Mopar1973Man

CCD Network error. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/234-p1698-no-bus-message-received-from-pcm VP44 Injection pump failure http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/170-p0252-fuel-valve-signal-missing Turbo wastegate issue (not a MAP sensor) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/165-p0234-turbo-boost-limit-exceeded As for the CCD network error you might run the diagnostic in the link and here is the wiring diagram to aid you. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus As for the P0252 that's a internal pump failure you can reset the codes and take a test drive and see if it comes back but I would keep it in the back of your head it might come back again. As for the P0234 that's caused by a failed wastegate that's stuck closed. Typically rusted shut.

Try 2 thing... [*]Disconnect the alternator fuse and go for a ride. [*]Bench test the alternator have it test for diode pattern. If disconnecting the alternator fixes the problem you know the alternator is the causes. Or you could have it bench tested and check for AC pattern being output from the alternator. As for the P0500 code... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal

Wow... A wise man. You the kind I would love to sit down and hear the stories...

Injector cleaner "might" help in keeping the nozzle hole clean but it doesn't do much for taking the coked up diesel off the pintle needle.

I resemble that comment. I've got my aluminium heat shield, foam covered A/C, lines and my bungie cord holding down my BHAF.

I think the simplest way is to see if the tweeter is on the A-pillar.

Give you an idea. My shop in nothing more than a concrete brick building with a metal roof. I can get 101.1 FM in the yard with the truck radio. Back in the shop forget it its gone. Even my fire radio go into the shop and try to transmit not going to happen. Even using my cordless phone is really spotty weak and I must be careful or it will hang up. Even have a steel garage door too.Now the main house is mostly stick build on a concrete basement but there is no issues EMF wise here. So if my truck was parked over in the shop it would have a better chance of survival against EMF than the main house garage.Then I look at the terrain I live in. Most all RF energy is line of sight so more than likely there would only be a small part of energy ever to make it the bottom of this canyon. The canyon wall on both sides (east and west) are roughly 6,000 to 7,000 feet tall I'm at a low of 2,800 feet. Kind of like a fold of a book.

I'm using a rheostat for adjustable tuning but you could go between 100-143*F... [TABLE] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

The power to be seem to leak out the thought of nuke being used somewhere and possibly knocking out all the electronics. I don't really even worry about this. Because everything electronic would be destroyed and leave the country like 1800's all over again. Now if your panicking and want to protect a second ECM, PCM, etc electronics for you truck its rather simple. I remember watching a youtube video. All you got to do is buy a steel trash can and place everything you want in the can to be protected from EMF. This not the same video but close enough. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t23iXhEiQUc

http://www.opencarry.org/?page_id=221 (idaho) http://www.opencarry.org/?page_id=290 (oregon)

Might try over at www.tractorfarmandfamily.com and see if the group over there has any ideas for ya.

Air intake temperature sensor is at the back of the head on the driver side. Check it by using a live data tool before replacing. Like me I've no longer using my IAT sensor at all I've got my IAT stuff with a resistor forces to 143*F constant. But even with 195*F coolant the grid heaters come on too. Secret: There is a battery temperature sensor that feeds the PCM another temp which might be fed to the ECM for other reasons.

Don't know.

Well that would be cool but there is nothing to see now but white snow everywhere. It cold, frozen, slick, etc. Did I mention its freaking cold? Maybe next summer might be a better time.

find one from a salvaged truck and have it reflashed that has been know to work.

You mean this. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/231-p1693-dtc-detected-in-companion-module I seem to be missing the P1762 code. Back to the drawing board.

:doh:Geez... All I was point out I can't tow at speeds like you do because of 2 reasons.

If I wasn't so pressured by the truck owner I would of had a perfect time to do a write up of the VP44 install I just done last week. :banghead:

Error Codes?

Sorry can't be done with my rig. 2 problems. [*]Idaho state laws limits towing speed to 65 MPH period. [*]ST trailer tires are designed for a maximum speed of 65 MPH. Most RV tire blow outs occur at 65 MPH and above. So I'm stuck at lower speeds.

I normally add anti-seize to the bolts. No sealer needed.

In the beginning I was buying fuel at the local Mom and Pop places which was cheaper fuel. I only seen the WIF light once in the life of my truck ever since then I switched to Chevron, Maverik, Cenex fuels and never had any other problems. In 5 years of my AirDog I never drained the water separator and only found about 1 ounce of water. Never seen any water in the stock filter can since...

I had a CB's and Fire radios both in my truck at one time which I mounted the radio directly to the cup holder on the driver side and mounted the antenna on the driver side fender with a custom made stainless steel bracket.

Heck... Install a Cummins 4BT and you wouldn't need all the winch and chain drives.

Ummm... Even in the 1997 flood we are a long way from the river but we had a triple water fall behind the house. That's what flood out the guest house last spring. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5621-Spring-runoff