Mopar1973Man

As for the Quadzilla it locks the MAX fuel to 0 PSI boost value in the tune. Then once the Coolant rises above the set temperature then the entire fuel table is enabled. This always you to drive with the warm up mode and keeping the fuel limited till the engine is warmed up to the set value. WARNING: Do not use both the Cummins high idle and Quadzilla high idle together. The 3 CYL mode will cause serious issues and possibly lose prime on the injection pump. Like myself once down to closer to 0*F I disable the Quadzilla and use the Cummins ECM high idle. This prevents the clash of the two different softwares and possibly losing prime on the injection pump.

Quadzilla only uses coolant. IAT is NOT used. Cummins ECM uses both Coolant, IAT temperature and battery temperature. With the high idle switch it FORCES the ECT and IAT values to... 6 CYL - 123*F coolant and 26*F IAT 3 CYL - only sets 13*F for IAT coolant is not altered. The reason for that is the 6 CYL mode can be held forever. The 3 CYL mode should not be held being it creates upwards of 600*F pyro without an exhaust brake and well above 900*F with an exhaust brake. This will make warm up time even faster than Quadzilla can do. All safety system are still in affect. Movement will cancel. throttle touched will cancel. Excessive engine load will cancel. Trans in gear (Auto only) will cancel. Brake pedal pressed will cancel. Quadzilla just monitors the engine coolant... If below you set number it will ramp up to 1,200 RPM. That all. (2002 Dodge Ram) Movement will cancel. Throttle will cancel.

Quadzilla works from the temperature setting and the time delay setting. So if the engine coolant is below say you set 170*F then it will arm the high idle. Then wait say 30 seconds to engage the high idle. Now the Cummins high idle will arm at temps below 170*F and engage 6 cylinder high idle if the IAT is below 32*F. Then engage 3 cylinder high idle if the IAT is below 15*F. This is of course with grid heaters running so the outside temperatures would be much colder yet. Hence why my high idle switch came to life... Give manual control of the high idle mode by the flick of a switch.

Not sure what to say... Maybe double back to Rockauto and ask. Year One maybe?

Still on the the set I installed way back at 180k or so. I'm currently at 406k miles and still rolling.

Long time ago I was fighting a Edge Comp problem. I replaced the MAP sensor and didn't fix the problem. To this day I still got both MAP sensors and both still working as designed. Still even those days I can still bat out 18 MPG but I'm limited to 80 MPH with my tire and gear ratio which lands at 2,500 RPMs. I'm still baffled at just a mere 13 MPG. That what I get dragging my 8,000 pound RV that is 31 foot long. That just gives you an idea of the amount of drag you are fighting.

I've been using this method on NAPA master and slave cylinders. Works good and never had an issue.

If you running one battery you going to have to measure and rethink the AWG size of the wire. Might go up in size to cover voltage loss to the other size.

No problems here. @Wet Vette has had the Cummins training and capable of driving my manual transmission truck. I just enjoy the ride in the passenger seat which is like 400% more comfortable.

NEVER!!!

Hmmm... Wonder why I never have that issues running between Boise, ID and Ontario, OR. ???

Brake fluid is not a life long fluid. It will absorb water over its life and reduced the boiling point of the brake fluid. As it continues to absorb water it will foul the rubber and cause it to degrade the rubber lines and rust the steel line from the insides. Bleeding will push all the trash into the calipers and wheel cylinder which is why you need to break it all down to clean the debris out as well. It will bind up caliper pistons. There is less than 0.001 space in some cases where the brake fluid has caked on to the pistons and jam them causing drag. Weird but true... Brake fluid, power steering fluid and coolant are the most forgotten fluids on vehicles.

Ok so is the brake fluid a dark color or black? Then you brake fluid is contaminated with water and rubber. Needs to be flushed out at every 30k miles. Here is my article on how to get the bleed done and clean the caliper. I don't have rear drum but it would be the same.

IR temp guns are much safer than getting burnt. Any drag will produce heat, heat is the change of work energy into heat energy.

Jump to a full Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner. The timing is way more important that just the fuel. You could get the timing tweaked in with stock injectors and stock fuel and still make a good 2 MPG gain. Skip the boost fooler and the Edge EZ box. This will trap you with only stock or small injectors. Like myself I'm running a 7 x 0.010 (150 HP) injectors and still making 19 to 20 MPG with winter fuel. Tipping right around 500 HP. My daily tune is very mellow and does excellent for performance (MPG). I can turn up the power and then I could beat 4th gens without a thought. Oh yeah, I do it smokeless.

Yup its there too...

350*F will shut off instantly in a drive thru condition.

Ummm... Working as designed... I checked all the backend setting and all are set for open forums and visible. Then check on my phone... Hamburger menu -> Forums -> Clubs

Yeah I've dealt with this issue with my landlord's truck. He runs to the salt flats for the event down there. Then ask me to change tires for him or do brake work. The hubs are badly rusted and takes a full size sledgehammer to free the tires from the hubs even the front hubs.

@Hawkez Amen brother... Amen!

This will fix that... Also replace your alternator the diodes are damaged!

Welcome to the family here... Ask any question I promise someone will help ya...

Small correction. Lvl 2 = Canbus fuel only to 100% and timing.

I've got the old school ball and spring with ZERO issues on pressure and fairly stable. Running a AirDog 165 pump on the AirDog 150 body no issues.

I would of opted for DOT4 vs Synthetic brake fluid. At least with DOT4 you can withstand more brake fluid temperature and few other bonuses. DOT5 is the extreme brake fluid with the highest boiling point for brake fluid. Most applications call for a DOT3 (401F dry/284F wet) or DOT4 (446F dry/311F wet) fluid, which is considered a higher performance fluid since it can handle more heat. While both fluids are glycol ether based, DOT4 contains a certain amount of borate ester which allows it to handle more heat. DOT5 is a silicone-based fluid that was developed for use where moisture or water was almost certain to be a factor in the braking system, such as military applications. While DOT5 has a higher boiling point (500F dry/356F wet) than DOT3 or DOT4, DOT5 exhibits more compressibility than glycol ether brake fluid. There are DOT4 fluids with boiling points that exceed DOT5 so there’s really no need to consider using DOT5 for on-road use. DOT3 and DOT 4 cannot be mixed with DOT5 fluid. They are incompatible and if mixed, brake failure may occur. Moreover, there are serious compatibility issues when using DOT5 in a system that was engineered to use DOT3 or DOT4. Also, users should take care not to mix DOT3 and DOT4 fluids as there may be brake system compatibility issues. Always consult your owners manual and use the type of fluid specified for your vehicle.