Mopar1973Man

All I can do is dream of camping... Last camping trip was back when we all go together for the eclipse.

Could replace the cord pretty cheap like 17 dollars. Very rare for the element to fail.

Dump the APPS you and buy a Timbo's apps. There is no voltage to set. Currently your in throttling mode hence the high idle. I would just ditch that apps.

Finally yesterday started to look more normal again. Got up early got a bit of web work done for the morning. Paid a few bills. Then took off for a job in Pollock, ID. Local gent want me to look at his daughter Ford Focus. It has 2 misfire codes for cylinder 2 and 4. I had to walk away from it being I don't have a ton of knowledge on Ford vehicles. Then I ran back to my other shop which I knew I had a Dodge truck with leaking transmission lines. I grabbed my cellphone and stood right next to the network extender I had no cell service and could not place any phone calls. I asked Russ the land owner if his phone worked pulls out his cell phone and he's got 5 bars. When I was in town my referral contact in Riggins was telling me of complains that I'm not answering my phone or returning calls. Kind of hard when there is no cell signal on my phone. Like as I sit here my network extender is less than 3 feet away. So I had to leave Russ's shop and head home to place the call on a land line being my cellphone crapped out. Then later started working again. Thing is with my cellphone instead of calling customers to come back and see parts or issues I can snap a photo and text it to them and then I get go ahead for parts or what not. This now make life easy for me because I can work from either shop and never have to fight with communications (different phone numbers). Also that text messages and notes follow me. I originally started with a notebook at each but found myself having the notes left behind at either shop and constantly running back and forth. Cellphone follows me with all my contacts and notes. So I return to Russ's place to finish the Dodge for now and kick it out to load up a Ford with coolant leak. After looking it over I need to replace the coolant manifold gaskets that tie the heads together. But that is going to require lots of time to remove a ton of stuff. It got returned to the owner for now since she needs the vehicle for heading to Spokane. As it goes home its barely weeping with all that I could do to abuse it and get coolant pressures up. Yeah scary though I bought a Ford home to yard full of Dodge's I had to hid my face in a paper bag so no one knew! Then flipped switch and went old school and working on a older Chevy van with headlight issues. I thought it was dimmer switch for sure but sad to say it was both headlight were blown. The plugs were oxidized enough to give the illusion of no power on the hi beam leg. So after wasting about an hour I got it all put back together and good headlights and both hi and lo beams working. Now this morning I started at 4:30am with both of my hips hurting and my lower back from all the bench pressing I did on my truck on Sunday. Gotta roll to Ontario being Mom skipped on Saturday being my 1996 Dodge broke down with a bad alternator and the AC noise was so bad it was pulling the trans all the way down to 2nd gear randomly. If I drive at 30 MPH it would stay in 4th gear. So 65 mile trip took nearly 2 hours to get back home. Now the Cummins is running again. @AH64ID posted up about a alternator rebuilt Durobilt in Nampa which I'm willing to try. Sad I didn't have the time yesterday to pull that alternator. So it on hold again. This is the part that annoys me is everyone else problems are fixed in a timely manner but when it comes to my own stuff I'm having to wait. Hence being with the Cummins since Jan 4. Weller had it done in 1 day. Then have the transmission hang on the hoist till Jan 26th. Rather frustrating.

Once bio gels it will separate and sink to the bottom of the tank. Far as I know there is no product for gelled biodiesel that will bring it back to liquid.

Simple way... Amount of gallons you pumped in your tank is the number of ounces to put in. If you filled you tank and pumped 20.589 you would put in 20 ounces of oil. Just remember 50:1 ratio is common for most chainsaws and protects the entire engine from wear with GASOLINE at high RPM's. Now with diesel fuel 128:1 is more than enough for the 24V engine. For CR engines you gotta drop to 200:1 because of the multi-injection events tends to add to much oil to the cylinder. As for HFRR numbers todays fuel is ~520 HFRR from the pump. Bosch requires <460 HFRR and a 128:1 shot of 2 cycle oil will get you roughly to 380 HFRR. DO NOT USE - ATF or Waste Engine Oil. Both of these have extremely high levels of ash and will plug up injectors and leave ash deposits on the crowns of the pistons.

