Now in your own way mark the case. Even a standard center punch can be used to make domino marks or better yet if you have something like letter and number stamps. Again have photos of this. Now when you send the pump back in you have photo proof of the pump and it series numbers and what not when it comes to warranty claims and they want to void the pump. Have them send you a photo of the pump and the numbers to verify I bet dollars to doughnuts it will not be your pump. Now you can call them out because you can show your photos and show them it's not your pump they have to backpedal on the claim. Better yet if you deal with a QUALITY vendor like @dieselautopower you don't have to worry. In all the years of diesel work, I've only had like two pumps that were bad and warranty is never a question or issue. Send it back and they send me a new pump from Bosch Certified vendor. You have to also understand the VP44 when it's rebuilt by a Bsch Certified rebuilder they are required to core out the PSG unit on the top back to Bosch. Then to be calibrated it has to be put on a Bosch 815 test stand to be calibrated which takes 3 hours of bench time. After all, testing and calibrating are done in 3 hours then the PSG is flashed with the info it needs to be working VP44. So there is no way to cheat a rebuild of VP44 without replacing the PSG and then reflashing it with proper calibration values from a 3-hour test stand run. Hence why I only buy Bosch Certified VP44 from a vendor that supports Bosch Certified rebuilders.

Midwest Fuel Injection is one of them I can't remember the second one right now. That was a sign of the being stuck in full advance when it get loud and rattles and has no power. I lost my last VP44 at 243k miles and did the very same thing. P0216 code.

One of the few reason I stick to Diesel Auto Power for all my parts they have always made it right with me.

Something like that I would pay for the price of that filter being it can get replaceable cartridges and magnets. If set up right it might be handy for doing system flushes. I've got to think on that a bit.

Then to step up your article there @IBMobile here is a update to the filter types so you can have a replaceable cartridge now. Designed for power steering. https://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-Performance-Edition-Transmission-Power-Steering-Filter-P038M.htm

Just to give a feel for MPG with the Quadzilla Tuner... 150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar HX35/40 Turbo (60/60/12) BHAF 4" Inch Exhaust (Straight Pipe) NV4500 Transmission 245/75 R16 tires on 3.55 gears giving a final ratio of 3.69:1 I've maxed out 28.04 MPG. I commonly will got 375 to 425 miles on a half of tank of fuel. The truck below...

Pressure turns to load on the shaft. If there is restriction that is abnormal it will put more load on the tangs of the shaft wearing them out. Most of the time the pump should be in bypass mode being as you drive you barely cracking the power valve in either direction. But if the fluid was fouled and debris was high the screen could plug up some inside and then pump is under constant pumping force and wear on the tangs could possibly happen.

Hmmm... Fluid flush been done or not at all? I know lot of people don't realize that PS fluid has to be changed every 30k miles and as the fuild wears out then no longer lubing good and added stress on the pump when the debris loads up in the screen. I've got my old OEM pump still I'm pretty sure it failed from a donor steering box that was full of debris. Now Some day I'll pull it apart and look...

Not a problem. DAP has been doing very good for prices and one of my favorite suppliers for parts. The whole gang is wonderful and know there stuff. If they don't know they will find out for you. Then it doesn't help when I've met them all in person back in April 15, 2021. DAP & Quadzilla Crew...

1989 to 2002 was all PS fluid... 2003 to current is all ATF+4... Why? Because Dodge swapped out the Saginaw steering box for Ford Steering box and Ford hydro booster and then swapped over to ATF+4. When you talk to several steering box rebuilders and learn what will work and what won't work. Between wrong fluid used in the pump, oversized tires putting added stress on the pump, yeah its not going to last long.

Yup. 315 tires does put a lot of stress on the PS Pump. You should only be using a standard ratio steering box, no quick ratio, if you have a quick ratio that adds stress to the pump too which are intended for smaller tires. Power steering fluid should be flushed every 30k miles. I got 350k out of my first OEM pump.

Got ya covered...

Really simple get a Trans Temp gauge ISSPro EV2 and the pick up the relay adon then adjust the trigger point for the relay in temperature say 160-180*F and then set the warning light for 200*F maybe. But that one gauge will do the task of controlling the fan.

Sure does! Just remember to have a cooler that is rated for more heat than what is normally there so you have cooling capacity to handle towing or heavy loads or just slow climbs where the torque converter is unlocked. I had a 1951 Willys Jeep that had a Turbo 350 transmission I had the cooler removed from the radiator and then a external cooler added but I under guessed the size and always had trans temp issues with the Jeep in the heat of the summer just running the forestry roads at 25 to 30 MPH.

@JAG1got me a set for a gift for working on his truck. Mine have seen some serious usage and travel during the 5 years of driving back and forth to Ontario, OR. Yeah if you scrub them down good and then hit with armor all and leave then sit out and cook in the sun they look good for days then. Don't wipe the armor all off leave on till it dries clear.