Mopar1973Man

Welcome to the family of Cummins Nuts. I've gotta say that is a very beautiful truck you've got there. Oh trust me ask away on anything like @W-T above my post is a electrical wizard. Someone will step up and help with what they know. Surprise though is we've got members from all over the globe that have different skills at different things.

Roughly speaking for every 1 PSI of boost will give roughly ~10 HP of power so HX35W could be ran at 35 PSI of boost easy slightly out of the map but still workable. Like my HX35/40 Hybrid is the same exhaust housing as stock with the same turbine. But the compressor is HX40 wheel. Stronger turbo than the HX40. 35 PSI is roughly ~350 HP. Otherr factors in volved again tires size, gear ratio, final ratio of the transmission, final ratio to the ground with tires, injector size, pop pressure of the injector, tuner, etc.

Like myself my normal cruise 65 MPH is ~2,000 RPM. If you cruising below 1,800 your not helping efficiency. This is one of the key features that gets me 425 miles to a half tank. Smaller tires that are lighter, also the final ratio very close 3.73 ratio to the ground. Hard to catch me with a high mark of 28.04 MPG set this last summer. Low RPM's is a bad thing. Causes lugging and high EGT's because you not working in the power band.

Yes if the fan was removed or the belt was. You will be able to see the fuel push through. Of course the whole ares behind the gear would light up from the UV dye and black light. Again the time will be short between the time its start till it possibly got dye everywhere. The reason I know this I use the same kind of dye and black light for A/C work. Shaft seal. VP44 shaft seal. Yes. This is why the time is short because once the dye makes it to the oil it will be everywhere in a few seconds then the test will show fuel everywhere in a short time. This why you want the fan belt removed, gear case vent removed, valve cover removed so you can monitor all this stuff in a few minutes and see where the dye is coming from.

When you do make sure to have everything ready to look shortly after start up. Have the valve cover off, have the vent cover off the gear case, pull the fan or fan belt so you can look in the gear case for dye. Being that the oil from the head drains back to the tappet area and the VP44 gets splash fed from the gears you could possibly see dye in all places in a short order so be set up for the dye and have all the stuff setup for adding the dye. Then in the first few minutes pay close attention where your seeing dye. Also if dye is visible then shut down because again you have dye running every where is a short time.

Remember 245/75 R16 tires or 245/70 R17 tires would give you a final ratio of 3.69 roughly to the ground. Those 285/70 R17 push your final ratio 3.44 this creates more EGT's. Optimal final ratio is 3.55 to 3.73. The combo of the 245/75 R16 and the 3.55 gears makes it a perfect towing machine being the final ratio puts you right at 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH. This is optimal for towing you should be up close to 2,000 RPM for towing on the highway. Even running empty at 80 MPH is just short of 2,500 RPM.

That kind of like asking me if I'll sell "The Beast"... Same answer would be given.

So the Quad doors are going to be roll down windows right? Or electric?

Curious, would you share the URL please?

Yeah Dodge bumpers suck for design. They look good when new but after years of sun and use the plastic tend to fall off the bumper after awhile.

As many times as I've started ISB Engines with the valve cover off I've not had then spray or squirt oil everywhere. Now the belt idea and the rags would be super helpful. Even just pulling the belt and leave it idle it would take quit awhile to heat up that block completely.

Yes you can run the engine with the valve cover off to inspect operation of the valves and everything. I doubt though you might not see the fuel weeping out with so much oil running around. I'm pretty sure if you call a injection shop and ask for a front seal for the VP44 you can get one. As for the o-rings on the injectors you can get those at DAP. I just bought a set for my truck being I'm still got hard start mornings yet on The Beast.

Oh fun, pull the turbo off that truck.

What if the solenoid is closed and no boost was reach the wastegate since the no fuse? Then asking what is max stock boost? 30 PSI I'm guessing? Currently it stays pretty close to 30 PSI as a max. Just depends on how I spike the boost pressure like I said its rare but can trip the overboost. Currently I would have to say the wastegate is working. Currently I've got "Thor" parked till I find the driveline vibration now. I'm not sure if its a u-joint or what yet.

All I can say I too embarrassed to even post photos of some of the stuff I work on. Its that rough and beat up. Ranchers and farmers are extremely rough on there vehicles out here and no where near you level of maintenance. Now like Doug's truck sitting in my yard he's a cargo hauler that is a very nice truck that is modified. He's taken really good care of his truck. Extra fuel filters. Upgraded injectors +100 HP and EFI tuner. Very nice. But this is rare out here for me. Again 99% are pretty rough shape and well used. Again this is rare for me to see nice vehicles around here that are already has the proper mod and care. Just done a new transmission and clutch on this truck.

That might be true but again 99% of the trucks I work on are not even maintained to my level that I think is at least OK. Again not my truck, not my money, it all the customer choice of what I do for a job on there trucks. 2004 did this last summer only had 140k miles wouldn't start injectors were washed out. Won't build rail pressure (stuck open) 2014 did this last summer only had 190k miles barely start and ran roughly really low MPG and growing a bit of oil. Past time... I seen a 2005 Dodge that melted down cylinders 5 and 6 both with 112k miles on the injectors.... I can keep going. Currently... Up coming job. I got 2004 Dodge that is way gone now and owner is still driving on it and listening to it run. Wow! Remember 99% of the world doesn't keep up as well as you do. So the what I quote is real world experience.

Back when this all went down the error code would pop up randomly after awhile I just drove on it. New solenoid I bought from DAP and installed it seemed to work for awhile maybe not all being the fuses was missing. But it was capable of 30 PSI boost easy. After now figuring the fuse #6 out and getting a fuse in the socket now the P0243 code is over and done but once in a blue moon trip a P0234 over boost code with those +50 HP injectors.

Typically the high flow rate leak is the injection pump seal. As for low flow is stuck injector(s), cracked head, or leaking injector body o-ring(s).

Nope not really. If I creep on on it it will limit lower to 30 PSI. Jump on it I can spike it higher.

All I'll say is 99% of the trucks I work on don't have upgraded filtration, most don't even know to change the filter. With that said 100k to 150k miles on injectors.

With the error it would still make 30 to 35 PSI easy but with the CEL light on. Now the CEL light is off but possible to set the P0234 in a great while.

Just more thoughts and knowledge... Normal for at least manual trans it will hang for a bit above 800 RPM as you rolling up to a stop. Then come to rest at 800 RPM (+/-5). As for failed injectors if the engine load is at ZERO or near zero 1-3% range the injectors are most likely failing you. When they are this low or at ZERO this means the ECM is attempting to cut fuel as deep as possible to hold 800 RPM but its getting to the point it can't because injector pop pressure is too low.

Typically low pop pressure typically hangs higher than the standard 800 RPM. The only other thing then is injector body o-rings. If you go that far then while you got them out have then tested. At least verify. There isn't any change in smoke and no haze.