Mopar1973Man

First of Quadzilla tuner cannot be free revved. It doesn't have the timing tables for free revving.

I'm glad it worked out for you. It's always best to make sure the firmware of the Quadzilla is up to date. I know that Spencer @Quadzilla Power comes over with updates and put them in the Download section. Then the tunes are up for grabs in the download section as well.

Run the corrected I've provided.

Here is all the codes...

Are you sure it's a true data cable? some are just charging cable missing the data connection. I've got a few cables like that and it refuses to connect or do anything for the Quadzilla because of its only a charging cable. If you are on Linux I would say to fire up a terminal and the type in. michael@michael:~$ lsusb Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 001 Device 004: ID 058f:6364 Alcor Micro Corp. AU6477 Card Reader Controller Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 003 Device 003: ID 045e:00cb Microsoft Corp. Basic Optical Mouse v2.0 Bus 003 Device 002: ID 045e:0752 Microsoft Corp. Wired Keyboard 400 Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 008 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub Bus 007 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 006 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub Bus 005 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub michael@michael:~$ As you can see I can check all my USB ports for connection. But for Windows, I couldn't help you. I've not touched a windows PC in over 8 years now. The last version of Windows I worked with barely is Windows 7.

Good advise... I wouldn't exactly buy a cheapie MAP sensor nor would I hunt for a name brand sensor either. It could be a ground wire issue like what @dripley is fighting lately. The sensor ground is all crushed together in the loom. Like @Me78569 said do your testing and diagnostic work. Get your error codes and review the OBDII error code list in the article section it has all the steps for testing.

Just because Cummins is on the box doesn't mean Cummins manufactured the part. A lot of parts are made by different companies and relabeled as what ever brand. Kind of like some of Mopar oil filters are just Fram filters. As seen here... Just like everyone thinks buying a Cummins Thermostat is going to be best. There are only 3 or 4 manufacturers of thermostats and Cummins doesn't manufacture any thermostats at all. Food for thought...

No. Only 2002 will work for the key method. 2001 only shows the PCM. Doesn't mean that it's still good.

P0234, P0236, P0237 and P0238...

Is it possibly the wrong jumper in the Quadzilla? @Me78569

Upload your tune to this thread. I'll look at your settings. It would be nice if you capture a data log for @Me78569 to review also. Are any error codes present? All wiring hooked up properly to the MAP sensor and Quadzilla? No damaged pins or wiring? Turbo in good condition? Wastegate not stuck open? Boost leaks? I know it's not cheap. When I figured out the tire to gear problem I got a local gent here in McCall, ID with 37-inch tires (3.00:1) and the same problem lacking power. It cost him a bit over $4,000 to have 3.55 gears removed and 4.10 gear installed. Massive power increase and MPG jumped back up to the high teens to low 20's.

Gear ratio is all wrong you need 4.10 gears in the axles to make this work right. Like I'm running 245/75 R16 tires with 3.55 gears. As you can see the ratio is much better and produces way more power! Optimal is 3.55 to 3.73 for highway use...

This is the number one cause of the pressure sensor failures for Quadzilla, Edge juice, and electric fuel pressure gauge. That is why I created this article long ago.

Yeah. the pulses ate the sensor. You need distance from the snubber to the sensor. Like having a loud speaker on one side of a wall and your head against the wall. The loud music will still damage your ear drum. Now move away from the wall a good distance now your hearing isn't damaged. Same thing here you need distance from the snubber (wall) to your ear (sensor). Wiretap good condition showing +12V with the key on engine off? What size tires and gear ratio do you have?

Not good. Your sensor is fried from the pulses from the VP44. No needle valve No snubber No distance from the tap point. Correct way. There is over 5 feet of 1/8 tubing from the tap point to the sensor. Needle valve for emergency shut off. Snubber installed just after the needle valve to dampen pulses. 5 feet of tubing to allow the remaining pulses to fade out over travel of the distance.

7 x 0.010 injectors. You could try my tune but its pretty light in the fuel for the most part. I'm running close to you. HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 7 x 0.010 injectors @ 320 Bar 4" inch exhaust BHAF

Glad it worked out for you.

You might want to dive into the tune database... https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/ I need to know what size tires you have and what gear ratio in the axles... Post a picture for your fuel pressure sensor. I want to see where its at and how it's set up.

Even my truck does too. It will toss a P0230 code if there isn't proper resistance on the lift pump circuit. I understand for guy like you in the California area you need to be error code clean!

I've got to ask what is your idle RPM? Then what is the reported engine load? I need both of these values from a fully warmed up engine. If the Engine RPM is above 800 RPM and engine load is below 5% I'm going to bet money the injectors are too low in pop pressure.

Have you updated the flash possibly? You are running the correct vehicle type I just wonder if the firmware needs updating.

Funny the OEM tierods on my truck lasted 350k miles. Must not be too bad of a design. But I've got the reason why I kept failures down. I've never ran larger tires. I'm actually running smaller than stock size. 265's what the truck was built with. I went to 235's shortly after the 3rd year. Then recently dropped to 245's which is a 1" shorter. Now I've reduced the stress on everything and not required to upgrade at all. Even reduced the stress on driveline and transmission too. Kind of like 190k miles on my current brake pads and won't need to replace them for another 150k miles roughly. I'm in the game for longevity.

The last thing I've seen where transmission pressure was low, the filter was filled with debris.