Mopar1973Man

This is where a good exhaust brake comes in super handy. Flip the switch and let off the throttle and let the exhaust brake slow you down. I've got several grades out here in the 16% to 18% category for sure. Always nice to roll down a grade and never touch the brake pedal.

Touche` Got ya!

Smarty S-03 tuner is designed for stock injectors and caps out the timing too low. Smarty doesn't have enough timing for larger injectors. Like Me78569 has posted up the Smarty tuner data logs it caps out at like 19° BTDC where like with 150 HP injectors I'm running upwards of 23° to 24° BTDC at roughly 2,000 RPM cruise state. If I capped out at 19° degrees like Smarty does then my MPG drops off to about 17 MPG.

Only when I'm down on I84. Rest of the time my cruise is set for 60 MPH, or unless I need data to prove a point. @JAG1 try again... 671,000,000 MPH is the speed of light.

Impressive.

Best having it come on later. Better MPG's. Higher coolant temperatures mean better thermal dynamics and more energy going to the wheels, not the coolant jacket. Then if the fan kicks in then it a fair amount of engine load to twist the fan for long periods for a loss of MPGs. Like I watch mine float up to 201 to 204F in coolant and hope to not trip the fan and typically get a small gain in MPG's.

Might not work good. We just had this conversation on EGT's thread. Even though I went to 245's (30" tires) and rev to 2,500 RPM at 80 MPH but still taking 19.58 MPG. Then at 66 MPH I'm at 2,000 RPM exactly and still twisting out 21 to 22 MPG with EGT's at about 550*F. The best part is EGT's never rise above 750*F empty truck even at 80 MPH.

No. Just happen to find that on FB right after this post started. I figured I'd share. My example is the Crows Feet.

Be smoky. No fuel management. No timing. Stock ECM is fairly retarded. I've got to have the Quadzilla on to keep the smoke under control. Then with the Quadzilla off the MPG falls pretty good where with the Quadzilla there is a really good gain.

The overflow valve is stuck closed. The cap on the oil filter housing has the spring and valve. REMOVAL (1) Disconnect the battery negative cables. (2) Remove the threaded plug, spring and plunger (Fig. 152). Insert a finger or a seal pick to lift the plunger from the bore. NOTE: If the plunger is stuck in the bore, it will be necessary to remove the filter head. CLEANING (1) Clean the regulator spring and plunger with a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. If the plunger bore requires cleaning, it is necessary to remove the oil filter head to avoid getting debris into the engine. INSPECTION Inspect the plunger and plunger bore for cracks and excessive wear. Polished surfaces are acceptable. Verify that the plunger moves freely in the bore. Check the spring for height and load limitations (Fig. 153). Replace the spring if out of limits shown in the figure. INSTALLATION (1) Install the plunger, spring, and plug as shown in (Fig. 152). Tighten the plug to 80 N·m (60 ft. lbs.) torque. (2) Connect the battery negative cables. (3) Start the engine and verify that it has oil pressure.

Totally agree. The HX35/40 Hybrid I'm running is an OK turbo for sprinting down the highway but beyond that, it does get hot EGT wise. I would have to back down to +75HP injector to actually gain control of EGT on a WOT stand. It can smack out a good 40 to 45 PSI boost run but the exhaust housing is too small. I might gain a bit if I ported the wastegate out and took some of the divider out. Being it normal to set the cruise and forget it. Then passing other vehicles typically not a big deal. Also, I'm not in it for racing but normal daily driver. Thanks. @AH64ID

I've heard that too. But I'm going to admit that I'm not schooled enough to talk in the twin world. Being I don't quite have all the info. I've got to ask @AH64ID how can it work well as a smaller turbo? Wouldn't the back pressure be a problem for the stock turbo in the twin setup? Being that it can only do about 30 to 35 PSI and the turbine side is getting overwhelmed. Being the exhaust would go to the HX35 then to the Super B right?

Not that I know of. I know in the cold of winter that pump can get up in pressure. But the overflow valve on the oil cooler will open and return oil to the pan. Correction its 15 PSI at idle and 45 PSI at 2k. I was looking for other specs like torque on the plug and max but this is the only thing I found in the FSM. Yup.. I was thinking 12V when I spit out the first specs. But it does list an opening spec for the overflow valve. DONT USE THESE SPECS for minimum pressures.

If the sensor is way out of wack then there will be error code for it. If it fails within specs then there is no error codes but the information is invalid so that where the gauge test will prove that.

Just rev the engine up to 2,000 RPM and look at the gauge. Doesn't have to per se be rolling to test.

In a nutshell... MINIMUM SPECS At idle minimum pressure is at least 10 PSI. At 2,000 RPM pressure is at least 30 PSI. Pretty simple to test with a mechanical gauge. Most likely you'll see about 30 PSI at idle and about 60 PSI on the roll. Welcome back @leety

Heck, one month old is a warranty claim for sure.

These are meh, ok for quality. The cutoff is there but can't adjust them properly. The pattern is too narrow and doesn't have a very good spread. This is the 1996 Dodge headlights with $55 Silverstars.

Give Quadzilla a call and see about getting replacement pyrometer probe.

HX40 from what I understand has a weaker shaft that why most don't use the HX40 outright. This why the HX35/40 Hybrid came to be. The compressor is the HX40 but the turbine is the HX35 shaft which is stronger. Just takes a few turbo barks and the Hx40 shaft will break.

Sorry... Just not there. I've done new headlight buckets on the 1996 Dodge and went to Silverstar Halogens and then are pretty wimpy for a new set of headlights. I really do want something brighter for the 1996 Dodge but the only option is jumping to HID headlights but they are not cheap. I've even tried the retrofit HID bulbs and they suck big time. I already know LED headlights suck too. Either fresh headlight buckets with halogens bulbs or fresh headlight buckets with true HID bulbs and lens.

Yeah, I would suggest the twins. I'm borderline with my setup but 175 HP injectors I would suggest the twins.

Mine is the extra +50 degrees high vs my ISSPro gauge. That why I always add the note -50F for EGT's and +1 MPH.

So what do you have done to your truck? You might fill out your signature and/or your garage so we all know what you've done modification wise. I currently tow an 8k RV trailer with no issues on a single HX35/40 hybrid and 150 HP injectors. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/103-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs/ https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

Better consider ARP head studs too. Being most will end up beyond what stock head bolts will hold comfortably.