Mopar1973Man

As for the code here is the docs for it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

I would highly suggest a compression test before doing anything else. One of JLWelding mistakes...

No. But you will need a needle valve and set it up properly or you will eat the sender anyways.

Possible failed injector bleeding down the common rail making it hard on the CP3 to build pressure.

Mine just blew the blub out in it and now its a PITA to see most times. I'm going to carefully attempt to break the case open to repair it.

:lmao:Get me a spoon load and big ol' steak. Yummy!

I'm getting 12-14 hauling my 31' Foot Jayco that weighs roughly 7,500# loaded with water and everything.

So how long till black now is the question?

Huh? Explain yourself?

Cummins ISB engines have a air compressor that mounts in the vacuum/power steering hole. I got a guy in Louisana that is building a P-pumped 24V with a air compressor in a Dodge body. Yes. It does all fit under the hood. :wow:He's got to use a another means for a vacuum pump now but power steering and air compressor.

Question how are you going to prevent water from entering the bottle?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36OkixH0sx8

ATF fluid and filter changes every 30K miles. Then adjust the bands. As for the lock up issues I just got the answer you want. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5937-Torque-Converter-Lock-Unlock-Issues?p=63884#post63884

Let put it this way... With my mod I don't loose enough have to add oil. But I do put a few drips on the garage floor. The problem with the factory vent its mostly panic or hard stops that slosh oil out that tube. That why the reverse direction of mine to stop that action as well as up and over the engine to force the oil to try and climb.

If the outside temps are below +60*F and this is first start you should wait for the light. But if the engine is fully warmed up no need to wait just hit the key and go.All the WAIT TO START does it the ECM boots up and detect the manifold temperature if the IAT teemparture is below +60*F then the grid heaters are active for a pre-set amount of time. Then the light goes out after the time. If the IAT temperature is above +60*F then the light only comes on as a bulb check and go back off. How can you tell the grid heater pull the battery voltage way down where the bulb check doesn't.

Here is my $5 to $10 buck fix... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/42-crankcase-vent-mod

All right here http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/122-turbo-inspection

Still rather wide pressure fall...

Yeah it is a lot of work to just change the tappet cover gasket.

Either... As long as I could inspect the vehicle. Error codes, fuel pressure, check the turbo for dirt or compressor rubbing, front-end for play, etc.

Most people consider Gowshift a low quality company for gauges. But I think most of that is caused by improper installation of the gauges and senders.

Let put to you this way with my truck as is I would sell it for $8,000... (No I'm not selling my truck but using it as a point reference) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/25-2002-dodge-ram-2500

Very educational to find out most shop are NOT testing diodes and just checking for DC output.

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