Mopar1973Man

Heck I'm driving the 1996 Dodge 1500 for now and got 80k miles on the front brakes and rotors. I don't just put into drive... I shift down using gear for stopping. Then use the service brakes below 35 MPH. Currently 183k miles and only done the front brakes. Rears are coming soon.

Yes to all the above crowded and crazy. Ontario, OR is full if illegal mexicans, and homeless. Boise is just full of crazy nuts. I84 is bad any business day near Caldwell to Boise. West is ok but you have to fight off the slow truckers. I run the I84 back and forth to the Nampa area for @Wet Vette meds and stuff in storage down there. She also has family and friends in the Nampa / Boise area. The U95 isn't too bad good flow of traffic to Weiser, ID then after that it thins out really well. Like this morning I'm looking at the roads and they suck... ... and I'm headed to Ontario, OR this morning... Oh what fun!

Yup. The winter tune is rather retarded in timing being the cetane in the fuel up here is pretty high. Summer tune has lot of extra timing.

Interstate now I can tip 19 to 20 MPG with my winter tune 80 MPH @ 2,500 RPMs. Highway is 18 to 19 MPG with all the 6 and 7% grades I drive (55 to 65 MPH) and 4WD usage with snow.

Bosch alternators are difficult and expensive to rebuild being the diodes are soldered into the alternator. Denso is super easy and I even sell the diodes here on the site. I sell both styles. (0886) I've only got one in stock but can get more.

That wide tire will only give you roughly 16 MPG stock config max according to my fuel logs of the past. I dropped to 235/85 R16 for years and did much better because the 235's were almost 20 pounds a tire lighter. Now switched to the door label to 245/75 R16 and now gain more torque. I went from 31" tire down to 30" and the tire is still slightly light than the 265/75 R16. This last change of tires altered the final ratio to the ground from 3.55 to 3.69. Making the truck even quicker and producing more torque at the rear tires. Wider the tires the more rolling resistance. Hence why true racing vehicles have very narrow front tires to reduce rolling resistance. Rears have to be wide and light for traction and reduce rotational mass. What are your tire pressures? Typically most 235, 245 and 256's tires are 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI for capacity. Using my truck for weights which I just done last week. Tires -> Hankook ATm 24/76 R16 rated for 3,042 at 80 PSI Front axle - 4400 pounds -> 4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 57.8 PSI Inflate the front Rear axle - 2900 Pounds -> 2900 / 2 = 1450 / 3042 = 0.47 x 80 = 38.1 PSI Inflate the rear This will get you the best tire wear, traction, and comfort in the truck. So like I typically just run the 60 Front and 40 rear being I may carry some weight some days. As for pressures for full 8,000 pound truck weight capacity is 60 PSI in all tires will cover 8,000 pound GVWR. If I'm going for comfort I would drop down to 55 PSI front and 35 PSI rear this also works good on soft surface like sand too. Loose materials require low pressures for better traction.

Double check both ends. I've seen track bars fail at the passenger side rubber bushing.

Like my Bluetooth head is in the cab. I've got th3e go ahead for relocating the bluetooth head to the cab and still having issues even when the cab is warm.

Just this morning... Snowing... You can clearly see my light have good cut off. Don't blind on coming but lights up a wide path...

As for the Quadzilla it locks the MAX fuel to 0 PSI boost value in the tune. Then once the Coolant rises above the set temperature then the entire fuel table is enabled. This always you to drive with the warm up mode and keeping the fuel limited till the engine is warmed up to the set value. WARNING: Do not use both the Cummins high idle and Quadzilla high idle together. The 3 CYL mode will cause serious issues and possibly lose prime on the injection pump. Like myself once down to closer to 0*F I disable the Quadzilla and use the Cummins ECM high idle. This prevents the clash of the two different softwares and possibly losing prime on the injection pump.

