Mopar1973Man

Correct... That was back in 2007 at Merdian Motorsports in Merdian Idaho...

Here you go... Male fittings (JIC) http://www.vulcanperformance.com/JIC-AN-adapters-s/187.htm Female fittings (Push loc JIC) http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Pushlock-Fittings-s/186.htm

Air Bleed... Mag x10 Let's say that a single strand of 14 AWG copper wire will not fit but a single strand of 16 AWG will... Not very scientific measurement but gives you an idea of size its very very small hole.

Hey... He got up early and drove from Boise, Idaho to see me.

Everything looks good so far. Just need to add fuel. I don't see any weakness so far to worry about.

Geez... Picky picky picky...

Yea... Pplayx3 came out to the house to meet me in person and talk a bit of shop. He's driving a good looking 99 Dodge 3/4 ton. Street machine, that is totally stock and most likely going to stay that way for long time according to Pplayx3. He should pop on the site this evening and respond...

:thumbup2: 2 thumbs up here... I didn't watch the game at all... Not a football fan...

Not really. Because the overflow valve is the limiting factor. With the check ball and the size of orfice I doubt there would be any gains to oversizing the return line. Then on top of that there is no need for exceeding 20 PSI because by 14 PSI the overflow valve is open and flowing strong.

Should of kept the 24V...

It should be coming really soon. Waiting for the brown truck to show up today possibly...

I would get a test light out and see if the yellow/white wire is getting power when the engine is running. While starting it should flicker/flash.

P0381 error code?

Should add you FB link to your profile. I went to dig for it but no F button... :duh:Also I can't seem to find it on your FB either... Maybe a link to help me out... :banghead:

Without reading all this... I'm going to simple put it this way. It best to just run the 1/2" lines from tank to VP44 and be done with it. 1/2" line will have less restrictions and give less problems if you decided to upgrade late with more power or loads. Pressure is more stable with 1/2" than stock 6mm, or 3/8" lines. Yeah we can beat the whole line size with science and fact and figures but still 1/2" will always be the most stable fuel system pressure wise. Kind of like I've got a irrigation dam 1/3 of mile behind me. The pipe leaving the dam is 8" but necks down to 4" at the top of the mountain. Then there is a manifold and necks down to 1" to everyone's yards. I know the 8" pipe has a constant pressure that never changes regardless of how many sprinklers turned on. I'm sure there is a slight drop in the 4" but very little. But on my 1" line too many sprinklers and a pelton wheel generator running I can pull that 1" line down to 20 PSI for a static of 116 PSI.So getting back to the VP44. Bosch states that 70% of fuel volume should be return to the fuel tank for properly cooling and lubing. So roughly under the heaviest load you could require around 80-90 GPH of supply to meet the 70% return. So with larger lines the pressure loss will be less and cooling/lubing will continue.

Rule of thumb: For every 1 pound of boost you should be making 10 horsepower. I know this rule of thumb can be blown out of the water easy. I've seen a buddy truck locally he can easily get 30-35 PSI worth of boost on a slightly modified 1st gen with a Hx35 turbo. But on the dyno he turned 213/560 which wasn't bad with 600K miles on the engine and just pump mods and a Hx35 turbo.

On the back side of the cover it should list the different circuits it covers.

Track bar - Be sure its not moving at the ball end or the rubber end.Steering box - You can tighten up the sector adjustment a bit but don't get over zealous.Tierod end - Make sure they are not loose.

Does the wait to start light come on right away or does it delay to light up?

I won't be able to tell you but maybe a dodge Dealer could. As for electronic failures I'm finding that 90% of then stem from grounds, battery issues, alternator noise, etc. Being that electronics typically will last a very long time on just battery power but introduce noise to the power it will cause damage for sure. The other 10% is environment. Maybe the ECM is seeing serious high temps from a overheating truck.

Just because the alternator was replace doesn't mean it clean power. Read more here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues?p=63884#post63884 Any ECM will work basically its just the software that is different and yes the VIN and a few other tags will tell all about the vehicle and what it requires for software. As for the reman'ed ECM's most end up with expensive paper weights. Some have been lucky...

Sound like a ECM issue coming on. I would check the alternator first of for AC noise output from bad diodes. Then once you know you got clean power and no AC noise issues then I would try swapping ECM's with someone and see if the problem goes away. If so then you know the ECM is failing and requires replacement.

Sorry about the lag... But its just a plug N play item for speed sensors. They are just screwed to the wheel bearings in front and plug in. Just for research value I would go over to RockAuto.com for a idea of what it looks like.

Normally when I do brakes I pull each calliper out disassemble, clean and then reassemble this prevent pumping the trash into calliper during bleeding process. During the time the calliper is removed the system will drain out completely. So you got a clean slate for reloading.As for the power steering you want to use AH64ID write up in the 3rd Gen area.

Check out this video. http://youtu.be/Wi6gZU01yF8