Just because the speed limit is 65 MPH don't always expect the highway to be clear of deer, elk, rocks, trees, etc. You never know... Like last night a truck wiped out a DUCK. Yup a duck... Broke his windshield I bet.

Actually there is something you can do. You need to gather everyone up in your state and contact you state transportation board and complain about the salt usage and you want the state to stop using salt. Don't just talk about your vehicle but also make sure to bring up how its damaging the highways, bridges, and vegetation along the highway. If there is a enough complaints then they must stop the salt usage. I'm working on do this right now in my own area because Idaho never used salt till about 5 years ago. The biggest impact out here is the salt is messing with salmon and steelhead population in the rivers, the highways are not making it a year without major damage. This is because the salt keeps the dirt under the asphalt liquid hence big potholes can form. Then there is the rusting of vehicles now you might get bids for repair of your vehicles and submit them to the state. This should wake them up if you have hundreds of people doing it.

Go down. 265's on 3.55 tend to wear front suspension more. 235's I ran for many years really did extend the brakes and way better traction. Now dropping down to 245/75 R16 on the truck changes the final gearing to 3.69:1 to the ground producing more torque to the ground. This little mod just allows more power out to the ground, and reduced drive line stress. Yeah, I know I've managed to snap 5th gear off at 80 MPH. But that gear had over 350k miles on it... Metal fatigue... There is all kinds of stuff you can do without going up in huge HP injectors and twin turbos...

Thanks @AH64ID... I gave them a call and he's asking $140 to rebuild my alternator which is about the same price from NAPA for $133. The guy is really tough to understand with a heavy accent.

Thank you. I was original just my notebook of answers as time went on it kept growing. The membership pool is what created the standards not me. Like myself I'm long haul as well doing at least 1,200 miles a week. I'm right around 500 HP and getting just about 19 to 20 MPG all winter long. As the odometer says 407k miles the last time I looked. My designs if you follow... I'm more built around longevity and reliability than performance. Hence why the smaller tires and good high marks for part life. My high mark is 27.2 MPG most of the parts on the truck last quite a long time like brakes at 180k to 200k.

Don't jump ship if you don't have too... If you do have to bail out your always welcome to hang out.

Bit of a difference @dripley most likely has a EV1 series. I'm running the EV2 series gauge. The panel light is USB programmable in the gauge plus the RED warning light is programmable for any range on the gauge. You can also USB program the needle movement speed.

