Mopar1973Man

Little clarity... Edge Juice or Edge Comp both are modules that tap the VP44 pump and MAP sensor. What happens is the Edge module get the MAP sensor reading before the ECM and is capable of adding or subtracting fuel based on boost. Once the boost exceeds the stock fuel tables of the ECM then the Edge module takes over completely calculating the fuel map beyond stock values adding and subtracting signal from the pump through the wire tap. This why most tapped modules can do 120-180 HP.As for programmer like Smarty and such only rewrite the ECM table so any boost pressure is acceptable. But also got to play within the confines of the ECM table hence why Smarty is limited to only 60-65 HP gains.

Starter contacts or starter brushes? Main cables problems corrosion weak connections? P0122 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low As for VP44 typically they can and will throw codes before death but not always. So far I've not seen anything point to a VP44 failure yet.

Even with the Ring in mine I can still hear the whistle up around 25-35 PSI very clearly. But cruising it rather silent.

Nice to hear there is other options for fixing transmissions!

:lmao:About "Kicking to the curb". But as for the fuel is there possibly of water?

I had a outerwears for about 6 months and got tired of it really quick and chuck it in the trash. My 1st BHAF lasted for 135K miles and 7 years without much problem even with all the Idaho dirt roads I travel. 2nd filter barely had 24K on it and changed it because I didn't want to take chances with my new turbo of any debris being in the old BHAF. 3rd Filter is on and less than 1K miles on it.

HY35 you would have to tie it closed or use a J hook. But HX35 I would suggest using a adjustable boost elbow and keeping the MAX boost to 35 or so. Beyond that you looking for trouble for the HX35. As for the HY35 I would limit to about 30 PSI for safety.Remember more boost doesn't mean more power.

I'm really against any washable filter. Everytime you wash the filter your breaking down the media. There is no way for the owner to know when the media has failed till there is dirt inside the turbo which is too late. I totally agree BHAF is the best option and no chance of oil problems, media problems because a BHAF will last 100K miles of Idaho back country dirt roads. When it does get dirty throw it way and buy another filter. At $50 bucks a wack isn't bad for a filter that will last 100k miles.

I know it can be done... But its not suggested. It wears the syncro's quicker.

Your one of the few that got bold and double stacked two real boxes... So yeah I'll have to agree with you...

Sound like you did it right its just there is something wrong with that PCM.

As for the over charging issues there is something grounding the green lead? If so then the alternator will be in full runaway mode. The blue wire is the power supply to excite the rotor in the alternator. So at the GEN SOURCE and the GEN FIELD of the PCM would be where you hook the External Voltage Regulator. As you can see you need the blue wire which is the 12V and the Green wire is going to be a variable ground. If its shorted to ground then you got a runaway alternator. So I would think the regulator is fried if so.

More times out of ten the suction line from the lift pump to the fuel tank is where the air leak starts at typically. When it does develop a air leak the fuel never leaks outwards and typically will have dry lines and no sign of problems. But now pressure the fuel system and now you'll see the wet spots form. What I suggest is get the truck running and pressure the fuel tank with 1-2 PSI of air through the filler neck and then have a partner crawl around looking for the wet spot. Reason I suggest having the truck running is if the fuel suction line is leaking air in that means if you pressure the fuel tank it may or may not run fuel back out. But if the fuel system is flow to and from the engine and you pressurize the system it should show quickly.

I didn't I just made sure the head and the area around the holes was clean and reused mine. But I do know there was a TSB for connector tube for the 98.5 and 99 year trucks because it was easy to deform the tubes tighten the lines up.

Something about the regulators on the Raptor pumps and the AD 165's that are goofy... I've seen this a bunch but never heard of what causes it nor the fix for it.

Smarty is one of the most safest programmers I know of. But still weird things can happen to disable ot hang the ECM from rebooting again. So Yeah I've tried a Smarty (Bob Wagner's) and was impressed with power gains but the clutch at the time didn't like it. So I return to stock and mailed it back. So not to discount the Smarty... But I tend to feel safer with wired in electronics than flashed in. But if the Smart UDC came out for the 24V's I would be interested then. Better way of tuning the timing tables that what I got now.

Do a instrument cluster test. If the cluster is getting a different reading its because I think the PCM is screwed up and mis-reporting the voltage of the system.

Personally... I would high suggest you take that K&N out and throw it in the trash. Not a good filter at all. I've seen way too many good Cummins ruin with blow by problems because the K&N filter just wore the ring off the pistons which in turn now push more oil out the breather tube. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/24-air-system/41-bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter

No. Typically the WTS light should always come for a bulb check even for a few seconds. But I was wonder want the ECM was seeing or what???

Like over at CumminsForum there is a craze to install group 31 batteries right now. Everyone is in the CCA race now trying to get over 2000 CCA's in the truck. The rule of thumb is you need at least twice as many CCA's as your worse starting load. These truck typically measure out at 700 amps load at 0*F so all you need is 1400 CCA's worth of batteries. Like myself I've got two 810 CCA's for a total 1620 CCA's. Spending twice as much on a 31 batteries is not going to make the batteries last longer. That's all based on if you take care of the batteries properly in the first place.

My Nv4500 when I installed the shift tower seal up-side-down then mine leaked like no tomorrow I could add a quart every 100-200 miles easy. All it took was ordering a new seal and pay attention to which way it goes together.

There is a few things here to remember...Volt gauge is getting the information from the CCD network just like the ScanGauge II. Now the mechanical needle could be out of position. Or the Instrument cluster is not translating it accurately. :shrug:DVM at the batteries is the best bet. Yes. Even my ScanGauge II vs. Dash shows 2 different numbers as well. Worse on the 96 than the 02.

Correct.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=401FaKYvJ6c

Sorry for the lag. Something is wrong with the setup of the external voltage regulator. The first thing is the blue lead is suppose to be positive voltage +12. Typically you can tap the existing blue lead for this 12 volts. As for the green wire it should be only hooked between the alternator and the new regulator. The old green should be disconnected. P1682 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/224-p1682-charging-system-voltage-too-low P0622 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/205-p0622-generator-field-not-switching-properly p0500 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/190-p0500-no-vehicle-speed-sensor-signal p1765 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/388-p1765-trans-12-volt-supply-relay-cntrl-circuit p0501 http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/191-p0501-vehicle-speed-signal-rationality The 1765 and P0622 worry me. You should look into those a bit deep and see if there is a blue wire supply problem.