Mopar1973Man

Nothing more than superficial cuts on me. Never had stitches. Stranger yet... Never wore gloves always handled glass bare handed. :stuned:I never forget on of the fun job I did in LA was a 40 story condo. So every morning I was stuff in the utility elevator told to stand there. Then one by one the crew would carefully rotate in a cut piece of mirror and stack them on my steel toed boots. The elevator was tall enough for 108" and larger sheets but not wide enough. So I became the human glass rack. Do about 3-4 trip in the morning. Then once everything is on the floor we're working on then you just matched the mirror to the room numbers.

I'm not a CR engine but I'm living on barrowed time now. Typically the old rule of thumb was 100K miles for a VP44 I'm at 158K miles on my VP44. I'm running a AirDog 150 with Donaldson 3 micron filter and 10 micron filter Fleetguard filter in the stock can. I can say without a doubt the filtration helps. I'm roughly 30K miles on the Donaldson filters and closer to 50K on the Fleetguard (just getting dark colored). There are 3 things that kill VP44s... 1. Lubricity of the fuel (<450 HFRR) 2. Fuel pressure (14-20 PSI) 3. Filtration 2-3 micron (Optimal) So back to CR fuel systems. I would consider doing some of AH64ID mods. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/55-fuel-system/116-additional-fuel-filter-install-on-a-3rd-gen

Without reading the entire thread the hard start to me sounds of low rail pressure from leaking injectors. I would pull the injectors and have them bench tested.

Ok...As for filtration you want to talk to AH64ID he's a guru on filters of all types.As for the 2 cycle oil for 3rd Gen's I would talk to Dorkweed. He's been using it for quite a while and no issues.

The site policy is that nothing should be deleted from the site. But like ISX pointed out it might of been shuffled to another forum. If its in the new Gov't or Religious forum then you have to enable your account to get there. Just go to your Control Panel and under Group Permissions select the groups you want to join. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/profile.php?do=editusergroups

Take care of your health first thing... :wink:I'm like you in a lot of ways. I've been crash studying Linux OS system so I can enhance my abilities at web site management. Yeah sure I could pay big money to go back to ITT Tech and throw $50,000 down and be a certified web site administrator. But wait a second... I've already tossed down $53,000 dollars 23 years ago in Van Nuys, CA at ITT Tech for computer and electronics. But what's really sad is the degree I've got is worthless today. I was trained for the 8088 Intel Processor and transistor FM radios. I'm sorry to say but that's completely obsolete now. Back when I went to ITT Tech the Internet was even public yet. So I look at a degree as something that is time limited 5-10 years from the time you get it your obsolete. So either you can school yourself like we both are or you can keep throwing thousands of dollars out chasing the next degree. But look at me I'm just a lowly Idahoian I'm not a diesel technician, I'm not ASE certified, I've never gone to school for a diesel engine ever! But to this day I get phone calls from all over the world... (Not a typo! yes the world!) and I help people with diesel issues might be easy and get them rolling or it might take some study work to figure out the issues. This where I typically fall back on my family here. I learn form the family members here about most problems. If it a rare one then I ask question or find someone with a answer.Like with any industry you go into no one is perfect and it human to error. But what set most of us apart from the general masses is the fact we learn from our mistakes and the mistakes of other family members here.ISX... I say go out there and chase your dreams.

It looks as if the outer bearing failed. As for the brakes all they do is pull the tires and look through the inspection hole. There is no need to mess with the spindle or nut. So what your friend needs to do is ask the shop what they exactly did before saying anything about the wheel failure. Then you got them! But more that likely this is going to fall back on your friend for lack of maintenance on his part. If the truck has been driving funny then it should been up to him to inspect and find out what's going on instead of driving the truck till the wheel fell off.

This is a older video... But I can now tap the 35 pin on demand.

What thread? Where? What was it named?

In you case I would say its more filtration.

It's based on your turbo.Automatics are typically HY35W turbo which has a limit of 30 PSI. Manuals are typically HX35W turbo which has a limit of 35 PSIAs for the engine itself it can handle stock form up to 45 PSI safely without any modification other than larger turbo. Beyond this I would suggest head studs, fire ring or O-rings the head.

Brings back memories of being back in California and hanging mirrors. I was different kind of glazer I dealt with mostly bathroom mirrors and such. Man I miss those days.

Dealership only item and here is the information on it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/236-fuel-gauge-replacement-sender

Usually the P0230 code is cause from a current / load change on the factory lift pump lead.

Welcome to the family...

fairly typical to see oil down around the head bolts on most vehicles.

Not many gasket on these trucks. ISX is right most of the oil leaks are from the front cover or the tappet cover. Might just check out the vacuum pump seals too.

Thank you guys for bringing the truth to light...

Possible sucking a a bubble through (lower fuel than expected - bad gauge sender in the tank?)

I bet money the floor board carpet is damp too. So you'll end up with moisture on the windows. I've seen it a few times here under right conditions it will do it. Like this morning its only +17*F (94% RH).

If I'm not mistaken it start with the driver controls then passed to the passenger controls and then to the window motor. So time to break out with your test light and start probing wires.

Like myself when I drive <1 mile to the fire station to head out for fire calls. But when I return home I drive a extra 2-3 miles away to turn around and come home with a fully warmed up truck also give the alternator a chance to charge the batteries after grid heaters have hit. I always try to make it a point to have at least 1 cycle that makes full engine temperature in either truck (gas or diesel).

MoparMom and I will offer ours as well.

Check this out. http://www.snotr.com/video/9682

I would give a local accountant a call and ask them. Because of all the different tax laws and such I would rather check and be sure than have IRS knocking on your door.