Mopar1973Man

Volume and pressure stability. With smaller ID plumbing you get wilder pressure swings up and down. Mainly because Bosch VP44 injection pump requires 70% of all fuel to be return to the tank for cooling and lubing reasons. So this means even with a stock fuel system you would need a supply volume of roughly 70-90 GPH. So the stock plumbing is only rated for 75 GPH but that with 0 PSI at the Bosch VP44 Injection pump and 15 PSI at the lift pump. So the increase in ID of the lines aids in pressure stability so like on my truck I start at 19 PSI at idle and 17 PSI at WOT. With the old stock lines it would start at 15 PSI and fall to 8 PSI. So you got to remember the larger line isn't for the 30% being burned but for the 70% that required for cooling and lubing.

So who's going to start biodiesel plant? Oh that means someone has to come back to the main land for methanol. Sure make a lot of soap with the waste products.

That why I will always suggest you at least try to get out of the blowing wind or park in a enclosed area. At leas then you heat is not wasted to extreme cold outside. Like both garages here are unheated so If the temp got down cold I would plug in the trucks while parked the shop. At least now the heat not wasted outside but heating a garage. 750W heater is still a heater regardless if it household appliance or a block heater.

I'm following the same MPG's basically with a small change in driving style.

Well I'm now really going for the gold now. I've managed to reduce from 5x5 to 5x3 on the Edge Comp and keep 20 MPG now. Certainly different driving style is required. Now for those that are not owners of Edge products let me throw this out. Edge Comp and Edge Juice are both have the same in software basically. They both have 5 main levels and 5 sublevels. MAIN LEVELS [*]40 HP [*]60 HP [*]80 HP [*]100 HP [*]120 HP SUBLEVELS [*]33% of stock fueling/timing till 20 PSI of boost [*]50% of stock fueling/timing till 15 PSI of boost [*]67% of stock fueling/timing till 10 PSI of boost [*]Some Extra fuel at 0 PSI of boost [*]Full fuel and Timing at 0 PSI of boost Now you got to remember I got winter time temps, my oversize tires 265's, and the tune of 5x3. Now I've changed over to the 5x3 and continued driving like I did previously and saw the MPG drop to nearly 16-18 MPG range. I relized that the timing curve was not available with low boos that I normal see of 1.5 to 3 PSI which is well below 10 PSI limit of the defuel mode of the Edge. So today figure I change driving style a bit and see if I could gain it back. Since my trip to McCall, ID is all up hill from home to McCall, ID all I did was left it 4th gear (NV4500) and set the cruise for 55 MPh as usual. This put my tach upwards of 2,100 RPM's and boost about 7-9 PSI the whole way up. Seems to gain slightly on the way up by the time I hit McCall, ID I had just barely touched on 15.9-16.0 MPG on the ScanGauge II. So now light foot around town and scratch up a few more tenths of MPG. Then on my way home I used 5th gear let the truck just roll down hill basically. By the time I hit the yard I was at 20.5 MPG. This is still experimental stag and I'm going to continue learning and testing to see if I can get the most of this tune. More to come... PS: Oh... I forgot to mention that with this tune I've got way more torque now and been having trouble even with my 265's tires. In 2nd and 3rd gears I just got to plant the pedal to the floor and the turbo lights and so do the tires.

Ask AH64ID he's the site filter guru...

3 Things kill Bosch VP44 injection pumps.1. Low fuel pressure 10 is bottom line 14 is suggested minimum.2. Fuel Lubricity Bosch states fuel needs to be 450 HFRR or less. Today fuel is 520 HFRR3. Filtration should be as low as possible. Most stock filters ar 10 micron but I suggest 2-3 micron.

Really there is no big reason for the catch bottle really I drip so very little out in 2 months it not even worth noting really.

I've got that low pressure light on mine too (Cummins) but Cummins ow pressure light comes on at 3.5 PSI which way too low. Lower limit is 10 PSI and suggested minimum is 14 PSI. Unless you get a adjustable Hobbs switch and set it for 10 PSI. But I still would suggest pressure gauge over any low pressure light.

