Mopar1973Man

I'm not sure at this time I can find out from @mr.obvious. His was a 190°F bought in May of 2019. Purchase from Kenworth dealer in Ontario, OR. My point is that neither Cummins or Mopar produce thermostats. They change manufactures when they wish at any time. There is only a few companies that actually do produce thermostats. What they are listed as doesn't matter either being NAPA doesn't produce thermostats either. NAPA changes manufactures at the drop of a hat as well. It more about who made the thermostat than the vendor that sold the thermostat. So far no one had been able identify the manufacture of any thermostats and just chase brand names.

No. The bottom end typically is not that accurate and hard to feel the click. Better off getting a 3/8 Torque Wrench with smaller foot pound rating.

I've been using economy brake pads since the OEM pads wore out. My rotors lated over 350k miles before replacing. Never cracked or warped.

I can tell you that Cummins and Mopar do NOT produce any thermostats and will randomly change manufacture at the drop of a hat. That is NOT a current Cummins thermostat they have changed again. Out of date... New Cummins on the far left (2019). Then the old Cummins on the right. (2002). New Cummins thermostat failed right out of the box. Excessively cold.

Never found a compound kit that is exhaust brake friendly yet. That is my only hold up. I'm not giving up my exhaust brake I use that way too much. With the Quadzilla and the "Econo Tune" I'm running I'm smoke free and EGT's are low anyways.

Sad but true after 17 year the passenger side of my dash went POP. Long crack had form from the airbag to the 2/3 to the defrost vent. Hit some rough road patch yesterday and just the rough road was enough to pop the plastic. Can't complain got this far with my dash in one piece.

Current "Econo Tune" Timing... 1500 - 15.0 2000 - 18.3 2500 - 21.7 3000 - 25.0 MAX - 26.0 This so far is giving me the 21+ MPG but allows for 18.5 MPG at 80+ MPH. Non-towing tune. 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar injectors, HX35/40 (60/60/12), and the Quadzilla. One of these days we'll have to make time to meet up.

No sealant at all. Typically the hole is 1/8 NPT. This is common size.

Almost looks like it was blended with two different coolants and partially gelled up.

Never had a failure yet in 17 years of using NAPA thermostats. I've got like 3 of them on the shelf of used ones for spares. I've got 1 Gates thermostat that is junk. Wild up and down temperature swings. Not a NAPA but RockAuto.

I've been using NAPA thermostats no issues.

Yeah I just figured out the oil temp trick. When timing is too advanced you'll heat soak the coolant jack at the cylinder area this makes it hard to dump oil heat into a hot coolant jacket. The way to verify this is engine load will be lower this is good because less fuel in needed to keep rolling. Then EGTs are lower and coolant temps too.

Just installed a set of ISSPro EV2 in @mr.obvious truck on Tuesday. I've got to program his gauges in one of my next trips. Right close to $500 for everything. Plumbing pieces, tubing, bracket and fittings, etc. I'll grab photos next time.

I think you need to drop -1 from the max timing across the board. This will build boost much easier for towing and get you launched better. Monitor your engine oil temp with the transmission probe. When your timing is too high the oil temp will rise above coolant temp. You should be -10 below coolant to just equal to coolant temp.

If you do might buy a seal kit for each of them about $4 a piece. Done it many of times on my own truck.

Typically binding calipers is from debris in the piston area binding up the pistons. Typically people bleed the brakes and it pushing the trash from the master cylinder into the calipers and settles to the bottom now after a small amount of time the piston sliding back and forth it will eventually bind up.

Biggest thing everyone check for freeze point of the coolant but I rarely ever see anyone test for pH level of the coolant. Like the local shop does a freeze point check but they end up changing water pumps all the time. Even though I keep telling to check the pH level they never do. They just continue to change water pumps. Radiator plugging up for most of them. I just shake my head...

So far this new 4G Samsung unit is working awesome. I just had a client show up to make a parts payment for dual disk clutch and tuner. Just in the mere 15 minutes he was here his phone rang twice which blew him away. Wonder how could he get cell service way out here. I showed him the unit and he's been considering buying one as well for his home business. So far since I set up both units on a table and in the window both WiFi and 4G cell service spans the yard nicely now. Frontier DSL internet on the left and the Samsung / Verizon Network Extender on the right.

Actually the mineral content of the water had nothing to do with it. Being I've had my well water test numerous times. It's actually the pH of the water that is the most important. Both my water sources are carry mineral and metals but the pH of my water is near a perfect 7.0 on the scale. My irrigation water is from a creek with mineral and metals dissolved in the water as well but again the pH of the water is still close to neutral. Its the city water where chlorine and fluoride is added to the water and becomes too acidic typically (too low in pH scale). This wipes out the pH additive of the coolant and now the coolant is still too corrosive and the water now start dissolving metals into solution. This is what makes the scale build up in the radiator as the water cools the oxides come out of solution and deposit in the radiator typically. This is why its still possible to have scale build up with distilled water is because with time the coolant will gain a charge and typically start leaning acidic sided because of the huge current flow during cold starts in the winter time. This can be seen with a DVM dipping the RED probe in the coolant and the black probe to battery ground. More corrosive the more of voltage charge the coolant will have. Here is my 1996 Dodge with distilled water and coolant and it still ate the thermostat housing neck and distilled water did not save this!

Fender well look up under the fender skirt there should be 2 more bolts.

Depends. Full load ripple is going to be much higher typically the local NAPA passright right around 1.0 volts AC at full load 136 Amps. Idling engine and no load with DVM you want to be 50mV AC or less. Output voltage is meaningless. It the ripple voltage that is critical here.

Never touched distilled water. Either used well water or creek water. Closing in on 400k miles and still have ZERO scale build up in 17 years and 390k miles. Open the drain, pull the thermostat and chuck it in the trash. Flush the block with lots and lots of water with the engine idling. With the thermostat out the water will flow rather easy and fast even at idle. Once the engine is flushed out allow all water to drain. First gallon of coolant I put in 100%. All following coolant will be mixed 50/50. Fill till the coolant is just about to spill out of the thermostat hole. Install a NEW NAPA thermostat 190°F thermostat. Then top off with coolant. Go for drive watch for the thermostat to open. Come back and check your coolant level. Be careful the coolant and engine is now hot. Never touched distilled water... 17 years, 390k miles, no scale build up or failures as of yet. Still have my OEM water pump and radiator. This is how much coolant is left with just the drain cock on the radiator. Next to nothing. If you want more out just park nose down. My water source, my irrigation dam 1/3 of a mile behind the house. Just about due for a coolant change too.

My economy tune doesn't require wire tap. I typically use level 2 or 3 for daily driving to limit fuel tables as needed. 4 and above just added fuel and degrades the MPG numbers.

When the head was done was the valve guides all replaced? If not the valve seals will not hold up. The valve will move and rock and tear up the valve seals. Typically if you in the smoke it will smell like burning engine oil. Do you have any P0216 code? Bad injection pump with a stuck or seized timing piston will create some weird issues. How old are the injectors (mileage)? It's possible the pop pressure is too low and the idle spray pattern is pissy and creating the blue smoke from poor pop pressure. This will have the smell of raw fuel and typically burns the eyes.