Mopar1973Man

Correct. When you place a liquid or fuel in a vacuum state then the boiling point goes down even lower. This is why long suction lines for either diesel or gasoline is a bad idea. When a fuel is place into a pressure state then the boiling point rises. Hence why vapor locking no longer happens with gasoline engine at 40 to 60 PSI of injector pressure from the fuel tank to the rail. Compared to fuel pump on a the side of block and the entire run of the steel line is in mild vacuum state and the boiling point is reduced too low and the vapor locking start early. Just remember vacuum is what we use to remove water from A/C system because it will cause water to boil at a very low temperature like 70*F. Just like the coolant system a 16 PSI cap help to raise the boiling point of water up above 212*F with coolant it rises even more.

Heat is what breaks down the fluid. This why it need to be changed every 30k miles. Remember the power steering gear box hold a bit more than 1 quart empty. Plugged up ports in either hydrobooster or steering gear box will create heat from lack of good flow. Excessive requirement for hydro-assist will create heat. Excessive pedal pressure, steering on larger tires, holding the steering at full lock, etc. Hmmm... I guess I'll have to grab my IR temp gun.

Depend on how hot...

Really simple if you want to watch he pop pressure of your injectors. Just plug in a live data tool and watch the engine load. If it falling below 5% engine load the injectors are below the lower limit. If they start gaining idle RPM like instead of 800 RPM your getting 850 RPM then the injectors are well below 260 Bar.

Cruise control is controlled by voltage. The buttons on the steering wheel create a different voltage for each function. If the PCM happens to get the right voltage for turn on, set, accelerate, etc. then the PCM would just continue to roll with the settings.

Bad clock spring?

Remember the amount of torque trapped in the transmission depends on the final gear ratio also. Its very possible to have 700 foot/pounds of torque but destroy the transmission because your running oversized inch tires. I know 285's isn't huge but just placing the point out there.

I would call @dieselautopower and ask Jacob where they get there shims.

Bearing sloppy? Groove in the output yoke?

Yup. I was thinking of just covering with new fabric instead. Red neck engineering.

Yup. Mine even on a manual is the same way.

Also the hotter your running transmission wise the more energy is being lost to generating heat in the transmission.

OMG... @JAG1 inserted bolt in the intercooler. Feeding turbo a china hose clamp. Breaking main shafts in transmissions VP44 smoke shows Yeah maybe you should stay away...

Can you show me how the old panel was held in place? Photo please of the old door panel piece.

I'm betting it means there is no Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) for this.

No kidding! Nice! Gives me an idea for my 1996 Dodge 1500 5.9L ...

Storage amount is listed on the subscription profile for each. Like Silver... Yeah there typically set for 17 PSI from the start. 3G pumps have a bearing and seal issue. the 4G pump is upgraded to double seals and better shaft bearing.

That is what makes this website go around. The experiences and knowledge is shared by all. This reduces the stress and guessing of where to get services and repairs done for a fair price and good turn-around time.

They got a about 7 day turn around on my PCM that I burned up. Damage beyond repair but they had a replacement and it flashed correctly.

There is a reason the VP44 was a upgrade to the p-pump. The VP44 has dynamic timing and way better tuning over a mechanical P-pump. Yes I'll admit P-pump is a awesome platform for racing or competition use but difficult to tune. Then with VP44 and Quadzilla you can take advantage of up to 32° BTDC timing where the P-pump is static and locked to one timing. P-pump can put down more fuel than VP44 but VP44 is more street friendly and you don't end up giving up things like cruise control. Like my truck if I p-pump the engine cruise is fly by wire so cruise control would be lost. Or grab your mobile device and tune... ...can't be done on a p-pump... P-pump you need to measure the lift of the pump piston and pull the gear and preposition on the shaft.

I've gotta ask how does that arm rest come out? As for my truck. It got a shine job...

Or 3.55 gears and drop to 245/75 R16 the other stock tire size and be the same 60 MPH at 1,800 RPM's or 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM perfect.

It's only taken me 17 years to get that far... Quadzilla +150 HP VCO Injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) 425 ARP head studs Exhaust brake 4" Exhaust South Bend Clutch Con OFE HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12) Then to get off the phone with @dieselautopower and he's trying to sell me twins. Dreaming a bit, but I know I'm way out on limb first I gotta pay the hospital bills first. You can have @JAG1 spot under the the tree in my yard. I can supply 120V 15A power for ya...

@dieselautopower Could you list some links of products that fit this bill. I've got several people that might be interested.

I'm going to turn a different direction. Pull the alternator and have it bench tested for AC ripple, replace if needed Do the W-T ground wire mod. This will stop majority of the AC noise in the system. Do the Field Wire Fuse Mod (optional) just to protect the PCM. Random throttling could be caused by AC noise infecting the tach signal from the cam / crank sensor. This will create random pu down swings of throttle while in cruise or manually controlling the throttle.