Mopar1973Man

Time to replace both bulbs with a good pair of Silverstars...

Tidbit...When a tree or object is shorted across the lines the power typical will go out and come back on three times. After the third time it stays out. Now some thing interesting the power breaker for the canyon (from Riggins, ID to New Meadows, ID) is located in New Meadows, ID in the middle of town more or less. Now the local power company is in McCall, ID. They stock a few things for supplies but not much. So if it serious they have to truck down to Boise, ID typically and pick it up from the main warehouse. So now knowing all this I started out with a 4Kw generator years ago. Survived the 96-97 Flood of Idaho where we lost power, phone, etc. for over 14 days and longer in other areas. After that I talked the parents into investing into the inverter, solar panels, and the hydro generator. Now looking back I'm glad I twisted there arms and got them to purchase it. We've had this system now since 1998 so nearly 15 years now. Been through 1 set of batteries lasting 13 years. Like during the summer I typically limit the city down to 20 Amps. That means any load above 20 amps I have to provide for out of my own generation or batteries. Remember when I state amps its on 120 VAC not 220 VAC. (so 2,400 watts). That's all I'll take from the Idaho Power. So typically in the summer time the power bill is $30-$40 bucks. But come winter time, no hydro, and very limited solar, power bill jumps again. But now I've been twisting Moparmom's arm to replace most of the standard light bulbs with compact florescent. I'll have to do a video of that. But when I was out in the RV I fire up the little 400w inverter and plug in MoparMom's little lamp for the kitchen. Well the first bulb was a true 60w bulb and would eat two 12V deep cycle batteries rather quickly. So I popped out the standard bulb and got a compact florescence talk about a huge drop in amp draw. Then I've got the computer rigged for power management. MoparMom's goes to sleep. Mine goes to low power mode. So all in all I've walked down to the inverter and check the household loads and lot of the times in the evening it can vary about 3-7 Amps total loads.

That's cool Rogan... I didn't know you knew how to speak Italian...

I always self adjust my light on a empty road and make sure my lights are aimed for the bulbs not a goofy tool. So when I'm done the low beam reach out a long ways but never hit road reflectors nor taillight reflectors. I typically cover one side and adjust the other.

Thanks... Eight 6V batteries 810 Amp/hours. http://www.trojanbatteryre.com/PDF/datasheets/L16REB_TrojanRE_Data_Sheets.pdf Would you believe I live off of 4Kw daily? My inverter is only 120V output (no 220 VAC). So I got a step up transformer for the well pump. Everything else in the house is converted to 110VAC. As for 3 things not covered by the inverter cook stove, oven, and the drier. Those are the only things not attached to the inverter. Geez... 10 gallons of gasoline would go a very long ways for me. Typical loads here are about 3-10 Amps 120 VAC. (360-1,200 Watts) Then spike periods is in the morning with showers, coffee maker, space heater, etc. Now we are pumping maybe 25-30 Amps 120 VAC. (3,000-3,600 Watts). Like today the power was only out a short maybe 30-40 minutes. My neighbor has a propane generator that totally autostart but there is lag time. Like my computer typical can withstand the burn out where MoparMom's typical shuts down. But the only thing I do is set the timer on the oven to 0 minutes and turn of the water heater. Soon as the buzz sounds powers back on and turn the water heater back on. I've seen power outages that lasted over 24 hours. No biggy. Just fire up the generator just before bed charge the batteries up. Shut it down. Then go to bed watching movies. The neighbor has to manually shut down his propane generator at night. Stumble around with flashlights. Just normal life here. Just like being in the RV just more room! Got you beat longest outage has been 14 days...

Welcome to the family from across the pond. Hang around and do some reading and post as many questions as you want.

Here is a sample of life without power here at my place. Nothing much changes. http://youtu.be/LNBnCYm0vgE

I've also got the rheostat on my floor. I can adjust the value also I do have a Scangauge II.

Shibby over on CF.com suppose to be making them now.

Pick one...

I think Russ has a rotary switch with a few different values going.

Or the other fancy tool "Jiggle Keys" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24ZYZMva1e0 http://youtu.be/sjOtomfRPN0 Hence why the dog rides with me while I'm out and about. Then why my truck is typically stored in the garage behind a locked door. No wiring schematics needed... Just one jiggle key and get the door open then start the truck.

Poor mans tailgate security is to wrap a hose clamp around the slotted side and set up in such a fashion that you got to lay on your back and reach up to remove it. So when the tailgate is lowered the hose clamp is facing the bed now a thief won't be able to get it off.

... or wet firewood. But that's all I've got is a lot of wet firewood trying to dry under tarps in the yard.

There is something to be said about adjustable pumps. :rolleyes:Raptor has been know for unstable regulators at times. Like my AirDog old school spring and check ball tend to go lower when then get goofy.

OMG! I'm sure you learned your lesson.

I'm lazy... Mine is stored on the other side of the wall from the stove. So open the garage door pick up a piece of wood walk maybe 3 steps and toss it in the stove. Ever 3-4 days I go out with the ATV and bring in a rack load and ready for 3-4 days again.

Russ would be the man to talk to he'll know how...

Zuki...Question for you how did the thieves start your truck? hot wire? Break the ignition lock? Etc...

Bi-Level, Floor-Def and Def are normal for A/C compressor to run. Vent and floor don't.

Here is another form of security for my truck and most people just leave it alone...Not many people want to take on a smiling Dobbie... :lmao:This is Diesel's favorite place to be. You say the words "Truckin'" and he's all wound up and ready to bail into the truck. Both trucks are setup for him and he doesn't mine the confinement he's just enjoys the ride.Alway love it when I get to the tire shop and the guy takes my keys. I'm thinking "Go ahead..." so he walks out to the truck and typical they come walking back because there is a Dobbie smiling back...

My best idea was to seperate the PDC (Power distribution Box) then take the fuel pump relay and look for the black lead on pin 85 of the relay and pin 20 of the Joint Connector seperate it from the joint connector and extend it into the cab. Now add a toggle switch to this black lead and ground the other end. Stack the toggle switch somewhere you can reach it easy without other in the cab even noticing. My idea was to use the hollow are behind the brake release. Reach down go click with you finger and no one even knows. But the truck will never start. Problem with pulling a single fuse or single relay is that there is other relays and fuse to replace it. So you would have to take them all. As for my idea runs on the principal of removing the relay but done with a single wire.If pepsi71ocean shows up he's got another idea that works really well but I can't remember the name of it. (CRS moment).

Later on I'll take my camera out and take a peek at mine...

What's truely funny about your responses is that MoparMom wanted to help stack wood on the trailer and she requested to bring the camera out... I told her what I setup and she agreed. All she could do is laugh her rear off at the video.

:lol:There you go Rogan...The big screen monitor just for surfing the site. Just seem like you got to pan left to right to fit right? Not bad...