Mopar1973Man

Correct. I got the larger lens, standard ballast, standard 35w bulb 5k. The H1 Mini's have a reduced beam path when the D2S lens wider path of light. Shroud has to be changed to fit the lens. My increase of price was a rush order and shipping went up big time.

Try Bully Bars... https://bullyusa.com/step-bars-nerf-bars-running-boars.html

Sounds to be firmware issue... Educated guess.

The typical method of manual turning on and off the lock up is more problematic than what @IBMobile posted up.You can lock it up but the brake pedal will cancel it. I know @IBMobile can explain it better.

Any is fine. As long as you get a good flow into the copper and bind and seal the cable. This will aid in keeping oxidation from occurring.

Blue wire is because the tracer is burned in the PCM. It can be repaired possibly. I'm my case the tracer burned a hole in the printed circuit board. There is a write up to keep this from happening a second time.

Blue wire - If there is no +12V after tach signal (engine running) then the PCM is fried. Green wire - is the variable ground.

Remember Quadzilla is a 180 HP tuner on just a stock truck. I've ran 7 x 0.0085 VCO Injectors (+75 HP) and 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar VCO injectors (+150 HP). Seriously huge jump in power compared to Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. With the way I'm set up its possible for me to break the tires loose in just about any gear. My last trip on the interstate I twisted out 21.39 MPG at 80 MPH using my economy tune.

OEM oil cooler...

Throw a support ticket and I'll look into in my spare time heading to work for the day...

I run about the same numbers. My last trip over to the GF place in Nampa was... 98 mile trip, 4.582 gallons - 21.39 MPG on my Quadzilla Economy tune. Your 22.2 MPG is pretty good for a new truck. I wonder how the number will change with age and mileage.

A/C relay might be bad. Check the blue wire on the field it should have +12V after tach signal is sensed (engine running).

Never had a cooling problems... Like right now with morning temperatures iat 49*F outside my normal transmission temp will be 130*F roughly. Even on a 100*F outside when the 5th gear disappeared it was only 160 to 170*F trans temp. Even Abe at Weller Truck said that was on the cool side.

Most likely likely little change. The thickness would have to change to gain something. Like in the pass I use to have a stock 2 row radiator in the 1973 Dodge Charger and upgraded to 3 row radiator and it got thicker in the radiator face. If the tubes just get smaller and 3 of them now much is going to be gained.

Not a problem.

Got your goat... Even being serious too.

Maybe you should being he would be the best kind of Doc. Being he's not going to follow the conventional methods. I would rather trying something different than constantly following OEM specs... Thumbs up to you Evan!

I'm thankful to have a standard open diff in both trucks. No special fluids needed. 80w-90 GL-5 fluid.

You got a point... I've forgotten what it like to do that. Here in Idaho if you even find a 2nd Gen truck in a wrecking yard you are super lucky.

Still in all with my AirDog 150 or the 4G AirDog 165 pump I only see a 2-3 PSI drop on WOT stand.

Ummm... Might be cheaper... https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/GRO841039 The only problem is the bulb won't fit the housing the index pins in the housing are in a different placement. Can't be traded.

Always best to remove the transfer case first then the transmission next. If you don't have the room. Sling the transmission up on the frame rails and then lower it down slowly to the floor. Then you can slide it out.

Just changed out the radiator this morning and got the coolant flushed and a new NAPA thermostat installed. The new radiator I picked up from NAPA for $282.00 was a Spectra Radiator looks to be of a very good design. The ditch the drain cock for a drain plug which I'm happy to have. The radiator is still a large 2 core radiator. All mounting and clips proper size and type. Back to running the highway. Nearly 400k miles before the coolant pH finally ate the rubber seal. There is no cracks in the radiator header tanks just the rubber seal failed. This is why coolant flush should be done BEFORE 100k miles. When the pH level gets corrosive enough it will start to break down the rubber seals. Like just on my last fix was the oil cooler gasket which the pH was enough to eat the rubber seal bead on the gasket and start it leaking.

Never had a brace... Never had any steering issues.

They are the same size. I've stole some used sealing washers for my truck. VP44 sealing washer will fit the rail drain.