Mopar1973Man

Could be "Limited Throttle" which could be a failed ECM and/or failed VP44. I would check for error codes.

WTS not coming on is a dead ECM. The first instruction is to power up the WAIT TO START light and set the grid heaters. It will not start till the ECM boots up and sets the WAIT TO START light.

Not something I would suggest. The fluid leaking from the transfer case would be a problem.

Dodge FSM book has there method of changing which is fine. My article I've wrote will save a bit of time. Shop labor rate for VP44 replacement is 4 hours. I'm capable now of changing a VP44 injection pump in a merew 1.5 hours now in a hay field in a rainstorm (personal record). All the tools should be shown in the article. The only special tools is a 1/2" torque wrench, and VP44 gear puller.

This is due to changing the fueling of the Smarty this causes the TV cable to pull more or less. This is what raises the line pressure in the transmission for the most part. Like on the Quadzilla I can cut the fuel deeply and it requires more throttle to keep the same speed. Now crank the Quadzilla up an extra 20% across the board then the amount of throttle will be less and the line pressure will be lower. Even though both Quadzilla and Smarty do not change any programming on the PCM and how it shift but the fuel map will change the depth of throttle movement which will either make it shift one way or another. This only applies to the 46RE, 47Re and 48RE automatics...

Precious metals... Platinum is the primary. As for the requirements for the engine is straight pipe. Muffler is optional most states will regard a turbo as a muffling device. Cat's are not required on the exhaust except for Cally trucks. As long as you not in a smog state you should be fine with buying any exhaust system you wish and possibly upgrade. Most exhaust kits are like $400 roughly.

Some are asking here is my post about Morimoto... Like this morning I'm up at 4:30am and getting ready to make my trek to Ontario, OR. Very dark outside and no moon light either. Between the 3,000 lumen Morimoto D2S lights and 4,000 lumens for the PIAA LED's driving lights. Way better...

Same here the LED retrofits are very blinding. I've got most of my trips on narrow 2 lane roads without much of a shoulder. At least the HID's have a good cut off line of the low beam without blinding every one.

No requirement for the Cat. It can be safely deleted and driven. If I recall correctly it was only a California thing. Federal trucks did not come with cats.

Correct...

Already done the sport headlights with relay mod and still very poor for lighting. Sport headlight do not product more light. The Aux inboard lights is an narrow vertical band of light which is not usable light. The main lights give more light than the in board aux lamps. Not to mention the reflective pattern in the housing typically of low quality too scattered of light. Then the most you'll get from normal halogen bulbs is 800 to 900 lumens on high beam. Like my PIAA LEDs driving lights start at 4,000 lumens (18w) and street legal. Then the HID's at 3,000 lumens (35w). The fact is the stock housing are going to scatter the limited light (800-900 lumens) from halogens all over the place. HIDs will fill the entire area with equal light. Please don't get the dumb idea of installing LED headlight bulb they are very blinding because the housings are not designed for LED headlight bulbs. The pattern again is typically all wrong and very blinding to on coming vehicles. I drive at least 1,200 miles a week and sick and tired of LED retro fitted vehicles. The only way to get more light is go up properly. like I've found out sport light won't give more light than stock headlights. Still the same crappy reflector and same 800 to 900 lumen bulbs..

I've got a pump here that the timing piston will not move with human forces. You have to heat the body of the VP44 with propane torch to even remove the timing piston. This is a junk pump I've got for study reasons. As for repairing the VP44 you need a Bosch 815 test stand to calibrate and flash the PSG unit on top. Sad to say there is nothing a end person can do with repairing VP44 properly.

Basically the timing piston is galled up and no longer slides easy. P0216 code will be tossed. VP44 requires replacement. P0215, P0216, P0251, P0252, P0253 and p0254 all require replacement of the injection pump. (VP44) 4 ways of killing the VP44... 1. Lack of fuel lubricity. Bosch requires fuel lubricity of 460 HFRR or less. US fuels are 520 HFRR and possibly greater. 2 Cycle oil has be proven for over 10 plus year to extend the life of VP44. 2. Filtration. Stock filter is only 10 micron. Upgraded filters can be low as 3 micron. 3. Fuel pressure (14 to 20 PSI). Fuel pressure is what keeps cooling and lubrication going. Low fuel pressure can be just as bad as low oil pressure on the engine. Like myself I'm double stacked 3um on the AirDog and then 7um filter in the stock can. 4. AC Noise. AC noise from a bad alternator will cause damage to the PSG electronics of the VP44. Which is typically the P052x codes. Acceptable AC voltage is 50mV AC or less. Now showing that I would be looking into all the above. W-T ground wire mod and alternator replacement, added 2 cycle oil, fuel pressure gauge (14 to 20 PSI), etc.

