Mopar1973Man

I'm not sure... But it might be the loose nut on the compressor wheel. It goes along with the loose nut behind the steering wheel too. I was going to say leave a check with a comma and we'll talk about it. Not an impossible job, but not easy either. Poor chicken man getting the love slathered on thick with a putty knife. Ah, We got your back there Dave!

Like @dripley shows that is an updated case no tabbing needed... Just like my case is the same thing no tab needed.

That tidbit comes from battling with @pepsi71ocean with his Smarty S-03 and how it affected the shifting of his transmission. Changing his Smarty tune changed the way the transmission shifted and behaved. Finding that the Quadzilla will do the same thing because of how you build your fuel and timing maps. You need to talk to @IBMobile he's got the awesome mystery switch setup that is sick and impossible to screw up. Impossible to leave the torque convert locked up and come to a stop being the brake pedal in his design will cancel the lock up.

Dang, mine is lower around the 1,200 RPM mark I was wondering if it was a Quadzilla issue or something else. Right near 1,200 it start bucking on light throttle right around the 25 to 30 MPH speed range. I would say change up the timing more retard at the 1,500 and see if it helps or not. I'm going to bet not.

Once the line is flowing it best to cap it off instantly and then keep pumping on the other lines till they flow then tighten them up. I've only once had to use ether / starting fluid on my truck because it just didn't want to crank prime. Just make sure to disconnect the grid heater power from the battery.

Being the filter minders for our truck is rated in inches of water column let's say I've never moved the filter minder once in 135k miles. I'm for sure not out flowing the filter. Everyone can throw tons of specs of filters out but how about taking a measurement of the amount of vacuum in the filter? Been there done that... Now if your pulling vacuum on the filter and can actually measure inches of water column or move the filter minder then I'd say you are out flowing the filter for sure.

Ummm... So how to get your pump on the Bosch 815 test stand to be calibrated to the new PSG? I'd never run a VP44 pump with mismatched parts between the pump and the PSG. If it was so easy then the Bosch 815 test stand would not exist.

Should be based on the 2,000 RPM should be 19 to 20 degrees typically. This can be impacted but tires and wheel sizes affecting the final ratio to the ground.

I've got the same issue but it all the time near idle it lopes. Launching it lopes and then when slowing down to stop it lopes. Once stopped its smooth. Once rolling its smooth.

Double check the RPM range it does surging problem exist at. I'm curious.

I've done overc135k miles on Idaho dirt roads. I've never had on collapse. Ill dig up some old video.

First off I've never seen a BHAF collapse yet. Even with my pulling 47 PSI of boost. I've gotta ask about what is causing the collapse...

Not possible. The solenoid low current side is only ground to the PDC. The high current side is only between the grid heater and the battery. The solenoid low current side has no contacts and low current draw. Now like the fuel pump where the pump motor is affected by the bad contact in the relay. But the ECM will not take any damage being its a very low current draw on the ECM side. Same set up...

This is partial because the Quadzilla changes the amount of throttle given to hold road speed. Just changing your fuel map will change how the transmission see throttle. If your tune is heavy fuel then cruise state you're going to be lighter on the throttle so the TV cable is pulled less. Now if you have a very light fuel curve you're going to be deeper into the throttle and pulling the TV cable harder.

Yes it's a multi-function stick/switch.

You need to contact @Dynamic which is our site transmission guru. He'll have the low down on how to make it shift into gear without stalling.

I'm pretty sure is post filter... Being the flow map is... Inlet -> Water separator -> Pump -> Fuel Filter -> Outlet -> Return to tank

This is because all the canned tuners like Edge Juice, Edge Comp and even Smarty S-03 doesn't give enough control of the fuel timing maps to clean them up properly. Now Quadzilla Adrenaline and Smarty Touch have the abilities for larger injectors and allows for timing and fuel adjustment to fit just about any injector from +50 to +200 HP without much thought.

https://www.amazon.com/Holset-HE341-Blade-Compressor-Wheel/dp/B01BUK4AR2

Weeping that doesn't stop with crossover tube o-rings is typically the mating face of the injection line is either rotten or been over torqued and crushed. Injector line replacement is required. I ended up with this issue and the leak stopped as soon as the new lines went on.

Don't bother coming here I'm never home very long. When I'm at home the last thing on my mind is cooking...

This is fine. Just install the snubber at the AirDog and the run 5 foot of air brake tubing up from there and remote mount the sensor up under the hood. The length of tubing allows for the remaining pulses to fade out in travel.

Actually, its 7 to 12 PSI is an optimal cranking pressure range. Above the 12 PSI, it could produce hard starting because the timing is over advanced during cranking. About a one pulse per second or so. Switching off and on the power to the lift pump. As the FSM calls it a 50% duty cycle. Once the ECM detects idle RPM then the ECM switches to 100% duty cycle for powering the lift pump. Be honest I should replace my relay being its already had two locked up pumps with enough load to pop 20 Amp fuses. I'm sure my contact could be getting weak and this is not a bad idea. It would ensure the power to the pump motor without issues. The normal operation I don't think there is a lot of arcing for relay being if everything is working correctly the pump shouldn't be drawing 20 amp but much less. With over 10 years of service on my relay, it might be a good idea to replace it.

You might want to start another thread and the post up copy of the data log and the tune so we can work with the info some.

ECM is struggling to defuel enough to get the idle speed down to 800 RPM. It should dance back and forth above and below 800 RPMs with engine load never touching that low. @Collinst15 and @Unreal Summit both sounds like your injectors are worn out.