Mopar1973Man

Well some of you seen my firewood pictures I'm sure. I'm not sure you want to call that fun. More like work to me... :duh:Like I told MoparMom I'm going to get busy on the RV and pack the axle bearings and get the brakes look at. It time to get ready for another year of hauling the RV around. Yipeee!

(Moving to normal forum no longer in danger)

Word of caution... I don't suggest going over 20 PSi. There is a lot of people reporting going 25-30 PSI without failure. But this is nearly double the stock pressure and is not needed. Once the overflow valve open the return line is limited on how much it can flow being its much smaller than the 1/2" big line so don't get carried away with your upper pressure limit.

I took off for a ATV ride up Hazard Road to play in the snow with my ATV and friend down the road brought his old beat up 3 wheeler and managed to get 4 miles up the road. Dumb part was I took my cameras with me but didn't shot a single thing... :banghead:

What The...I think that engine is done.

Personally I don't use any thread sealants on any fuel fittings. Just to risky to have a gob of permatex or Teflon tape get sucked into the VP44 and it would most likely plug it up and ruin it. That what sealing washers and o-rings are for. As for tapping for fuel pressure gauge I use brass fittings because they are self-sealing to some degree.I would take the regulator out and inspect it. I'm not very fond of the newer adjustable regulators they never seem to be able to hold the pressure even like the old spring and check ball does.

Keep it in the green... (14-20 PSI is optimal) Standard specs... Yes. A Big Line Kit can flow up to 520 GPH compared to the stock lines (6mm ID) can only flow 75 GPH.

That's not even right... :duh:I would see about finding something in a salvaged alternator.Then I would look at figuring out the wiring.

Best I can say is run the diagnostics... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

For use 02 Dodge's we are limited to a trailer weight of about 13,400 or so. (Owner manual will list them all).When shopping for a RV...* Use the GVW of the trailer skip the dry weight and stated pin weight. Because these two numbers are too low and not real. I don't think you would buy a RV and tow it around totally empty would you? So its best to use the GVW rating and calculate a roughly pin weight so you can fit it to your truck properly.* As for the RV interior. I suggest you play house for a few house in the RV with your whole family if possible. Lay in the beds, use the bathroom (to see if you fit), try cooking a imaginary meal, or just hang out in the living room. I went from RV to RV and alway found something that didn't fit. Some beds are too short for me. Some bathrooms are so small I could whack elbows just getting dressed or taking a shower. Remember this is going to be your new home and it not like you can remodel it to fit you so make sure it fits the family before laying down the cash. Then look over the RV for maintenance things. Ask the dealer about wheel bearing, brakes, etc.* As for the truck. hitching a RV either 5th wheel or travel trailer takes some consideration. I would highly suggest that all truck should have gauges before towing (Boost, pyro, fuel pressure, trans temp {if auto}). Make sure to upgrade any weakness in the truck like lift pump, auto trans upgrades, etc.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/277-p0112-intake-air-temperature-iat-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/278-p0113-intake-air-temperature-iat-sensor-voltage-too-high You might read over the error codes and it will explain how to test the wiring for issues. Still in all you should not need grid heaters at 40*F start. I don't even bother with the WTS light at all on my truck with temps above 32*F. But since this is a 3rd Gen I would see about having those injectors looked at. It really common to see injectors that have failed and CP3 can't build rail pressure up to fire the injectors because one or more injectors are leaking.

Question what is the GVW?That pin weight is going to be dry weight so the pin weight is typically 20-23% of GVW. You might consider the weight ratings of your truck vs. the trailer. I know ol' CajFlynn is a towing guru of sorts here. But he's got the luxury of adjusting the boats on the trailer to get the hitch weight where he wants it. 40 foot is quite long and going to be difficult to tow with a SRW 3/4 ton. I'm not saying it won't do it but its going to tug and pull more. My 31' Jayco can make my 02 Dodge dance a bit on a windy day.

