Mopar1973Man

Kind of how a wasted a great 1972 Dodge Power Wagon pickup with oversized tires and lift kit. Broke the front wheel joints 3 different times. Damaged wheel bearings. Tore up a drivershaft. Wiped out a few clutches, Wrong final gearing... End up trading that truck in and get the 2002 Dodge Cummins. Took a huge hit for trade in value for the trashed front axle you can't get parts for any longer.

The power steering system has lots of small orifices. You would need to tear it all down and blow out all the small parts. Like the power valve in the steering box, the valve in the hydrobooster, and then the small ports in the power steering pump. This is why you flush the system out BEFORE installing any now parts. Blue Top even tags the gear box stating that the system needs a complete flushing BEFORE installing and will not warranty the steering box for debris issues from lack of flushing. To this day I'm still running my OEM pump and flush the fluid every 30k miles.

I'm running right behind him at 384k miles. Still kicking out about 1,000 miles a week. These engines are good for 1 million miles. I'm on my second clutch. South Bend Con OFE clutch. It a full kit with flywheel, all bearings, friction disc and the pressure plate. Trailer towing and log skidding is really tough on clutches. Being this clutch is mostly highway miles I'm going to get much more miles on it. Transmission wise I broke the main shaft on the OE transmission. Still going on the new one already past 100k miles.

Try deleting the tune then try hooking back up to the Quadzilla. If you can get back in then reload the tune again. Mistakes of values in the wrong spots can hang the app. At the worst you would end up uninstalling the iQuad app and starting over.

OMG Now that's funny...

OK, I've got work to do on my truck tomorrow. Doing front brakes. I'll grab my thermometer and check again. I'm sure I'm going to tip the 160F mark

You both full of s__t. @98whitelightnin you've got a 190*F thermostat right? That heater vent temp seems low. I typically see about 160*F.

When was the last time you changed the power steering fluid? Remember Power Steering fluid need to be changed every 30k miles.

No. They can't. The only way is to set a tune and the calibrate the ABS. Once returned to stock the ABS calibration is lost and returned back to stock again. Only if @Chris O. would finish the CCD Network tool we would have a good tool for ABS calibrations. Either that or pay the money for dealer to used a DRBIII tool.

That sucks the dash cap is missing the screw holes.

You might see dampness around the firewall inside the cab typically where the master will weep a bit but also drawing air in too.

If it was me I would get a some 1/8 air brake line and use that. Last much long and designed for oil and fuel contact.

Typically a air bubble will be seen as a sudden drop of fuel pressure. Then jumps back to pressure again.

I know of a few guys that do such tasks. Yeah they don't want to be publicly announced but there are people that build delete tunes for MM3's. Like the one I got experience with is StarBrite Tune (EFI knockoff). Not exactly fond of this tuner. Rather pain in the butt. You have to download the entire ECM and the extract the data file from the tuner on a laptop then email the ECM to them. In about an hour or so then email back the ECM code and you can upload the the new ECM code to the the truck. Now the tuner gives 5 levels of power but you much shut down. hook up, key on, configure, key off, unhook, and fire back up. No configuring the tune, no adjustments for the tune, just 5 levels.

The larger line is a vent for the transfer case.

First off... Chase the leak. I typically place a vacuum on the system and then watch the lo side gauge for up to 5 minutes. If it drop any vacuum at all it has a leak. Now I typically go over to NAPA and grab a seal kit for said vehicle and end up rebuilding all plumbing connections. Then vacuum test again. Like for payment for having @Smarty Support watch MoparMom while I did my surgeries I converted his 1990 Chevy from R12 to R134a. After doing the vacuum test I found that the 2 o-ring in the compressor where too small. I had to dig in a different pile of o-rings and get ones just slightly thicker. Vacuum tested again and it held a perfect 27.5 inHg for over 5 minutes. At that point I recharged the system. Kind of glad I did this for him the compressor was complete out of oil. As for the compressor start and stop. This can be worked on after it charged. If the low side switch on the accumulator is failing you can simply unscrew the low side switch and replace. It has its own schrader valve and seal. As for recharging I always warm the vehicle up and do the recharge at the hottest part of the day. Gives better numbers on pressures and get correct charge. I just done a jeep down in Ontario where the owner was getting OK cool air. It was charged in the cool of the morning and was actually over charged. After I vented about 5 PSI off the lo side it got colder. Bringing the lo side down to 35 PSI. Vent temperature dropped to 32-35*F.

Huh? Never had this problem. I've got a quality QC 3.0 charger in dash 3 amp charger. Then Typically on short trips I run headless where I don't even bother to start the iQuad app. The tune is still there but of course there is no display. Phone is always 100% charged when I get out of the truck. My Garmin GPS runs on the other other port. As for the Quadzilla it will boot up using the last known tune that you had. You are not required to have the phone for every time to get the tune booted. For example in the morning I'll setup my phone and iQuad and then travel to Ontario. Once in Ontario my phone typically is in my pocket in and out of stores. I don't even bother to start the iQuad app.

Timbo's or what type of APPS? Your starting voltage sounds good. Top I'm going to guess is OK. I would do a APPS relearn process. This will reset the voltage limits from idle to WOT.

There is delete kits for EGR and DPF. They exist. You'll need a tuner for sure for programming out the code in the ECM. I would suggest a MM3 tuner being its a Smarty tuner but design for delete tunes. Still its not about turning up the power but optimizing what you got to get better MPG and performance without the EGR and DPF problems. Highly suggest you disassemble everything piece by piece. Do not cut the exhaust system, take it out as a full assembly. I've found out locally you cannot trade in a deleted truck, dealers won't touch them because of fines of selling vehicles without proper emissions.

Gauge scale impacts its accuracy. You would not want to use a 100 PSI gauge to test fuel pressure and compare to a in-dash gauge that is 30 PSI gauge. Even using a gasoline fuel pressure tester Typically a wide scale gauge typically has a wider amount of error on the bottom end say for our truck in the 0 to 20 PSI realm.

What I told @JAG1 is cycle the regulator full both directions to free up the valve inside. Once he screwed it out all the away and back up in pressure it became more stable. The adjustable regulators on the new AirDog's tend to hang up and do weird things.

All of the sensors. Sensor wasn't the issue it was the wheel bearings. The tone wheel was damaged. After replacing the unit bearings lights went off in 100 feet. I basically wasted nearly $300 on front axle speed sensors to find out the tone wheels were bad.

Like myself I done all the ohm testing and wire testing everything showed good. It was the tone rings failed in the front bearings. That's why I own 3 sets of ABS front sensors right now.

Impressive video. But only time will tell.