Mopar1973Man

I've been playing with this and its does work out to aid in setting up timing. If your timing is over advanced your engine oil will climb. Like excessive cruise timing it will slowly climb up then when you hit a hill and with goo retard the temp will fall again. This points out the cruise timing is too high. If one RPM range is too high that range will show a serious rise in oil temp. When your advance timing you forcing the burn to occur mostly in the cylinder and this transfer a percentage of heat to the coolant jacket. Excessive timing will actually force the engine oil temperature higher than the coolant. Keep in mind the oil cooler sees the cold coolant from the radiator. I've seen as low as 22°F difference between coolant and oil temperatures. More you retard the timing the more you building boost and making the burn occur on the downward stroke and push expanding gases into the turbine of the turbo. More you advance timing the more the burn happens in the cylinder transferring heat into the coolant jacket but also efficiency is better. Now its about gaining a balance to heat and timing. Now between listening and watching oil temperature you can hit nearly a perfect timing or least within a few degrees. SUGGESTED: Keep oil temperature about -10°F below coolant temperature.

17 to 18 PSI running here no issues. Cranks at about 10 to 12 PSI no starting issues. Fuel temp typically about 120*F with the summer heat.

Power washed and checked twice now. Your right you can't really see up top. Slowly looking for oil with a finger tip you can feel it at the seem but forward seems to be dry. Vent hose I can't confirm as of yet.

If your really abusive. On my 1973 Charger long ago I start to see water pump weeping through the weep hole. I had my family in the car. On my way over Horseshoe Bend the water pump decided to take the bearings out and chuck the fan into the radiator. Did over 450 dollars of damage. On ours typically the bearing gives up and the fan hops into the radiator and does the happy dance.

Thanks! @Marcus2000monster I was hoping it was a easy fix. I power washed it off, Filled with ATF. Then went down the road with a few hard pulls to 85 MPH. About 8 miles pulled over and it was leaking from up on top. Like where the case half come together. Forward is of this seem is clean and dry. Runs down the passenger side and scatters in the wind.

Can the transfer case be just removed. Then split the case and reseal it? It looks like it sealed with silicone. Is it?

7 to 12 PSI during cranking is fine. Above 12 PSI and hard starts happen. What happens the ECM attempt to advance timing too quick so the lift pump pressure is reduced by cycling the power at 50% duty cycle so the pressure fall and the VP44 can advance timing till the RPM's come up.

Yup that's about right. Being the fan has to sense the heat from the radiator to get the thermostatic coil to twist the clutch to lock up. If the Radiator is shedding heat then the fan will lock. If the thermostat is close or barely open the face of the radiator is rather cool to the touch not enough heat to lock. As long as the fan lock around 205 to 210 your good. That is the high normal mark on the gauge.

Yes sir. There is a plastic bushing. Take note to the firewall if it moist with brake fluid just change the entire master.

That's what so baffling to me. P-pump the make the ECM choke on errors, then attempt to get a TPS signal from the ECM to send to a PCM (Firepunk trans controller). Which it never does. Just gets rid of the VP44 injection pump... ECM and PCM still remain with buttload of errors to swim through now. Which may just limp mode both computers. (Unknown).

Most likely master cylinder is worn out. There is a bushing in the rod too.

Just remember Mopar does NOT produce any fan clutches just like they do not product thermostats. Nor does Cummins. I've seen plenty of people go down this road. Friend of mine in Ontario, OR just bought a Cummins thermostat for $60 bucks and it was junk. Seen the box and every thing. Again Cummins just buy whatever re-labels and sells under there name. Even Mopar does this. Just like Mopar sell Fram filter with Mopar logo. Right there is a Mopar Filter that is just a relabeled Fram.

I'm not sure what to say. I've got no idea what is left of the stocking wiring. Can you read error codes?

Yes. It does. Mirrors the same signal from the ECM.

Kept yelling at the my truck to quit peeing in the shop. After 17 years you figure the truck would be house broke right?

Fan does NOT lock till about 210 to 215*F. My truck runs 197*F to 205*F. Normal for my 195*F thermostat. About two needles width from the 190*F mark. Even my A/C temp rises in traffic and slow moving. Fan isn't locked and this totally normal.

Not the UVs that kills the dash. Its the out right surface temperature that is cooking the oils out of the plastic. Then just takes vibration to crack the plastic.

Doesn't matter. Its the thermostatic coil in the front that makes it lock or unlock. Housing doesn't mean anything.

Yup. 208F to 212Fwhen mine locks the fan. Been like that for 17 years.

Yup... Like myself I blew my PCM, broke the mainshaft in the transmission, blew up the driver side front wheel bearing. Forget the idea of spare parts...

I just places an order for gauges for a gent in Ontario. @mr.obvious. Going to be installing ISSPro EV2 gauges (Boost, Pyro, and EGT). He's also running a intank fuel pump. We both know the fuel pressure is sub-par with a intank lift pump. As for dash you can extend the life of the plastic by using Armor-All. The trick is to wash the plastics all off and the spray the Armor-All on and leave it cook in the sun. It will change from whitish to clear shine. This keeps some of the oils in the plastic for a bit longer. Mine is cracking but I'm holding it at bay for now. Eventually I'll need to do a dash top replacement like @dripley has. As for the HVAC system I've replaced the evaporator and heater core once. Blend door is still fine. Then vacuum motors still working fine. A/C works good. The heater works awesome even in subzero.

Not worth it. 17 years later I'm on the same ECM. You would have to send that spare in and have it reflashed with your software. There is 52 different version of software per year. You would be better off doing the W-T ground wire mod. Then doing the PCM protecting fuse. Way cheaper and no need to buy a second ECM and have it flashed.

Typically I aim for about 35 PSI low side. The hi side should be about 225 PSI on a hot day.

Could you fill out your signature so we know what we are working with exactly. Most likely the torque converter clutch is failing or the clutch packs in the transmission are done. Assuming 48RE... @Dynamic is a site transmission guru.