Mopar1973Man

Gotta look back at people like myself and ask how do I do it? Still running all the stock parts. Tie rods lasted 350k miles before giving up. Ball joints are last over 200k now. Steering box over 300k miles. Brakes are over 200k miles. No steering box brace either.

That is a huge problem if alignment shop can't get it straight. I really have a hard time thinking you are going to get much farther. Being all the parts between the steering box and the wheels are on ball joints there is always going to be some rocking. Not to mention there was a recall for the T steering parts I know NAPA was one of the recall names.

Sound like there is a shorted out TQ Conv lock up solenoid. You have for sure electrical issues. Some how there is a back feed of power getting back to the dash. I would have to say the power supplying the TQ Conv lock up. Then the solenoid is fired being it is arcing. All circuits need to be checked for proper fuses. That TQ Conv solenoid needs to be replaced.

Glad I stayed with the Y steering less headache and still going tight. Did you take it to the alignment shop to be aligned?

40 warm up cycles to clear an error code. You have to go from below 140 coolant temperature to above 165 coolant temperature 40 times to count as one warm up cycle without tripping the very same code over again. Typically about a months time of daily driving to clear an code. So how long has the Smarty been gone?

I can't remember what dynamic said about the Torque converter lock up. I know it is controlled by the PCM and just grounding a wire for lock and unlocking of the TQ Conv. I'm not sure how the PCM makes the choice of locking or unlocking though. Speed sensor on the tail shaft? APPS signal? Engine RPM? That why I suggested talking to him he would point you where you need to be.

PCM and CCD Network issue. PCM creates the CCD Network bus and the instrument cluster will bias the voltage for the Bus. My first place to look the bolted connector in the PDC.

Double checking you don't have Smarty Tuner running right? Normal to see that code if you have a Smarty Tuner. Not normal to see the error code as a stock truck.

The numbers look good and acceptable. I would say the electrical system is good but you might talk to @Dynamic ask him about the lockup issue he might shed some light on it too.

Yea... I was that way till I upgraded the firmware to 2.8.4. Worked good and was very close.

Same here since MoparMom's kidney failure. I don't have any extras. All the bills I've got are either Medical or Business. Like my contribution was shut down the guest house 3 years ago. Then managed to get the parts for the Pelton wheel and get it running. This has reduced the power bill from nearly 280 to 300 a month to just 89 dollars for both main house and guest house. No water bill we pump our own water. Phone and Internet are provided by M73M.com as a business expense. Cellphone provided as a buisness expense. No trash bill we haul our trash to the dump. No sewer bill septic tank in the yard. I don't go out and hang out with friends anymore. I don't leave the house unless its requirement of life. I've been living on $8,000 a year income for over 4 years now. It doesn't get any more humble than that...Now I've got another surgery and at least $3,000 worth of bills just getting in the door. Then I've got over $8,000 already on the first surgery and waiting for the second one to bill up. Then I've got the 3rd Surgery. I've got nothing left I can cut.

I'm working as fast as I can to raise the money I need to go to my next surgery. Remember I don't have insurance. I need to pay off my outside bills that my financial planner is handling with the hospital. So my anesthetic, X-rays, and pathology are not covered. So I've got to have the money beforehand to pay these bills because they come in mere days afterward. I don't have TV per se. I do have a 50" Vizio but only watch once in awhile a Hulu movie or something. Normally too busy in the day doing other things to waste time in front of the idiot box.

It's possible for a big injector(s) to wash out the rings because of an injector(s) stuck open. I've seen 2005 Dodge that wiped out 5 and 6 cylinders and ate the rings. I've got a 2012 Ram now that has just one injector that was high return flow rate and rail pressure was always weak. No cylinder damage that I can detect. Runs good. After sending the injectors to be tested at DAP the bad one shows up. A bad injector can casue cylinder damage.

I'm just wondering if it just ran out of fuel first. Being that typically failed VP44 usually have error codes. It rare to have a VP44 drop dead without codes but not impossible either.

More direction for free time to work here. Like right now I'm getting ready to make my 250 mile drive. Exactly. That is my biggest goal right now. I'm working in pain daily till I can have my 3rd surgery to have the stent removed. Every night my lower back is hurting and I know what it is. Like you might of notice nothing mention about bicycle rides. That because I'm physically incapable of doing any more. Too painful to ride the distance like I used to. Like just sitting here my lower back is starting to ache. I've got 6 hours minimum stuck in a truck today too. (yah...) I managed to take free time and do some talking locally for a few jobs hence how I invested my free time producing work. Most local people were respectful and not bombing me with work knowing my condition. I've got all the work I want right now. The biggest part is my body going to allow me to get this all done?

You could do the other idea... Convert to an automatic transmission then you get to keep your truck.

I always thought the Bluetooth head should be in the cab. All that metal cab shielding out the radio signal. @Quadzilla Power let me know when you fix the ECM / Quad handoff. I'm ready to fix the bucking problem.

I agree if you going to do injectors put in either stock or RV275's at the most. Cheapest bet and for sure. Now as for just selling you could knock 300 off the price if they whine about smoke issues.

My free time just got shorter and much less. 2012 Ram 6.7L needs an injector replaced and the 0ther 5 installed again. Waiting on a box from DAP. Then I've got a 2nd Gen that needs an oil change, fluids checked, exhaust brake looked at (sticking), and valve lash adjusted. Then in between all this, I've got a 1992 Dodge Ram 5.9L to do a fresh set of injectors (5 x 0.011) +30 HP. Waiting for a box from DAP. Free time just disappeared...

While cranking? What is the fuel pressure?

What is your fuel pressure during the morning start? Does it drop out and rise? That is an air bubble. Tank vent is possible being as the fuel cools it will create a natural vacuum if the tank vent is plugged up.

Typically causes are starter contacts and the brushes are worn out in the starter. Being the starter contacts bridge when the solenoid pulls it closed and supplies the power to the starter motor. A common issue and cheap to fix. The brushes do eventually wear down and typically one brush will be too short to make contact and the starter now rolls at 1/2 power and speed.

Computer wise you only need 8 Volts minimum to start and run. Learned this driving around with my blown up PCM and burned up alternator. This is where all the mods come to play.

The funny part is out here gunshots are fairly normal and no one ever even worries about it. It is normal for the 2 leggers to shoot 4 leggers. Idaho vs Texas lifestyles.

Gotta ask a dumb question. Did you run out of fuel? I've seen fuel gauges lie and just run out of fuel. Drop about 10 gallons of fuel in and try repriming the injection pump. Double check the error codes. Some of the VP44 codes don't always pop CEL. Could be another subsystem that failed making it look like a failed VP44. What is your fuel pressure like?