Mopar1973Man

Replace the sensors as a pair. Retest. If it's still there then replace the bearings as a pair. If one bearing is bad the other is close by to failure.

@Dieselfuture is right on the mark. With Dieselfuture... Quadzilla Adrenaline 7 x 0.010 Injectors @ 320 bar HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 4 Inch exhaust BHAF 13.68 MPG towing my RV - 31 foot Jayco Eagle @ 8,000 pounds. 21.32 MPG running empty Making roughly 500 HP to the ground.

Reduce your MAX boost below 20 PSI. Stock ECM is restricted to below 20 PSI period above that fuel is cut deeply. This is totally normal for stock tune truck it's only 235 HP at the flywheel. Different story when you add a tuner now all those restrictions are removed and the sky is the limit for power. The other problem anything above 2,000 RPM typically is a loss for MPG's. 4.10 gears are too high of a ratio for highway travel. 3.55 with stock tires typically do better. Like myself I'm running the 245/75 R16 on 3.55 which produces final ratio to the ground of 3.69:1.

Going into a defuel mode because of no tuner present. Once boost gets to 19 PSI the ECM starts cutting fuel. By 25 PSI it will be fully defueled and tripping P0234 code for over boost code. Boost has to stay below 19PSI for stock setup. You need to highly consider buying a Quadzilla. This would fix the boost problem it comes with a boost fooler and allows for fuel as far as you want to. Timing control to get MPG up better since the stock ECM is retarded in timing pretty good.

Typically this what happens people swap to thinner fluids and gain a bit of time before it all goes bad. Yeah, 6 speeds (NV5600) are not cheap to fix either. Nearly 2 times the price of a 5 speed (NV4500) to rebuild. Like mine was $1,800 to rebuild new bearing, synchros and 5th gear replaced, and a main shaft. The reason 6 speed is so expensive is not really many building parts and really kind of tough to get.

Personally, I think all of it is too thin. Even the factory fluids. When shift quality goes down people opt for thinner fluids then the wear sets in faster. Like I found out the factory 75w 85 for the NV4500 isn't enough and I ate the 5th gear hard facing off. The gear was replaced but it proved to me that factory fluids don't protect good enough. Thinner the fluid better the shift quality this why the dealer is now filling both NV4500 and NV5600 with ATF+4 just like the G56 transmission. Shift quality is great but the protection of the gears and parts is really poor. Pennzoil SyncroMech fluid is technically a GL-4 fluid but doesn't make the rating because it's too thin to make the full GL-4 rating. Again here we are with thin fluids. The gearbox is going to generate heat the fluid has to protect the gears and bearing. If the heat gets too much the fluid gets to thin and it starts creating wear. Kind of like why we don't run 0w 20 engine oil it would get to thin to protect the moving parts of the engine. But it would have the least amount of drag and produce the most power. Same thing with a gearbox it needs to be thick enough to protect the parts and synchros.

Most likely the gear lube was too thin. Couldn't protect the synchros. With the dual disc clutch, there is a lot more mass spinning and the synchros have to sync the input and output speeds and since the fluid is then by factory specs and the added mass most likely ate the synchros. The other possible problem is the dual disc is having issues and dragging the input a bit too much and causing the grind and shift problems.

Like my Hybrid HX35/40 is a 60/60/12 which is nearly like the HE351 which is 60/60/9. Ok, turbo still just a bit small but OK for 450 HP range for sure.

185K miles your injector are most likely shot. You'll need to pop test and consider a replacement. Then stock tune ECM is rather deeply retarded in timing if your towing. It will eat the fuel like no tomorrow. Good set of injectors and tuner would do you more good. You don't have to go wild either. 4.10 gears and stock tire size is going to be awfully low geared and limit your high way speeds below 65 MPH.

You better have a wire that is less than 0.006 to fit in the cross over tube. The purpose of the cross over to is to contain the edge filter with is a tapper plug that necks down to smaller than the nozzle holes of the stock injector so small object are hammered by the pulses till they are small enough to pass thru the injector.

That is done on the mobile device. The import button is in the upper right of the Custom Tune Screen.

Be careful... If done wrong you can change the thrust angle of the truck causing it to pull to one side or another. I would suggest having an alignment shop do this and ask for more caster angle added.

What you doing it dropping the gear into the rack. If you go too far into the rack it will bind up. Typically the way I've done it was go all the way to the bottom and then loose back up about 1.5 to 2 turn but you have to help by lifting the output shaft. The adjustment is just allowing the output gear to drop down into the rack.

Actually point it the brass side of the temp sensor. Thermostat housing will most likely show cooler. It the temperature on the other side of the thermostat that counts.

Actual the coolant gauge is typical right on the money. Volt gauge drop to 8V at 11.9V. Oil pressure gauge can go up or down vs coolant temp.

Exactly what is happen with mine I'm running 2.8.4 version. The previous worked perfect. Now its broke again.

No. You can run the Quadzilla headless. Just start the truck and go. My phone is a multi-use tool. I've got the OBDLink LX in the OBDII socket, I've got my Cheap China Bluetooth stereo that I can make phone calls through. Then I've got my Bluetooth headset. You are not forced to keep the iQuad app running. Basically, once the Quadzilla is set up with a tune you can ignore it and it will still work every time you start the truck. If you have gauges on the a-pillar you can just use those and never fire up the iQuad App.

Being you have 245's now you can opt for the quick ratio steering box. Which is very easy to steer. (BlueTop Steering) No issues to report. Everything working well with a Blue Top Steering.

In my case all the other settings remain just the MPG trip data is reset every key on cycle.

Because iPhone has a problem with sending data over Bluetooth.

Personally Android is the best... But I'm a full-blown Linux / Android guy. iDevices tend to be problematic being they are like Microsoft products proprietary to itself. When Linux is Open Source and much easier to work with. Androids are much cheaper to get your hands on.

Optimal temperatures... Coolant temperature: 190°F to 200°F Intake Air Temperature: 100°F to 140°F Fuel Temperature: 100°F to 140°F Coolant temperature needs to be as high as possible to keep thermal efficiency as high as possible. When coolant temperature is too low the burning fuel will lose energy to the cold coolant jacket. Even 200°F thermostat is better than 190°F if you can get one from a 6.7L. Heat is naturally heading towards the coolant jacket cooling the flame front out and reducing the amount of work. Intake Air Temperature needs to be above at least 80°F. Below this ECM kicks up an extra 4° of timing advancement which typically you lose efficiency hence where the MPG fooler came from. Optimal temperature range for MPG is 100 to 140°F. Warmer air vaporizes fuel easier and ignites quickly. Cold air kills MPG numbers. Racing is a different story where you need cold air to control EGT's but with MPG game you need hot air to get the fuel to burn completely. Fuel Temperature is a tight balance being the fuel cools the VP44. Typically the IAT and Fuel Temp follows nearly exactly the same temperatures. Warmer fuel vaporizes easier and ignites quicker. In all the time I've ran the Quadzilla I've never seen the fuel temp over 140°F yet. Above 150°F you start leaning on creating Asphaltenes. Getting closer to the flash point of the fuel makes it burn better. Like on my morning startup I'm still in the 20s and 30s. I lose quite a bit of MPG number till the IAT and Fuel Temp rises. Now on my return trip home my temperatures are much better and Engine Load is much lower and EGT's are nearly rock bottom. At 55 MPH I've seen as low as 400°F to 450°F with cruise control set on flat ground and engine load float about 16%.

Optimal is 190 to 200 degrees. Below 190 you start losing efficiency.

Well?

Warm parts means weak connection. Warm relays should be replaced. Warm fuses should look into contacts and replacement of the fuse.