Come on down... No problems Canuks here... Ha! I'm lighter and longer 31 foot and scales at 7,500# loaded GCW 16,100#. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=egBt6Zl0vs4

Well for me it typically a ride on the ATV in the back country somewhere. I've got it set up to go out with a neighbor here soon to go looking for firewood even before the snow is gone. Then there is camping I love hitching up the RV and heading out to the back country.

http://www.guns.com/2013/02/14/olympic-arms-halts-sales-to-new-york-law-enforcement/ http://www.ammoland.com/2013/02/york-arms-cancels-all-its-new-york-police-orders/#axzz2KvrubcNd Buxton, ME --(Ammoland.com)- Based on the recent legislation in New York, we are prohibited from selling rifles and receivers to residents of New York. We have chosen to extend that prohibition to all governmental agencies associated with or located within New York. As a result we have halted sales of rifles, short barreled rifles, short barreled shotguns, machine guns, and silencers to New York governmental agencies. For “civilian” customers residing in New York: At your choice, we will: Complete your order and ship to a dealer of your choice outside of NY. Refund your payment in full. Hold your items here for up to 6 months, at no charge – if you are in the process of leaving NY and taking residence in another state. For LE/Govt customers in New York: Your orders have been cancelled.

Well... Josh welcome to the family. I'm sure someone around here can teach you a few tricks or help you with your issues.

But it all been proven that the old school 12V pump can't keep up with high volume flows at high RPM's this is why most are switching to a electric pumps. http://www.torkteknology.com/news/5/Technical-Article-Number-One%252d-The-Cummins-Lift-Pump.html

As for the brake I never really got into all the mods with 3rd Gen rotors, slotted and drilled rotors, etc. The only thing I did was invest in a exhaust brake and never looked back. Wonderful part was no worries about get brakes hot because the exhaust brake s my first used brake then you supplement with the service brakes. So when I did my first brake job at 185K miles I barely had 0.010 turn off the OE rotors and only invested $170 or so into rebuilding the calipers and pads. What's wonderful is once you get use to the exhaust brake you find you rarely put your foot on the center pedal at all if you do its rare.

Still running the OE starter. The only thing I've done was contact replacement. That's all. But yes there is several factors that can effect or play hell with a vehicle starting properly. I've seen a 92 Cummins with a single bad brush (out of 4) that now cranks very slowly and weakly like the batteries are dead. But they are not its just the power isn't getting to the starter while cranking. I know for this problem you can buy the brush rebuilt for the starter too from LarryB's...

The best way I know is to install a fuel pressure gauge and test the fuel pressure. During cranking it should be roughly 7-12 PSI and with a starter bump it should be roughly 14-15 PSI without the engine running. If there is no error codes this makes it a bit tough. There is a article on BlueChip site about hot wiring the VP44 for a start and idle test. It's a way of providing power so the VP44 will at least start and idle. But typically if the lift pump is working properly with good pressure the VP44 is typically happy too. But being you got a in-tank pump I've got a sneaky feeling the VP44 has taken on damage and the code can't be thrown because the truck isn't running. Most VP44 codes require the engine to at least run even for a short span.

JAG hit the nail on the head for sure. All really good idea and suggestions!

Impressed but not... It would be nice to see Dodge have a 1500 Ram but that little V6 engine looks like another Ford or Chevy engine. Looks to be a big pain in the rear to work on.Cast iron block and aluminium heads! Can you hear blown head gaskets? :rolleyes:15.5:1 Compression Ratio? That's the lowest one I've heard of. I guess winter cold would really play hell on that little engine if the glow plugs aren't working.

I'm not sure what you mean about the eyelet? The ground cable is the battery lead there is no eyelet I know off. I'll grab my camera in the morning and show you.

Everyone has seen my street sleeper...

All cluster gauges are controlled over a 2 wire network bus just like the Ethernet cord for your network. Twisted pair networking.