Quadzilla only uses coolant. IAT is NOT used. Cummins ECM uses both Coolant, IAT temperature and battery temperature. With the high idle switch it FORCES the ECT and IAT values to... 6 CYL - 123*F coolant and 26*F IAT 3 CYL - only sets 13*F for IAT coolant is not altered. The reason for that is the 6 CYL mode can be held forever. The 3 CYL mode should not be held being it creates upwards of 600*F pyro without an exhaust brake and well above 900*F with an exhaust brake. This will make warm up time even faster than Quadzilla can do. All safety system are still in affect. Movement will cancel. throttle touched will cancel. Excessive engine load will cancel. Trans in gear (Auto only) will cancel. Brake pedal pressed will cancel. Quadzilla just monitors the engine coolant... If below you set number it will ramp up to 1,200 RPM. That all. (2002 Dodge Ram) Movement will cancel. Throttle will cancel.

Quadzilla works from the temperature setting and the time delay setting. So if the engine coolant is below say you set 170*F then it will arm the high idle. Then wait say 30 seconds to engage the high idle. Now the Cummins high idle will arm at temps below 170*F and engage 6 cylinder high idle if the IAT is below 32*F. Then engage 3 cylinder high idle if the IAT is below 15*F. This is of course with grid heaters running so the outside temperatures would be much colder yet. Hence why my high idle switch came to life... Give manual control of the high idle mode by the flick of a switch.

Not sure what to say... Maybe double back to Rockauto and ask. Year One maybe?

Still on the the set I installed way back at 180k or so. I'm currently at 406k miles and still rolling.

Long time ago I was fighting a Edge Comp problem. I replaced the MAP sensor and didn't fix the problem. To this day I still got both MAP sensors and both still working as designed. Still even those days I can still bat out 18 MPG but I'm limited to 80 MPH with my tire and gear ratio which lands at 2,500 RPMs. I'm still baffled at just a mere 13 MPG. That what I get dragging my 8,000 pound RV that is 31 foot long. That just gives you an idea of the amount of drag you are fighting.

I've been using this method on NAPA master and slave cylinders. Works good and never had an issue.

If you running one battery you going to have to measure and rethink the AWG size of the wire. Might go up in size to cover voltage loss to the other size.

No problems here. @Wet Vette has had the Cummins training and capable of driving my manual transmission truck. I just enjoy the ride in the passenger seat which is like 400% more comfortable.

NEVER!!!

Hmmm... Wonder why I never have that issues running between Boise, ID and Ontario, OR. ???

Brake fluid is not a life long fluid. It will absorb water over its life and reduced the boiling point of the brake fluid. As it continues to absorb water it will foul the rubber and cause it to degrade the rubber lines and rust the steel line from the insides. Bleeding will push all the trash into the calipers and wheel cylinder which is why you need to break it all down to clean the debris out as well. It will bind up caliper pistons. There is less than 0.001 space in some cases where the brake fluid has caked on to the pistons and jam them causing drag. Weird but true... Brake fluid, power steering fluid and coolant are the most forgotten fluids on vehicles.

Ok so is the brake fluid a dark color or black? Then you brake fluid is contaminated with water and rubber. Needs to be flushed out at every 30k miles. Here is my article on how to get the bleed done and clean the caliper. I don't have rear drum but it would be the same.

IR temp guns are much safer than getting burnt. Any drag will produce heat, heat is the change of work energy into heat energy.

Jump to a full Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner. The timing is way more important that just the fuel. You could get the timing tweaked in with stock injectors and stock fuel and still make a good 2 MPG gain. Skip the boost fooler and the Edge EZ box. This will trap you with only stock or small injectors. Like myself I'm running a 7 x 0.010 (150 HP) injectors and still making 19 to 20 MPG with winter fuel. Tipping right around 500 HP. My daily tune is very mellow and does excellent for performance (MPG). I can turn up the power and then I could beat 4th gens without a thought. Oh yeah, I do it smokeless.

Yup its there too...