Mopar1973Man

More retarded the timing building more boost. You could even try dropping to 3 just to try it and see the difference. More advancement of timing keeps the MPG's up. This is where you build different tunes for different purposes. Build your towing tune and the daily or economy tune Your welcome.

I will be leaking when you pull the shaft out. The seal is most likely harden and the axle being pulled out will drag across the seal. Not much you can do. If one is leaking the other will when you pull the shaft.

Drag the file to the editor box or at the bottom of the editor box that says "Drag files here to attach". Where you have to worry is high amounts of timing advancement at low RPM. Like I'm in the 22° to 23° at 1,500 RPM. Your still well below this yet. Your max timing would have to come up to 17, 20, 23, 26, 27 (max) then have cruise timing of 4° or 5°. Your very safe yet. Another way is the knock grows as you add more timing this is the amount of the ignition event that is occurring BTDC. As you retard the knock disappears this is shifting the ignition point more so ATDC. Then there is a balance between advancement and engine load. As you add timing the engine load will drop but at some point you'll create negative torque and the knock. Then the engine load will rises again. When you reach bucking you've gone too far advanced. Remember the Max Timing sliders is the max you reach at performance timing. The only time that you can exceed those values is with cruise timing when you stacking on top with plus a value. This is why I built a spreadsheet and calculate my timing map out and see what the values will be... So the table is the load based timing across the engine load span excluding cruise timing. Then you can see the max cruise timing vs. max timing timing.

Nope typically its a loss of prime. I would look for air leaks that are allowing fuel to drain back to the fuel tank.

Yup. The carrier has to come out so the seal can be changed. If you do one you better do the other seal too.

Could you just export the tune and then upload the file please. I want to see the rest of the settings. Go here... https://mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ Max Load Offset you might try 1° to keep it higher in timing. If that makes it worse the flip that to 2°. This is the amount of retard you going to provide when your out of cruise timing and back to performance timing. Just remember more retard builds boost. More timing advancement reduces boost. Hence why I'm looking at you Max Load Offset the more you add retard here going higher in number towards 3 the more boost it will build making power.

Assuming a Quad here...

Some of you are picking on me a bit. Seriously. Since this last surgery I've got no pain at all. Most of my problem before was the stent in my right ureter poking at either my kidney or my bladder. Now since the doctor removed the stent I feel great. No soreness or pain issue. Don't even need the cannabis for pain. Still I'll continue to use the cannabis to keep the cancer at bay. I'll continue to use it for another full year most likely at the levels I can tolerate during the evening after all work is done.

Upload your tune to the post. I'd like to see the tune and what you got set up. Also you might list all the mods on the truck if any. Actually it more so in the timing than anything typically. I've learned quite a few tricks for getting a bit more out without adding much fuel.

Should need any alignment. Ball joints are a non-adjustable part. The only thing I could think is that you created a wear pattern in the tires now changed the ball joints and now the tires creating a pulling to one side. Take a bit of time to wear in. Might consider doing a rebalance and then rotate the tires.

The best I can say is the front differential cover has to be removed and drained. Then the both front wheel bearing removed. Then the both axle shafts removed. Then the carrier has to be removed from the axle. Then you can drive the seals out. If I remember correctly the seals are driven out from axle inwards to the differential housing.

Check your alternator before replacing the VP44. I would hate to see you ruin another VP44 with a bad alternator and possible AC noise issue.

Ummm... No pain, What you talkin' about Willis...

Ok. First off the ABS module is reporting ABS and BRAKE light. This is a speed sensor error. There is 3 speed sensors 2 sensors in the front axle and 1 sensor in the rear axle. There is a mismatch of speed between the 3 sensors. All 3 sensors MUST report the same speed or the ABS and BRAKE lights are turned on. As for the ABS module it will broadcast it speed signal on the CCD network. Any module that is listening can receive speed information from the ABS module. ECM uses the speed signal for cancelling grid heaters. PCM uses speed signal for cruise control and transmission information. The gauge cluster uses it for the speedometer. Now if there is a CCD network error P1698 or P1694 then the information is not getting to either the ECM or PCM. The gauge cluster might still function find because it just listens for speed signal. Just for information purpose the PCM is the master computer that creates the CCD network and the gauge cluster is what sets the voltage bias for the CCD network. If there is a P1698 or P1694 code then either the ECM or PCM is not hearing the CCD network.

Should of been 2 cycle oil. DieselKleen doesn't have any lubricant.

Still there is a speed signal error. truthfully there is no real path of the speed signal. This why the CCD bus is different. The ABS just broadcasts the speed signal for any computer that is listening. So the ECM, PCM and Cluster all listen when ABS announces. Now if there is a CCD Bus issue like a P1698 or P1694 code that signal is not getting to the PCM or ECM. Gauge Cluster is a separate module and also controls the bus bias voltage for the CCD bus.

All the products I've used typically already comes as a pre-measured dose. Unless you happen to use gear oil with the additive already.

Still don't think its going to streetable. Like a 62/65/12 is a common good turbo. Stock is 54/60/12 HX35W.

I think that turbo is just plain too big for use as a single. 71mm compressor, 71mm turbine with a 15cm2 exhuast housing its going to a hard to spool. 7 x 0.010 injectors are way too small. I'm running a HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12) with no issues on 7 x 0.010 injectors. With the 285's tires and 3.55 gears will make it lag even more.

Yes. Without tach signal there is no way for the ECM to detect if the crank even moved. The cam sensor is only a single tooth TDC sensor. The starter bump looks for lack of movement or lack of engine starting to see if the prime cycle is to used. CCD network issue. Quadzilla is directly hooked to the CANBus of the ECM. The Cluster is hooked to the CCD network so if the ECM isn't talking on the CCD Bus then the cluster doesn't read anything.

No. Being once the Quadzilla comes online past the warm-up mode all IAT signal is igonred at this point. I'm trying to figure out a math to be use for the Quadzilla so we can bring back the IAT. Right now its a pain to constantly check IAT vs current timing and see if it need more retard and the IAT warms up. Then as the days cool off how much advance. Like starting back at about 20 to 30°F IAT it was +7° cruise timing. Now with 110 to 120°F IAT it is only +4° cruise timing. The base timing you can leave alone.

Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3 Timing Reduct Scaling: 100 Change those two settings to... Low PSI Timing Reduct: 5 Timing Reduct Scaling: 100 That will toss a good amount of retard in launch from the hole. That will pull 5 degrees worth of retard for all 100% of throttle range while in low boost state then flip back to load based timing. Once he gets the timing figured out then you can bump the fuel up more. Like I'm running... 17, 20, 23, 26, 27 for timing. But remember I'm high in the pop pressure so this give you a bench mark for how far I've went but you'll most likely be below me.

Everything I've done is based on test data and making sound judgement calls on parts. My budget is a extremely tight and poor choices can result in wasted money.

Praise the Lord. I've completed my 3rd and final bladder cancer surgery which last mere 40 minutes or so. I would like to say Thank You to Dr. Spencer and all the St. Luke's hospital staff for the care and comfort provided. Then I've got to Thank all my friend that schooled me in cannabis usage. Because of the cannabis I DO NOT require chemo or radiation treatments. Next check up is scheduled in October. At this time Mopar1973Man is cancer free. Thank you all that have donated to my medical expenses. As of June 10, 2019 at about 4pm I'm officially cancer-free. I won't see the doctor till some time in October. Time to celebrate...