Ok settle down gang geez... Long way from in caught up condition. I'm early this morning so I can make phone calls and pay bills. Like the $400 a month to St. Lukes so I keep my house. Then the insurance company too. We did test run the Cummins into town and did some grocery shopping for basics to get by till Tuesday. Ran good. Clutch actually working much better can't explain why being I never even pulled the bell housing off the engine. Syncros wise it was a full set of brass syncro and 1st and 2nd still remain carbon fiber. For what ever reason 3rd and 4th gear syncros wear damaged. I'm back to running Mobil 50 again since Weller truck will not warranty with Valvoline MTF or PennzOil Synromech. Moving on. Eileen was down in the guest house cleaning up some more after we moved up to the main house. She was working to getting back to a guest quarters condition again. She is getting better with energy wise. She is starting to gain her strength back. Tough diet when you use to eating anything now has to be super lean and fat free everything. We are both trying to loss a bit of weight and I'm already lost 15 pounds. Eileen's lost at least 20 pounds. At least now I've got the good truck that is cheaper to drive. After making the nearly a month of using the 1996 Dodge it was still 19 cents a mile to drive and took two fill ups in a day to make New Meadows to Ontario - FILL - Ontario to Boise and back Ontario - FILL then I could make it home and back again to Ontario where fill is nearly 40 cents cheaper a gallon. The Cummins is only 17 cents a mile. The 1996 Dodge needs a lot of work. I'm going to put LED bulbs in that truck. After a month of $65 SilverStar headlights they SUCK! I just can't see safely. Also going to install a set of PIAA LED's driving later but for now I'm going for a set of LED headlights. The other big price tag item is a new fuel pump. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DFPFG0212?partTypeName=Fuel+Pump&keywordInput=fuel+pump I'm tired of the crappy fuel gauge and that pump is the factory pump and really need to replace it being the fuel filter is part of that assembly. 186k miles I think the filter might be partial plugged, the fuel gauge half works, and I really don't want to break down because of a fuel pump. Also the alternator that is fried... Then at 10am today I've got to stop by a friends place and look at his daughter Ford Focus with a rash of error codes and misfire conditions. Then make sure I get back and get ready for tomorrows run to Ontario I still got to move everything from one truck to the other truck. I want to make a mention about the tires on the 1996 Truck those are AWESOME. Those little 215/85 R16 are some rocking snow tires and track like they are on rails even with snow covered highways. Many times of rolling home in snow storms and still running 55 to 60 MPH while everyone else is in pain mode and down to 35 and 40 MPH. Skinny tires do work and work extremely well.

No. Single torque.Even ARP's page says if you torqued them right there is no reason for second torque. Also never do a hot torque.

Just finished up at 2:30pm today. Shifting smooth once again. None of them are. McCall, Idaho NAPA has a 7% sales tax and prices are higher. But semi local only 1.5 hour round trip. Council, Idaho NAPA again bit better prices only 6% tax. This is a 2 hour round trip. Ontario, Oregon NAPA even better prices. No sales taxes at all. Then for every 100 dollars I spend I get 5$ off the total purchase. 6 hour round trip. So I tend to wait till my dialysis cycle for parts because prices are just way better. I'm now getting some ground back. Since I got the Cummins back up I can get stuff done here at home. Eventually I need to get back to work too... Paying work...

Not sure but Module masters will test everything to see what is going on. If the circuit isn't damaged they will let you know.

Above 20 PSI you not improving anything. There return port back is too small for any more than 20 PSI. Now below this your going to be building more pressure in the VP44 casing. It very possible to blow the front shaft seal out.

My suggestion is just remove the the ABS module. You can have it sent out and rebuilt for a mere $130 by Module Master in Moscow, Idaho. https://www.google.com/search?q=module+masters https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/brakes/abs-modules/abs-kh-dodge/

Correct way...

Voltage is only used to control the IVS (Idle Validation Switches). The Timbo APPS has zero circuits and completely mechanical APPS. No electronics. The voltage has ZERO to do with transmission shift points or anything.

After doing my research Cummins or Mopar has never manufactured thermostats. Cummins has changed at least 4 to 5 times different manufacture they sell. Then digging to the manufacture of the actual thermostats you find out that Cummins used companies like Motorrad, Mr. Gasket, Robertshaw, etc. Funny how everyone claims that Cummins or Mopar Thermostat is better but NO ONE has even checked on who manufacturing said thermostat. As for specs the only spec is the temperature. Being that opening size and volume restriction has changed every time they changed companies. I've replace a few stock thermostats for people and always shocked at all the different designs... Now for my 200*F like I said was a Gates. It only lasted 1 week or so. I think I've chucked it out already.

Yes. The more metallics or ceramics in the pad causes more wear on the rotors. Absolutely... My factory OEM rotors lasted 350k miles. The Jacobs brake provided by Dodge Dealer back in 2002. If I was to purchase one today I would buy the PacBrake PRXB which I would consider the best you could get today. Just remember 99% of everything is manufacture in China or similar.

No true. Cummins does NOT manufacture any thermostats.

This accident occurred just a mere 8 miles from my place to the south. Take notice to the huge boulder its taller than my truck even.