Mopar1973Man

You never gave the Quadzilla a true chance. Just expecting the "default tune" to work right out of the hole. Not the way it works. There will never be a canned tuner that will be perfect either. Being most of them are only designed for stock injectors. Like @dripley can say about +50 HP injectors and Edge Comp are smoky. Just running of the ECM stock tune is going to be pretty retarded in timing. Making it even slower.

Like I keep tell most people... Out here people don't have a $4,000 to toss down on injectors. This was the only way to go. After testing the other 5 were still very serviceable but #6 was completely wiped out and returning high flow rate. I still know of 3 other truck where they are driving with the Grid Heater light on and having troubles starting in the morning. Just no one has $4,000 to replace all 6 injectors.

Will this work for ya? https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-light-pods/3-inch-square-18-watt-led-mini-auxiliary-work-light-flush-mount/1783/

Time to swap out the electrical and the PCM.

Kind of like the guys I just got done with 2012 Ram 6.7L one bad injector. He's so clueless.

I'm finding more and more guys even out here that are wrench clueless.

Those two are out running around the highways traveling from place to place. Not much to figure out. Turn on Bluetooth. Turn on the device you are going to pair with. Now, wait till the phone report that it has a paired device. Now anytime that device is one the phone will pair up with that device automatically. That how an Android smartphone will work. As for iOS phones, I know they will transmit data on Bluetooth hence why the WiFi head for Quadzilla.

RV275's and an Edge EZ is OK. I ran an Edge Comp and Stock injectors, RV275 Injectors, and +50 HP Injectors for over 10 years. Good combo but the +50 HP were too smokey and could be cleaned up very well. Again "Canned Tuners" like Edge and Smarty are only good for Stock injectors. Once you start using big injectors then the smoke gets out of control easy. Then I swapped up to the Quadzilla Adrenaline and +75 HP injectors extremely clean tuner and injectors. Now jump up to +150 HP injectors and can keep the smoke to a controlled haze more or less.

Yes sir... Not a bad job to do. I got the injectors out and mailed them to DAP. They got the box on Friday. Then late Monday they had got the testing done. Found that one injector has extremely high return flow rates. This was bleeding out the rail and creating the P0087 error code. Got the injectors installed in a bit over 3 hours. Did all the torque specs for everything. There is an extra step versus the 24V style. Where we use the injector hold down cap to push the injectors in. For CR engines you have to lightly torque (41-inch pounds) to push the injectors down past the o-rings into the head. The rest is easy. The rearmost #6 is a PITA no matter what. Way easier to bleed the rail and get it started. That was super easy compared to a 24V Cummins. Completed and ready to go home.

The older these trucks get the harder and harder it is to remove pressed together parts.

Still, I would suggest going to an alignment shop. Just that extra degree will not show up on wear patterns but might impact steering performance and increase wear speed slightly but nothing noticeable.

All I can speak for is Android. But when I download a tune it lands in my download folder. Then I got to the iQuad app and then press the Import Button. Then go to my Download folder and select the file I wish to import. Apple products should be something similar.

Not done yet. Waiting for parts to show. Sensor and wiring.

Stated dry weight according to the label 6,588 pounds. As I said, no one tows an empty RV. Actual weight. This is correct. Best choice would be Quadzilla Adrenaline but requires the effort of making a good tune. Caned tuners like Smarty or Edge Comp and Edge Juice are only designed for stock trucks and not exactly a good choice for towing. Quadzilla will give the best bang for the buck but again you have to make the time to build the tune and do the testing as well. Not something you can do overnight. For either manual or automatic transmissions is a good thing. Like myself, I bought 2 sets of weld in bungs so I can have one sensor for the transmission and then the second bung will go into the rear differential. Got to use a single transmission temp gauge for both sensors on a toggle switch. Also, ISSPro EV2 gauge comes with a USB programmable warning light and programmable relay to switch on and off devices (optional). I've got my gauge set to 220°F warning light temp.

EGT limits are like @AH64ID mentions at 1,250°F. I will warn though running that hot will make the coolant temperature rise quickly. Like your doing running 1,100°F is much easier for the engine and keep the heat down. As for the trailer forget the empty weight. Post up the GVWR that is the number that is meaningful. No one tows an empty RV. Everyone packs it with cargo, food, water, propane, etc. That number is the most important. I've also got to ask how many miles on the truck? If you have over 100k miles on the stock injectors you most likely due for replacement. Just because the truck still runs fine doesn't mean the injectors are still spraying at the proper pressure. This will make for hotter EGT's. A good tuner also helps a bunch with towing EGT's as you advance timing you EGT's will fall and the engine runs cooler and more efficient.

@Dynamic built my 46RE for my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. No shift kit used but custom drilled and modified the valve body and the entire transmission. As for just bolt on fixes for 47RE I don't suggest it either being valve body is only part of the puzzle and entire transmission needs upgrades to hold up to the abuse of more power.

Without any displayed data its tough to figure out what the different setting do.

I hate when I find wrong information. Just like the schematic for the 2002 oil pressure sensor is a single wire not a 3 wire. Then all the weird stuff we already changed the rules on like minimum fuel pressure, etc.

I use to tow quite a bit be now it all highway empty miles back and forth to Ontario, OR. If you think that Exhaust brakes are for only towing your very much so mistaken. I use it for every stop I make. I foot doesn't touch the brake pedal till I'm down to about 20 to 25 MPH. I've been flipped off for not having any brake lights. I assure you the brake lights are there and work I just don't use the brake pedal very much. I've even been pulled over by a cop once for not having any brake lights.

Make sure to have it realigned too.

That is my first choice. ACS is a good company that will handle the job properly and most likely for less money.

That's got to be a typo... Pin 37 on the ECM. Got to be a typo it's even showing pin 37 on the PCM.

Be careful there is like 52 different series of software for one year of ECM.

Wait to start should display regardless of the CCD Network as long as power is supplied to the ECM the very first instruction is the WTS light for either bulb test or fire up the grid heater. WTS is not part of the CCD network but hard-wired from the ECM to the cluster light directly. Look at the two wire maps for the Orange/Black wire. Passing thought is possibly the main fuse for the ECM and PCM being blown or fuse element cracked. Then both the ECM and PCM be without power and would not do anything.

@Dynamic is a killer guy to work with. He does some awesome transmission work too.