Mopar1973Man

Totally agree. The HX35/40 Hybrid I'm running is an OK turbo for sprinting down the highway but beyond that, it does get hot EGT wise. I would have to back down to +75HP injector to actually gain control of EGT on a WOT stand. It can smack out a good 40 to 45 PSI boost run but the exhaust housing is too small. I might gain a bit if I ported the wastegate out and took some of the divider out. Being it normal to set the cruise and forget it. Then passing other vehicles typically not a big deal. Also, I'm not in it for racing but normal daily driver. Thanks. @AH64ID

I've heard that too. But I'm going to admit that I'm not schooled enough to talk in the twin world. Being I don't quite have all the info. I've got to ask @AH64ID how can it work well as a smaller turbo? Wouldn't the back pressure be a problem for the stock turbo in the twin setup? Being that it can only do about 30 to 35 PSI and the turbine side is getting overwhelmed. Being the exhaust would go to the HX35 then to the Super B right?

Not that I know of. I know in the cold of winter that pump can get up in pressure. But the overflow valve on the oil cooler will open and return oil to the pan. Correction its 15 PSI at idle and 45 PSI at 2k. I was looking for other specs like torque on the plug and max but this is the only thing I found in the FSM. Yup.. I was thinking 12V when I spit out the first specs. But it does list an opening spec for the overflow valve. DONT USE THESE SPECS for minimum pressures.

If the sensor is way out of wack then there will be error code for it. If it fails within specs then there is no error codes but the information is invalid so that where the gauge test will prove that.

Just rev the engine up to 2,000 RPM and look at the gauge. Doesn't have to per se be rolling to test.

In a nutshell... MINIMUM SPECS At idle minimum pressure is at least 10 PSI. At 2,000 RPM pressure is at least 30 PSI. Pretty simple to test with a mechanical gauge. Most likely you'll see about 30 PSI at idle and about 60 PSI on the roll. Welcome back @leety

Heck, one month old is a warranty claim for sure.

These are meh, ok for quality. The cutoff is there but can't adjust them properly. The pattern is too narrow and doesn't have a very good spread. This is the 1996 Dodge headlights with $55 Silverstars.

Give Quadzilla a call and see about getting replacement pyrometer probe.

HX40 from what I understand has a weaker shaft that why most don't use the HX40 outright. This why the HX35/40 Hybrid came to be. The compressor is the HX40 but the turbine is the HX35 shaft which is stronger. Just takes a few turbo barks and the Hx40 shaft will break.

Sorry... Just not there. I've done new headlight buckets on the 1996 Dodge and went to Silverstar Halogens and then are pretty wimpy for a new set of headlights. I really do want something brighter for the 1996 Dodge but the only option is jumping to HID headlights but they are not cheap. I've even tried the retrofit HID bulbs and they suck big time. I already know LED headlights suck too. Either fresh headlight buckets with halogens bulbs or fresh headlight buckets with true HID bulbs and lens.

Yeah, I would suggest the twins. I'm borderline with my setup but 175 HP injectors I would suggest the twins.

Mine is the extra +50 degrees high vs my ISSPro gauge. That why I always add the note -50F for EGT's and +1 MPH.

So what do you have done to your truck? You might fill out your signature and/or your garage so we all know what you've done modification wise. I currently tow an 8k RV trailer with no issues on a single HX35/40 hybrid and 150 HP injectors. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/103-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs/ https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

Better consider ARP head studs too. Being most will end up beyond what stock head bolts will hold comfortably.

LED lights are pretty darn bright. The front marker light with switchback bulbs they light up to about 20 feet but could possibly reach more but the light is pretty scattered after that. I love the thought, Opps, I left my lights on for hours. No biggy truck still starts every time. Between what I've done so far in the cab and the taillights and markers it draws much less power. There has to be a mild saving there not having to twist the alternator as hard to power everything.

Man that sucks... Now you got the arm issues, the wrecked SUV and your truck out of action. Take a deep breathe and work your way through it.

True it would as long as it was calibrated.

Would they work on a Dodge fan clutch? It looks like all industrial applications.

Right on. Exactly done right.

225°F is the far end of the normal zone. As for the mechanical fan clutch nor you have zero control. As for the 3rd Gens and up with electric clutch fans. I think you can program the fan using a Smarty Touch I think. @AH64ID would know that answer.

Since this thread is growing pretty good I'm going to move this to the Gov't Forum.

Oh yeah... Right...