Mopar1973Man

It looks as if the outer bearing failed. As for the brakes all they do is pull the tires and look through the inspection hole. There is no need to mess with the spindle or nut. So what your friend needs to do is ask the shop what they exactly did before saying anything about the wheel failure. Then you got them! But more that likely this is going to fall back on your friend for lack of maintenance on his part. If the truck has been driving funny then it should been up to him to inspect and find out what's going on instead of driving the truck till the wheel fell off.

This is a older video... But I can now tap the 35 pin on demand.

What thread? Where? What was it named?

In you case I would say its more filtration.

It's based on your turbo.Automatics are typically HY35W turbo which has a limit of 30 PSI. Manuals are typically HX35W turbo which has a limit of 35 PSIAs for the engine itself it can handle stock form up to 45 PSI safely without any modification other than larger turbo. Beyond this I would suggest head studs, fire ring or O-rings the head.

Brings back memories of being back in California and hanging mirrors. I was different kind of glazer I dealt with mostly bathroom mirrors and such. Man I miss those days.

Dealership only item and here is the information on it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/236-fuel-gauge-replacement-sender

Usually the P0230 code is cause from a current / load change on the factory lift pump lead.

Welcome to the family...

fairly typical to see oil down around the head bolts on most vehicles.

Not many gasket on these trucks. ISX is right most of the oil leaks are from the front cover or the tappet cover. Might just check out the vacuum pump seals too.

Thank you guys for bringing the truth to light...

Possible sucking a a bubble through (lower fuel than expected - bad gauge sender in the tank?)

I bet money the floor board carpet is damp too. So you'll end up with moisture on the windows. I've seen it a few times here under right conditions it will do it. Like this morning its only +17*F (94% RH).

If I'm not mistaken it start with the driver controls then passed to the passenger controls and then to the window motor. So time to break out with your test light and start probing wires.

Like myself when I drive <1 mile to the fire station to head out for fire calls. But when I return home I drive a extra 2-3 miles away to turn around and come home with a fully warmed up truck also give the alternator a chance to charge the batteries after grid heaters have hit. I always try to make it a point to have at least 1 cycle that makes full engine temperature in either truck (gas or diesel).

MoparMom and I will offer ours as well.

Check this out. http://www.snotr.com/video/9682

I would give a local accountant a call and ask them. Because of all the different tax laws and such I would rather check and be sure than have IRS knocking on your door.

Sounds like a CCD Network issues why you can pull codes. As for the charging problem I would pull the alternator and have it bench test and check both the brushes and diode performance.

Simple solution is give Edge products a call and get one... http://www.edgeproducts.com/contact.php

Works like a charm too. As for the headlight lens I think it more of UV thing than anything else.

Sorry I don't know. Seriously that what kills the Raptor series pumps more times out of ten is something suck into the pump wedge the rotor and burn the motor up with the fuse blowing out. Then some add bigger fuses to help it burn out better. I would suggest just getting a remote filter mount and getting a nice spin on pre-filter and then protect the pump from damage too.

Ummm... Wouldn't it be easy just to buy the appliance? At least this is what we got. http://www.nesco.com/products/Dehydrators/ Look around there is 120V muffin fan out too. I'm sure some where like Grainer or something would have a fan that is 120V and allow you to keep it simple.

Too cold you need to get you coolant temp up more. But the pyro and boost would look good for 55 MPH but alias you only rolling 40 MPH.