Mopar1973Man

The power to be seem to leak out the thought of nuke being used somewhere and possibly knocking out all the electronics. I don't really even worry about this. Because everything electronic would be destroyed and leave the country like 1800's all over again. Now if your panicking and want to protect a second ECM, PCM, etc electronics for you truck its rather simple. I remember watching a youtube video. All you got to do is buy a steel trash can and place everything you want in the can to be protected from EMF. This not the same video but close enough. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t23iXhEiQUc

http://www.opencarry.org/?page_id=221 (idaho) http://www.opencarry.org/?page_id=290 (oregon)

Might try over at www.tractorfarmandfamily.com and see if the group over there has any ideas for ya.

Air intake temperature sensor is at the back of the head on the driver side. Check it by using a live data tool before replacing. Like me I've no longer using my IAT sensor at all I've got my IAT stuff with a resistor forces to 143*F constant. But even with 195*F coolant the grid heaters come on too. Secret: There is a battery temperature sensor that feeds the PCM another temp which might be fed to the ECM for other reasons.

Don't know.

Well that would be cool but there is nothing to see now but white snow everywhere. It cold, frozen, slick, etc. Did I mention its freaking cold? Maybe next summer might be a better time.

find one from a salvaged truck and have it reflashed that has been know to work.

You mean this. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/231-p1693-dtc-detected-in-companion-module I seem to be missing the P1762 code. Back to the drawing board.

:doh:Geez... All I was point out I can't tow at speeds like you do because of 2 reasons.

If I wasn't so pressured by the truck owner I would of had a perfect time to do a write up of the VP44 install I just done last week. :banghead:

Error Codes?

Sorry can't be done with my rig. 2 problems. [*]Idaho state laws limits towing speed to 65 MPH period. [*]ST trailer tires are designed for a maximum speed of 65 MPH. Most RV tire blow outs occur at 65 MPH and above. So I'm stuck at lower speeds.

I normally add anti-seize to the bolts. No sealer needed.

In the beginning I was buying fuel at the local Mom and Pop places which was cheaper fuel. I only seen the WIF light once in the life of my truck ever since then I switched to Chevron, Maverik, Cenex fuels and never had any other problems. In 5 years of my AirDog I never drained the water separator and only found about 1 ounce of water. Never seen any water in the stock filter can since...

I had a CB's and Fire radios both in my truck at one time which I mounted the radio directly to the cup holder on the driver side and mounted the antenna on the driver side fender with a custom made stainless steel bracket.

Heck... Install a Cummins 4BT and you wouldn't need all the winch and chain drives.

Ummm... Even in the 1997 flood we are a long way from the river but we had a triple water fall behind the house. That's what flood out the guest house last spring. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5621-Spring-runoff

Our backyard as a few days ago...

No issues. As for being hooked to the truck I left mine alone and just remember to pull the trailer line when camping. Nothing special that way there is no need for wiring mods. Not to mention I feel safer knowing that there is always power getting back to the RV batteries keep them charged all the time I'm rolling so if there was a need for the break-away switch to activate I know the RV batteries have been charged. But with a solenoid / relay in between the power source and the trailer bother me a bit.

That circuit is already covered by a 40A fuse in the PDC box.

Confess Rogan... You've been out brake standing that truck haven't you? Boosted launches down the side streets?

Hmmm... Starter circuit is rather simple. The key triggers the relay in the PDC and has a fuse for going down to the starter. So for testing purpose unhook the brown wire on the starter and cover the end. Turn the key to start and check the starter fuse is it blown? If not then the starter has something internally wrong with the solenoid. But if its is blown there is a short in the brown wire between the relay and the starter solenoid.

ISX has a wonderful way of explaining the relay hook up. But I'll try. Looking at a relay. So in your case you want... 86 going to keyed hot lead in the truck. 85 going to body ground. 87 to the fuse lead. 30 going to the trailer plug. Also you want a heavy duty 30-40 Amp relay as well...

Every oil change I attempt to grease my front shaft up good. I sure don't want to change those two again...

Question what's your fuel pressure like? (both idle and WOT)...and do you have any error codes?