On the steering give Ryan @Blue-Top Steering a shout and he's got seal kits for our steering boxes. As for the power steering pump you could just get a NAPA but make sure you flush the entire system before changing either the pump or the steering box. Not to badmouth anyone, but I had to replace my output shaft seal on my Blue Top Steering box. I called Ryan up and he send a new seal to me. I was able to seal change without pulling the steering box. Again thanks Ryan for the support for your product!

Default tune is basically a +3.0 step between bands... 15, 18, 21, 23... Like my tune is +4.5 step between bands starting at 14.0.

The toughest thing to handle is the timing. That depends partial on weather and fuel type (winterized or summer). Quadzilla was design more so with performance in mind but with some careful thought and data logging you can bend the Quadzilla to be a great economy tuner. The tips I can suggest is find the maximum timing for 2000, 2500, and 3000 bands. Max timing is the most you can give without bucking or excessive oil temperature. Then the 1500 band you want to be slightly retarded. This will give better light to light launching without excessive smoke and get the turbo spooled. Just remember the colder the air the tougher to get the fuel to vaporize and go bang. This why 190*F thermostat is more welcomed in the winter time giving as much heat as possible to the cylinder walls, head and intake. Fuel table wise is pretty straight forward. As much fuel as the turbo can burn without smoke or excessive smoke. I typically build for slight haze on WOT operation. Max load timing offset - that is most based on the amount of load your going to carry or trailer towing. I find most of the time I can run like 1* for empty truck without much bucking or timing issues. When I'm loaded with cargo or weight in the truck then 2* is a good number. Then Hauling trailers 3* is better. What you'll find is if this number is too low while hauling heavy on grades you'll find the EGT's higher, possible bucking, and oil temp is excessively high. Since higher number like 3* will retard 3* for just coming out of cruise to loaded timing allowing the truck to build boost and make power easier. Engine oil temperature should ALWAYS be less than the coolant temperature with empty truck. Typically its about -10*F cooler in the summer and about -20*F cooler in the winter time. The only time it may rise above coolant temperature is towing long grade and pushing EGT's high for long periods. How am I getting this value? Simple use the transmission sensor provided in the oil filter test port. Excessive oil temp basically points out the timing has too much flame on the cylinder walls and heating the coolant jacket too much causing the oil cooler to operate at a higher temperature, Typically when you retard back enough to get below again you'll see a drop in engine load or the amount of fuel require to travel the same road.

Correct the shift tower should be slightly above the floor line. Make sure that the shift tower can rock left to right enough that it doesn't bang the floor metal. Forward to rear space of the floor hole is only for the install and removal of the transmission.

Stock head bolt do stretch. So torquing bit tighter will stretch the bolt more. Doesn't improve clamping force. The only way is to use a harder bolt or stud. The ARP studs if IIRC is 125 foot pounds on the final torque. Where @dripley said the stock bolts you tightening an extra 90 degree turn.

2,000 is doing the job yourself. Might be doubling that figure for a shop to do the work.

As long as the ball joint is ventilated by burning a hole in the top so it doesn't hold pressure.

Pull the head send it to machine shop have the valves and guides done. Then have the head surfaced flat. Then pickup the studs. Mine was about $2,000 to be done, 18 valve guides, valves lapped, and surfaced flat. Head gasket and studs.

No. Shouldn't have to mess with retorquing the head much. The studs are harder than stock. Even ARP mentions in the docs not to retorque.

Turbo rebuild kits are like 50 to 70 dollars. Fairly easy to rebuild.

Yup that would be a good spot to start... The other 1600, 40, 40 will work but may not be big enough for boost if you upgrade in power. Then fuel pressure is in the 10-20 PSI range. The 0-30 would better accuracy.

The stock head bolts tend to stretch on the ends and then the leaks can occur. The machine shop suggested the 425 studs to help keep the head clamped down tight.