It's a requirement for a snubber or needle valve. But I'm finding more and more snubbers fail to portect the senders. If your needle valve is setup properly it should take 2-3 seconds to rise from 0 to what ever pressure you got. Gauge should never jst snap to position this is a bad thing. As for sender location you want to be as far back away from the injection pump as possible but still forward of the last filter.

If it going to be parked for extended periods you might consider just pull the IOD fuse out using the clip.

A little run down about ECM and Wait To Start light...When the key is twisted from OFF to ON and you normal see the wait to start light come on. There is several thing that have to happen for it to light up. first of all you got to understand the ECM is just like you home computer. ECm had a PROM (Programmable Read Only Memory) kind of like your hard drive, processor, RAM (memory), etc. So when that key is turned on the processor reads the PROM into RAM (booting) and then starts the software. One of the first task is to check IAT temps and see if grid heat is needed. Well when the Wait to stat light is lighting up is typically because there is a issue with the internal RAM and memory errors. So booting process is slowed way down trying to write the information to RAM. Eventually it does out right fail. As for a cause I finding that alternator AC noise is a big factor to electronic life span on these truck. You might have the alternator check as well as batteries and battery cables for problems too. Being the ECM and VP44 share the negative battery cable for ground.

VP44 are know to fail with out codes. As for myself my first and only VP44 failure was a P0216 failure. Fuel pressure is too low you should try to stay above 14 PSI. So I would say its possible the VP44 is wore out from marginal fuel pressure.

The Mopar 426 Hemi will also be king...

I typically get about 30-40K out of set of tires. My biggest problem is dirt roads and exhaust brakes usage. I really good about rotation and keeping pressures in check. I know I've posted it before but here I got again... (axle weight / 2) / tire weight capacity ) x tire max inflation = suggested inflation pressure

Double check the cable. I know its a royal PITA to remove, but if you removed it and coiled it up in a bucket of waste engine oil and let it soak overnight, you might prolong its life and prevent sticking again.

If you can even park the truck inside a enclosed building would be better than plugging in outside with the cold wind blow around the block.

Holy Cow... I think farmer Joe lost the trailer of cows getting to the track...

WAIT TO START light comes on typically and runs the grid heaters that are draing 190A worth. So if the temps are above +32*F you can start without grid heaters with no issue. Below +32*F you might have issues getting it to start.So now if the block heater was plugged in about 2-3 hours before hand you wouldn't need to wait at all just hit the key and go. Block temperature should be roughly 90-110*F which will also be plenty for a no grid heater start.

Then there is CajFlynn the towing nut of the site... Ask him what that weighs???

Both are possible...

That idea was snagged from over at RamForum.Com. There some guys over there that are producing this bar that you just bolt on. So I figure with a bit of shop time and junk steel I could do the same. But I will mention by placing the fog lamp in the grill and putting the air dam back on the front I gained about 2 MPG on that little 5.9L gasser. It was a well worth it mod. :thumbup2:Just need to buy a bulb for the one side... :banghead:Now that wiring idea will work with any fog or driving light you want to use. The only reason I switch to these is the fact that in the winter time the highway are heavily graveled and I end up breaking at least 1 fog light a winter. So after spending huge money on KC's or other name brand lights to break a lens I finally switch over to the seal beam bulbs because no biggy if it broke smash it with a hammer and vacuum the glass out. Hook up the wires and snap back in the rubber bucket. simple...

Remember this is a 1996 Dodge 1500 5.9L Gasser... Not a diesel. All it built on is a piece of re-bar. Welded tabs to the rebar to mount the light to the re-bar. The hacked up a old extension cord for the wiring. I know this is very redneck looking but it works awesome.

Just a little heads up for you 3rd Gen owners I know I had the simple error coe list at the top of the page. I'm currently working on the explained version of the error codes for the site you might want to take a look over here. It's incomplete but about half of them are there now. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes Enjoy...

Possible. A lot of people have had issues with air leaks around the quick connectors. Since it a suction line it never leak outward. Even with the engine off air leaks inward draining the line out.