Mopar1973Man

The biggest thing I was taught during the purchase of my Jayco I'm currently owning is to look at construction first. So Jayco was the only one at the with double square tube frame. Avoid "ULTRA LITES" frames are typically weaker. Then everything in side is heavy duty wood. No cheap thin lua panel for seating. Mine is all 3/8 plywood at least. This makes the RV heavy but durable. Then after that look at floor plans and bed sizes. I'm a tall guy at 6'2" so I wore a cowboy hat that day if my hat was knocked off easy the the items on the ceiling or roof was too low. Then beds double check some RV have some short beds. Like my jack-knife couch is ok to sit on but for me to lay in the bed I've got to lay diagonal. Master bed is a true queen bed. My holding tank are bigger than my water supply which is good rare to over fill a waste tank. 50 gallons of water can be just enough for 1 person for 8 days if done properly. I tend to prefer bumper pulls since there is only 12 to 15% tongue weight on the truck. Where as 5th wheel you have at least 25% trailer weight on the truck. Not to mention bumper pull I can load the ATV in the bed of the truck where the 5th wheel would force me to buy a toy hauler. These aren't so great either. If you have your machines tied to the deck typically your living area smell like fuel and oil. Rather keep the ATV in the bed of the truck not in my living quarters.

IOD fuse covers that plug. So if the interior lights work the plug has power. The ground is in the key panel if the headlights work the the ground it good. Beyond that is pure communication pins.

Typically guys that are rolling coal are considered poor tuners. Smoke is NOT a sign of good power. Smoke is a sign of improper timing and excessive fuel mapping for said amount of boost. A majority of the dash functions are communicated over the CCD Network. You need to hold the trip pin down, then turn the key on. When the odometer says CHEC then release the pin and watch. Afterwords it will show error code in the 3 digit 900 range. This will test the cluster for communication and internal functions.

Don't buy new. Like another member bought a new 2019 Chevy motorhome. He's spent more time back to the dealer with repairs. Roof water leaks Cab water leaks Sewage leak under the toilet into the floor. Dump valve installed wrong Dust leaks in rear storage areas And the list continues... Like my Dad bought the 1976 Dodge motorhome. Roof water leaks Propane leak caused facial burns Stereo speakers failed twice Water pump failed Sewage tank bands broke List goes on... Bought my 2000 Jayco in 2010 and only had a few minor repairs Small water leak silicone fixed Slide rack sheared a pin Small water leak near hose connector. Beyond that I've upgraded more... 1200 watt inverter 45 watt solar system Small flat screen TV LED lights throughout the RV

I was burning oil enough that it would leave a oily residue on the tailgate on the passenger side. Fog out a parking lot on start up. Smells of rich burnt engine oil. About 1 quart every 7 to 9k miles.

I had 18 valve guides replaced. You need to do the valve guide other than that the movement of the valves will destroy the new seals.

Got it... Neighbors doing there job. So CUTE valentine package...

For my tune to work for you... You would have to be on... 30" inch tires (245/75 R16) - your final ratio is too low. No lift, stock rake. - Your frontal area is too big. The whole problem is your final gear ratio is too low. Then with 4 inch lift you standing up in the wind too high. Like myself my final gear ratio to the ground is 3.69:1 vs your 3.21:1 this will add engine load considerably. Then the 4 inch lift will add to you frontal area drag calc. II have been twisting out 19 to 20 MPG at 80 MPH on the interstate twisting nearly a perfect 2,500 RPM's. I can typically keep my engine load below 25%. EGT's typically are about 600*F.

I've got a few campgrounds around here I would love to visit again and post up. I've got one really close to home that is up Smokey Boulder road. It a unmarked campground and it right beside brush creek. Very quiet place typically through the summer. No hook ups totally on your own.

Aftermarket wheels are not a good option not knowing if they were balanced properly. Turbos spin quite high RPMs and cheap wheels could do damage or spin apart or just explode.

Fluid isn't an issue being that is the fluid he wants used in the transmission for warranty purpose. Clutch seems to be fine. I can allow the transmission to spin in neutral and press the clutch down and select any gear but 2nd gear. Like the synchro is not working. When I pull it this time I'll pull the clutch and check all bearings and plates. I bought all synchro in brass but 1st and 2and are carbon fiber. I paid 124 dollars for all new synchro on the main shaft. Being 3rd and 4th last time now it's 2and. So it was R&R last time with new shaft bearings and fresh synchro. Hydros are working excellent being the pedal only needs half stroke to be fully disengaged. Clutch engagesway high on the pedal. As for me I'm in McCall dealing with medical appointments. Snowing quite well and depending on where your at it's either a warning or advisory for winter storms.

No it is not normal. Fuel pressure low like that typically a bad pump or possibly air leaking in. Air bubbles are compressible and will make the pressure lower. You could add a loop of clear tubing to look for air bubbles or foamy fuel.

