Mopar1973Man

Mine hooked directly to the stock 3" pipe without changing. Mine was design for the stock OE exhaust as for the Banks I'm not sure I would take the down pipe to be sure.

Sorry... It comes out on the tappet cover near the starter.

Should look something like a older 12V.

My truck is just like the 3rd gens now. Change the oil and it black in the first start. I gave up worrying about the color of the oil. As long as the debris levels are low enough for the filters to handle everything should be good. But still interested in what happens in your study...

I don't see any reason why not. If it fit you price range and the owner is going to stand behind his offer then go for it.

Sounds like you got a laundry list of thing to take care of.Personally I would get the gauges install first thing. ISSpro and mechanical gauges are my preference.As for the trailer brake controller most like Prodigy III bit spendy but a very good controller. I've got a Prodigy II and it just as good as the Prodigy III.ScanGauge II is a wonderful tool for getting the most from the MPG bracket once you get it all setup and calibrated.As for the drive door it might be a bad pin switch? Map light there is a rebuild proces over on CumminsForum.com on how to do it will RadioShack parts. I see if I can find it for you.Rear quad door is most likely a pull rod are damaged and need new clips. If one if failing you might consider doing the other as well.

BHAF article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter As for how much value? Well K&N didn't add any value that for sure as for damages the only way to tell is do a compression test but I doubt the owner will go for that.

Typically I normally see them full but hear of them being down a touch too. Might have something to do with the filter and the design of the valve that some have. Some have a rubber flap that prevent drain back.

So you already got the TSB done? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/44-tsb-09-002-02-oil-overflow-from-the-front-crankcase-breather

Here is a write up of the BHAF... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter Common appearance of a K&N filter truck. You can see where the compressor wheel is making contact with the housing in this picture and is a bad sign for the turbo. Remember all this dirt and junk is imbalance the turbo and being sucked into the engine. Here is a turbo with a proper paper filter no dirt.

I ran over to NADA quick and did a basic look up on it and clean value is about $12,800.

Welcome to the family...

I know I don't exactly apply either but I've been hunting for a smokeless tune that keeps the MPG's as well. Come to find out even in my tuning that reducing the sublevel from 5 to 3 well come to find out the timing curve fell out sharply and so did the MPG's even my ScanGauge II is showing only 16-17 MPG at best. So I bounced up to Sublevel 4 trying to gain back but here comes the darn smoke again. I'll most likely return back to 5.

Interested in results.

Might go over your wiring and main cables and make sureeverything is good. Might break out a ohm meter and do some testing too. also go back and read over the error code I'm sure there is some tips in there.

Here is the P1682... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/224-p1682-charging-system-voltage-too-low So you got some batteries and alternator to bench test.

Actually what I'm finding out regardless of 12V or 24V. It the fact like ISX always said right along is to have the timing set just right for your way of driving. Like I changed my programming just to try different things and finding out differences in timing make a huge change in power. But in the same token the wrong timing can reduce or increase MPG's depending on where you sit in the RPM range vs. your timing. Yes ISX I did listen to you...

CCD Network error. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/234-p1698-no-bus-message-received-from-pcm VP44 Injection pump failure http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/170-p0252-fuel-valve-signal-missing Turbo wastegate issue (not a MAP sensor) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/165-p0234-turbo-boost-limit-exceeded As for the CCD network error you might run the diagnostic in the link and here is the wiring diagram to aid you. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus As for the P0252 that's a internal pump failure you can reset the codes and take a test drive and see if it comes back but I would keep it in the back of your head it might come back again. As for the P0234 that's caused by a failed wastegate that's stuck closed. Typically rusted shut.

Try 2 thing... [*]Disconnect the alternator fuse and go for a ride. [*]Bench test the alternator have it test for diode pattern. If disconnecting the alternator fixes the problem you know the alternator is the causes. Or you could have it bench tested and check for AC pattern being output from the alternator. As for the P0500 code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal

Wow... A wise man. You the kind I would love to sit down and hear the stories...

Injector cleaner "might" help in keeping the nozzle hole clean but it doesn't do much for taking the coked up diesel off the pintle needle.

I resemble that comment. I've got my aluminium heat shield, foam covered A/C, lines and my bungie cord holding down my BHAF.

I think the simplest way is to see if the tweeter is on the A-pillar.

Give you an idea. My shop in nothing more than a concrete brick building with a metal roof. I can get 101.1 FM in the yard with the truck radio. Back in the shop forget it its gone. Even my fire radio go into the shop and try to transmit not going to happen. Even using my cordless phone is really spotty weak and I must be careful or it will hang up. Even have a steel garage door too.Now the main house is mostly stick build on a concrete basement but there is no issues EMF wise here. So if my truck was parked over in the shop it would have a better chance of survival against EMF than the main house garage.Then I look at the terrain I live in. Most all RF energy is line of sight so more than likely there would only be a small part of energy ever to make it the bottom of this canyon. The canyon wall on both sides (east and west) are roughly 6,000 to 7,000 feet tall I'm at a low of 2,800 feet. Kind of like a fold of a book.

I'm using a rheostat for adjustable tuning but you could go between 100-143*F... [TABLE] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]