Mopar1973Man

First off that what the site is all about is coming together and fixing the problems we find. We all share information and figure out what the issue is and then come to a solution that is fair permanent. Lets start basic with error codes and the fuel pressure while your driving the truck down the pavement. (idle, cruise and WOT). Test for power at the lift pump plug after bumping the starter.

Roughly 4,400 pound in the front, and 2860 on the rear axle. This is empty truck no cargo. Your truck might be a bit more.

That was max capacity. Front axle was inflated to 65 PSI The Rear was like 45 PSI. Ran good.

AC noise you need the W-T ground wire mod. Then for the dead pedal it could be APPS sensor failing check for a P0121, P0122 or P0123 code.

I've had a set of tires that made by Black Lion (China) and were a 235/85 R16 tires that were G Load Range (3,750 pounds @110 PSI). There is a wide range of China tires that have super high rating but most would never give up the US name brands for a China made tire.

I used NAPA economy pads all the way around and cleared 180k on the first batch of brak pads, then over 200k on the second batch of brake pads. Rotors lasted over 380k miles before I replaced them. The economy pads have way less metallics in the pad and dont eat up the rotors.

On our truck this is not true. Late or retarded timing puts more flame out the exhaust port and spools the turbo. Too advanced will heat soak the coolant jacket around the cylinders. This can bee seen by using the trans temp sender in the oil test port on the oil filter. Typically the oil temp should be about -10°F below coolant. Over advance the timing the oil temp can rise to +10°F above the coolant temperature. Now I did a test run and over retarded the timing and pull the oil temperature down to -22°F below coolant. The power was way less and MPG's dropped out. Now my latest update on my Econo Tune has this in the tune and cross the 21 MPG mark with 150 HP injectors. I'm one of the rare few. More here... Then the tune...

The Hankook ATm 245/75 R16 are S speed rating (112 MPH).

Exactly what I'm say like @dripley saved big time buying from part supplier and ended up with the same OEM part without paying for the mopar logo.

Both can be had at DAP. @dieselautopower Maybe he get you a quote for a package deal... You never know...

This why I ask who made the part this way you can still save a ton of money and buy that manufacture elsewhere. For example if OEM is a Murray then buy a Murray from Rockauto or NAPA... Then your not buying the Mopar Logo or Cummins Logo.

Nope. Very quiet. Low traffic, No police presence most of the time. Salmon fishing was a bust. Steelhead fishing was a bust. Now everyone is trying rafting that seems weak. Just quiet out here.

Still I've got to still ask the question who made the OEM? I know both Mopar and Cumins do NOT manufacture fan clutches. Still would like to know who is manufacturing the fan clutch.

Electronic delete I love because you just saving all the part for the emission test. "Lookie, see all my parts are there." Truck passes. Electronically it does nothing. Coffee wise I do a double shot of half and half and a teaspoon of sugar. Pour that coffee down my throat. EGR can just lay there and look pretty. I wouldn't want all that carbon pumped back into my engine.

You can select other years... Here is what I'm running... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2D9HF2/

Half the unfo. I need the maximum amps it put out. Mine was also a Amazon find but I picked one without the temperature issues. If you go back and look at their comments and might be people complained about popping early and heat issues.

I've already seen 106°F down in Ontario a few days back. Even today was right around 92°F. I'm running the 150A circuit breaker and never tripped once yet. I suggest pulling the alternator having it bench tested to find out what its putting out and if there is any diode issues. Normally running truck doesn't draw very much at all. If there was a issue the grid heaters would be the biggest load at 195A but still in all a 136A alternator shouldn't be enough to trip a 150A circuit breaker.

Sorry I don't... I'm still on my factory battery cables yet. Not even needed to clean them yet.

Cleaned mine up a bunch once I figured out the oil temp trick. Good news, I broke the 21 MPG barrier.

Nope but seen plenty of projects... Typically that is a petroleum based under coating. I'm battling to prevent that from even starting the best I can.

Here is the Dodge FSM error codes and information.

My two tries at 7 x 0.0085 (+75 HP) injectors resulted in surging idle or lopey idle. It was so bad it would stall on city streets and at light trying to launch again. When I had them made the same thing with a 7 x 0.0085 VCO the problem stopped. Those were popped at 305 bar. Now with 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar has a bit of lopely idle but as soon as you come to full stop the lope stops. Sound kind of cool but no driveability issues.

Ok... Here you go...

Part number is meaningless. Who made the part? Yes, they can be the same part that I've seen already. Yup this is true. Dealers (Mopar and Cummins) change manufactures constantly. You might get the same part that NAPA, AutoZone, etc. sells. I've seen this too. Not stamped the same part numbers but the manufacture is the same.