Mopar1973Man

@Dynamic built my 46RE for my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. No shift kit used but custom drilled and modified the valve body and the entire transmission. As for just bolt on fixes for 47RE I don't suggest it either being valve body is only part of the puzzle and entire transmission needs upgrades to hold up to the abuse of more power.

Without any displayed data its tough to figure out what the different setting do.

I hate when I find wrong information. Just like the schematic for the 2002 oil pressure sensor is a single wire not a 3 wire. Then all the weird stuff we already changed the rules on like minimum fuel pressure, etc.

I use to tow quite a bit be now it all highway empty miles back and forth to Ontario, OR. If you think that Exhaust brakes are for only towing your very much so mistaken. I use it for every stop I make. I foot doesn't touch the brake pedal till I'm down to about 20 to 25 MPH. I've been flipped off for not having any brake lights. I assure you the brake lights are there and work I just don't use the brake pedal very much. I've even been pulled over by a cop once for not having any brake lights.

Make sure to have it realigned too.

That is my first choice. ACS is a good company that will handle the job properly and most likely for less money.

That's got to be a typo... Pin 37 on the ECM. Got to be a typo it's even showing pin 37 on the PCM.

Be careful there is like 52 different series of software for one year of ECM.

Wait to start should display regardless of the CCD Network as long as power is supplied to the ECM the very first instruction is the WTS light for either bulb test or fire up the grid heater. WTS is not part of the CCD network but hard-wired from the ECM to the cluster light directly. Look at the two wire maps for the Orange/Black wire. Passing thought is possibly the main fuse for the ECM and PCM being blown or fuse element cracked. Then both the ECM and PCM be without power and would not do anything.

@Dynamic is a killer guy to work with. He does some awesome transmission work too.

Good question. I would give your local tire shop a call. I would consider a metal stem if possible that bolts to the wheel. That would be better bet for sealing and prevent leakage. As for standard pull thru stems, I'm not sure what the size of the rim hole has to be.

FedEx mail came today... 5 x 0.011 +30 HP 1st Gen injectors... Then the new replacement 4th gen injector. The funny part is that single 4th Gen injector cost as much as the entire 6 injectors for the 1st Gen. Just about finish the 2nd Gen with its repairs. Talked to the owner and doing more work. Thank you! @dieselautopower For handling the injector testing on the 4th Gen injectors and sending me the new set of 1st Gen injectors.

Head gasket is done... What's another fist full of money eh?

Done. Covered. You are up and listed.

If you do... Look at the PacBrake PRXB. That is the best exhaust you can most likely get your hands on. The standard PacBrake isn't bad but the PRXB has a second butterfly that hold back better down low RPM's giving better braking.

That is why the Downloads are member thing. That way they are not displayed to Google or the public but the membership pool here can glean the information needed to repair their trucks. I see it as an educational purpose.

Doubtful. When you can catch my pad life (200k plus) really doubt bigger is always better. I would suggest Exhaust Brake over 3rd Gen brakes any day.

Just a month ago I pulled the caliper. I'm running the cheapest pads I could my hands on. I'm well over 200k miles on this set and still going. I've just replaced my rear rotors not too long ago not because of the rotor was bad but the top hat part for the parking brake. Grooved too bad for the parking shoes to grab the drum. Rotors where still in excellent condition.

Driver side of the block just below the stock fuel filter housing. 2 bolts, one Allen screw holding the plug in. I would highly suggest to send the ECM to Auto Computer Specialist and they will test and tell you what is wrong with the ECM. Then repair what is needed. Double check the OBDII plug you could have a pin pushed out. I've had this happen with a Smarty Tuner.

Here you go.. Talk to @Dynamic he can tell you how to get lock up for 1st and 2nd gears.

Bad news. Your ECM is not booting up at all. The VP44 might be fine but the ECM is brain dead. Double check for a P0381 error code. This is for the WTS light if the bulb or circuit failure. Yep. That be the one. That has the CCD network going back towards the cab.

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Sad to say this is really old technology really. The A727 Torqueflite transmissions came out in 1962. Then it was upgraded to 4 speed in the mid 1990's which was an A618 or the 47RE. Basically, the same transmission from back then just changed out some parts add the 4th gear.

That adds a bunch of strain on the tie rods that's for sure. 285's and up just gets worse. Common problem out here too the ranchers love using 285's and larger for floatation on mud but sure kills the front suspension and steering parts quickly. Only solution is either to beef up everything and rebuild the geometry correctly for the new tires. Or come back down to smaller width tire to reduce the strain on the tie rods. With larger tires, you should never attempt to turn the steering wheel without rolling. Being the face of the tire resist pivoting more so this action just forces the steering box to push a wide face tire to pivot where it's sitting. The mere fact there is over 4,400 pound of weight on the front axle and wider the tire more resistance to pivot. Being I drive a lot of back country road and have to turn around a lot. Narrower tires pivot easier on the steering parts with less straining.

Now I've got to ask what size tire are you running? This is the point at which either make or break the front ends.