Like today I've got to cancel working and take mom to her medical appointments. Snowing and going to be slick in McCall. I've got the only 4WD vehicle right now till I can get time to fix the 1996 Dodge then I would of just let Eileen take the 1996 Dodge. I'm currently buried in more work than I can handle. Between needing time chasing medical offices, paperwork on Power Of Attorneys, and keeping bills paid between the 3 of us. I've gotta say thanks to you BoDs for the new Samsung S10+ phone. It's been used a considerable amount already. Then I've got to pull my transmission again 2and gear synchro is screwing up. Already contacted Weller truck and got to get the 1996 Dodge running first. Then I can visit the other shop and use the 2 post this time. Barely lasted 800 miles.

Excessive AC noise comes out as a cruise control surge because the tach signal is a AC signal and the alternator noise will flood the PCM and ECM with noise fouling everything from transmission shift issues to even speedometer issues.

PCM only charges what it needs. The charging system is basically the same from 1963. The only difference we have battery temp sensor where old school used air temp around the external regulator which was poor design at best. Typically 13.2 at the lowest and 14.8 at the highest.

Well I went on @AH64ID suggestion and took a trip on down to Durobilt yesterday with the alternator from the 1996 Dodge 1500. Its a small shop in Nampa ID. Amazing to walk in and look at his stock he carries everything for starter and alternator from small cars to full size industrial application. Now moving on to my alternator he bench it quickly and it passed. I quickly told him I was having high AC noise issues. So he hands off the alternator to his crew man there while he show me around the building. Within about 2 to 3 minutes his employee had it pulled apart and the brushes were at thew limits just barely making contact. This would be my source of AC noise from the arcing of the brushes. He cleans up the slip rings and installs a new set of brushes. Re-test and good to go. Maybe 15 minutes total. My total cost was $40.50 for that alternator fix. That was way cheaper than a full replacement. Thank you @AH64ID for the suggestion that was worth it!

Serious issue. There should be a 140A fuse protecting the alternator in the PDC. Is the alternator fuse in place? Has there been any electrical modified? Large electrical loads added like winch or high wattage lighting? Even with the W-T ground mod I used a 150A circuit breaker on the charge lead. It's mounted behind the passenger battery tray facing the firewall. Side notes. I just had a alternator rebuilt and talking to the rebuilder and he told me alternator diodes or alternator failure is typically other electric issue like bad grounds or bad connection that backfeeds the electrical system causing the damage. It is not common for alternator failure and it should be investigated deeper.

Ummm... Not seen. Eileen was home all day unless its in the mail that my neighbor picks up. I'll look today. As for returning back to the oil temp the lowest I got was running +2*F outside, winter front, and the oil temp was 162*F and so was the oil filter measured with IR gun. On the way home in 40*F weather it was 171*F maxed out climbing 6% grade. I've even bumped the timing up trying a tweak in my winter tune. Coolant still running 192*F to 195*F constantly. Double check and triple checked that temperature is absolutely correct. The only thing I can say is this is the oil AFTER the cooler. Being the radiator on the suction side is cool to the touch. But yes that temperature shown by the Quadzilla is 100% correct.

It could be air leak in the suction side of the pump. He mentions that the fuel pressure gets unstable then it stalls. I've seen a truck with a bad pick up tube in the tank and would do something similar and start bouncing fuel pressure and then die. The fuel gauge still shows 3/8 of a tank and the tank had fuel but the stock pick up tube was cracked and get low enough it would suck air and quit. I would look towards filling the tank and trying again. Also after filling the tank and it stands for a period of time look at all the external plumbing on the frame rail and up for moisture or possible outward leaks. Suction side plumbing typically will not leak outwards but constantly sucking air inwards even parked. This makes it difficult but not impossible to find. On a partial tank use a shop vacuum and reverse it to the blow. Using the hose you can pressurize the fuel tank. This will help in finding any external leaks possibly. Fuel pressure should not bounce or change a bunch while driving.

Haven't seen it yet... most likely will some time.

Hence why CAD axle design has been obsoleted and no longer used. All future trucks are all solid axle design now.

No there is no loss to perma-locked axle. When my high mark on the diesel is 27.2 MPG. Typically doing 19 to 20 MPG.

More... So yeah I went back to work on trucks. Still MoparMom is going downhill. This is going to expand more medical appointments. Now this is where Eileen is filling the void she is running MoparMom to her appointments today. I was working on transmission cooler lines and looking for oil smell on another 4the gen...

I've got a CAD axle in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and absolutely hate the dang thing. Sometimes it will lock quickly and then fight to get it unlocked for +10 miles. I've replaced the vacuum motor, fork shoes, double check vacuum lines. Still a pain in the tail to get locked and unlocked. I agree with Evan either consider manual cable control or change axle. Another rare one is be climbing a grade but the manifold vacuum is low and have it unlock the axles when you least expect it and really need the 4WD. 2002 Dodge with a solid axles never a single problem. Clutch in shift to 4WD. Click. Clutch in and shift to 2WD no problem. Never hangs up or have any issues with locking into 4WD or 2WD. Works every time.

Back to the shop and still behind... 3rd gen truck with trans cooler line leak. What a pain in the tail. The fuel filter has to come out then the starter. Oh my gawd Mopar really screwed the pooch on this lay out. I've got the long line stuck and can't get it out of the truck yet. Stopped and came home for lunch after being rained on with melting snow and ATF+4.