Mopar1973Man

Well lets see what happen when they do or if the do start production of these filters... :confused: It would be nice though... :D

That's awesome to know... Most of the time I get asked about this and so far you and few other now are starting to leak out information of emmission testing with 2 cycle oil... :thumbsup

Well your hitting that mark for sure... LOL Ok a little verification... If the fuel your getting was at typical standards 520 HFRR than if you mixed at 200:1 you would hit at (520-162) = 358 HFRR But being you doubling you doze to the chart then it would be roughly (520 - (162 x 2)) = 196 HFRR. So in simple nmath your covered well even...

I got your answer the LiveOak... :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm

Pretty nasty eh? That fact that Bosch had done there homework long ago and found out the all US Fuel don't pass HFRR testing even before the ULSD started. ;)

Actually that was a mis print... I called PureFlow Tech. and got the update listing... Baldwin filter don't exist... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm Bottom of the page...

Yeah you right as emmission testing becomes a issue in your areas it will get tougher and tougher... so far out here it still rather quiet and nothing being said as far as emssion testing. The larger cities like Boise, ID does testing but I'm luck and live nearly 200 miles away... But as for 2 cycle oil usuage here I get weird look anyways... LOL

Well that would address the rusting problem... Like here we use a lot of salt and Mag Clorine for de-icer...So now how about the bracket do you come up with a source??? :confused:

Hmmm... side like you going to a wrecking yard to dig for part aren't ya??? But I'll give this much... Every weekend when I was my truck I wash the truck... I wash the body, engine and even under the body and frame... But knowing you got issues with your legs and all... I heard of some guys parking there truck on the lawn and sliding a sprinkler under the truck and let it run. It does work it will knock most of the mud off and keep it clean.. But since your down to rust now I would look into getting it undercoated when you can...

This should get you covered... http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/maint/2nd_Gen-12v.htm 12V require more valve adjustment that 24V... But here is my write up for a 24V and it really close to the 12V... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... ve-adj.htm

Oh Boy the document I was looking for... Quick summary of why IP pump and injections fail in Bosch eyes is the fuel lubricity is too LOW!!!! Here you go gang Bosch did testing on USA fuel and don't even come close to the standards of Europe fuel... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=5

If the rear e-brake shoe or out of adjustment the pedal doesn't alway return properly either... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... -brake.htm But typically in cold weather the cable does get stick and hang up. Sometimes you just got to park it a in a warm shop and wash the cables down and the dirt and grit off them. Then the pedal returns normally. I have this problem out here in the cold days of Idaho. I start out in Riggins, ID where is 45*F and raining and head back to New Meadows, ID where its 20*F and snowing now all that road grime and ice is form up on the cables. Now I set my brake (manual trans) and park it for the night. Next morning the brake won't release properly. BRAKE light on yet and the pedal hanging down...

Well so far this winter I've been down to about 0*F with SuperTech and no issues either. Not to mention my AirDog 150 is unheated and no problems with filter plugging... :thumbsup

2.479 here in Riggins, ID if the Chevron was open... :rolleyes Now i'm below 1/4 tank and getting down to the point were I start sucking air below 1/8 of tank... :mad Oh well... Live and learn...

Possible... It always possible to have a tank of poor produced fuel... :confused:

Like I read over that PDF already... The biggest thing is the viscosity of the fuel changes spray patternes of the injectors. So as the B5 starts thickening up the pattern narrows... It seem like all BIO fuels have a short comings... Like ethanol is greatly reduced in BTU content. BioDiesel is also short in BTU content, gels easy, cause injector problems if produced wrong.... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=117

Well without much for information... Bad ground, weak batteries, weak charging system... (Possiblity) Loose or corroded wiring... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... ircuit.htm (This will work anywhere in the electrical system for testing weak connections or bad wires!) Heat effecting the electronics (VP44 or ECM) but error codes typically point this out. Fuel pump problems... No the little white plastic hub isn't suppose to come out... It's glued in at the factory but most of the fuel additives tend to break down the glue and the plastic hub starts to spin inside the hub so you hear the pump buzz but it doing nothing. This can happen randomly too..

I think a bunch of mine is these Cooper STT tire and running them slightly soft right now for winter traction. But as for my front end It still feels tight but is seem to wander back and forth in the trucker grooves in the asphalt... Or is it just the highway my problem??? :confused:

Hmmm... Sound like a few possible thing could be happening... Cam or Crank sensor is going out on you... If the tach drops to zero usually the cam or crank sensor is to blame but typically there is a error code. P1693 means there is a error code in either ECM or PCM or both. That all the code means... But if you using a code reader like a ScanGauge II it should pickup all the codes for you... As for the lack of power that automatically points to fuel supply problem either the lift pump, VP44, or filter is plugged Here is how to test your lift pump... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... p-daig.htm You need to keep at least 10 PSI at the VP44 to keep it happy... As for the previous APPS post well that would have a P0121, P0122, or P0123 error code pointing to failed APPS...

About how much did it cost???

Fixed...

There is no reason for injector cleaners... If there is a concern of dirt entering the injecotrs that upgrade your fuel filter to 2-3 microns once you done that there is zero concerns for injector cleaners ever again. But as for the fuel lubricant... Today's fuel is short in fuel lubicity and will remain that way for a long time. So 2 cycle oil should be used every tank... Mixing any cetane booster, injector cleaner, or anti-gel with 2 cycle oil just cancels out the 2 cycle and the additive... Cetane Booster - Increase cetane levels and reduces BTU's 2 Cycle Oil - Decreases Cetane and increase BTU's Injector Cleaner - Decrease lubricity 2 Cycle Oil - Increases lubricity

For those guys that have filter minders or BHAF with a filter minder. I made a short video how to test your filter minder... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/ ... f/bhaf.htm You'll find that the suction is about the same amount as would put on a drinking straw in a large drink. EDIT LINK corrected...

Got ya cover with a write up on how to replace and where to find a cheap one for less than $200 bucks! :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... s/apps.htm Retro-fit APPS sensor for less! :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... cement.htm

Remember you got the holes in the bumper and then the gap between the grill and bumper. so no it takes quite a bit to over heat it... But it block and lot of cold air from blowing in.