Mopar1973Man

Ah... I'm getting dressed to drive over 180 miles so I can get the tube out of my back today... Major party for me!

7 x 0.010 VCO @ 320 bar... Towing season is coming close for me. I'm working on my fuel map on the Quadzilla and just figured out how to control EGT's so you can stand on the throttle without getting stupid high EGT's maxed out at 1,100*F at WOT. I'm going to have this all mastered out really well by the time I hitch up my 31 foot Jayco at about 8,000 pounds. Boost max: 47 PSI EGT Max: 1,100*F @ WOT Just working on smoothing this out a bit more.

Ummm... I've never replaced the rear seal on my truck yet. But the rear seal can be unbolted from the block and pressed out and the new one pressed in.

Naw. Good fuel to air right now just pointing out that my little HX35/40 hybrid is not capable of reaching 61 PSI of boost which I think is laughable. The 47 is my typical max shown on the ISSPro gauge. I'm just pointing out don't rely on the Quadzilla gauge being it just the ECM sensors that your seeing. It's good for diagnostic work, but for accuracy. It better off having a full set of gauges than relying on the a tuner gauges. (Edge Juice, Quadzilla, Smarty Touch (partially) being that 2nd Gen its still using the same sensor. As for the 3rd Gen and up I think is different but can speak for them.

All my holes were filled with oil. I didn't bother to do much for clean up on that. Drop the studs in the holes and started to snug them up to the bottom with an Allen wrench.

Ugh... Slow. But still moving forward. Actually got dress in jeans today even with the tube in my back and the bag on my leg. Energy level kind of low today. But healing takes a lot of energy to do. Still awesome to report the pathology is CLEAN, no cancer can be found.

LEDs still produce heat for extra bright bulbs. So far I'm very impressed with https://superbrightleds.com they have done me right for 2 orders now. They do a full lookup by year make and model. Bulbs always fit. They do give an optional oversized bulb too that may be bigger and brighter. List all brightness in lumens. I did this for the interior blubs knowing the ample room and lighting time is typically short.

Bump the key test the ECM lift pump connection? (Power yes or on) Bump the key test the AirDog Power Relay? (Power yes or no) Bump the key and test the AirDog pump motor? (Power yes or no) Any odd sound will the pump is running? (Sounds typically point to bad bearing and shaft seal) Any fuel leaking off the pump motor? (Signs fo bad shaft seal)

Auto's don't have an anti-stall feature. When you drop the throttle you have to do it slow towards the bottom. The idle software isn't capable of catching a rapid fall of RPM. If you getting high boost pressures while in the burnout it possible to push compression gases back up the injectors backward if the injectors are worn out and popping low as you drop the throttle suddenly. This would answer why the reprime and cracking the injectors.

Only two styles...

Yes. Also need to do the W-T ground wire mod.

Yeah, I decided to check the WOT and boost pressure. Funny it reports my maximum boost pressure of 61 PSI. My ISSPro gauge shows barely 47 PSI maxed out running this gauge is correct. I know that this is all MAP sensor error. I figure I'd share this tidbit.

Yes sir.

Again simple. Just unplug the switch and see if the lights go out. If so the switch is bad. Pure and simple. 3157 bulb is not getting enough to light but still running current. LEDs just take much less current to light up. Since the switch is either open or close it seem the contact is lightly being pressed. Is the shift selector slightly out of adjustment?

Make sure to tag @pepsi71ocean about your experience with your rebuilder... Need to keep the data flowing.

1/8 NPT to 1/8 tubing There is a reason for the remote mount. First, it moves the sensor to an accessible place. Now I can easily add a tee and hook up a test gauge and test for problems. The second, I wanted to get 5 foot or more of 1/8 tubing for suppression of the pulses. I've already seen what grease gun hoses do in the past which is pass the pulse through which does nothing why I figured out what I did. As for ISSPro Fuel Pressure gauge sensor it nearly 10-year-old now and never been replaced. Still working prefect.

Done that method a time or two for others...

I still say switch is bad. Positive 12 volts will not jump a gap in ATF. I can see if the switch was ground and bleed being the entire transmission is ground. But +12V is not going to jump ATF and only to the reverse light. At any point electricity takes the easy path not one with resistance.

Automatically handled with a Quadzilla tuner for the 2nd gen set the temp you want it keeps the truck running till the temperature is hit. Then it shuts down the engine for you. You can turn the ignition off and lock the truck and just walk away. I've got my Quadzilla set for 275*F. I wish the Smarty Touch for the CR engines had a cooldown timer. Sadly, it does not.

Ummm... That is why we all exist here on this website we can't leave well enough alone. We are always thinking and planning on how to improve what we have for a vehicle.

What I'm trying to point out there is a wide range of fluid people can use in transmissions (manual and auto). Just some people get way too hung up on fluid specs and fear of transmission damage. In either case the auto or manual all the parts are harden steel and bearings. Then the bands and clutch like syncros in the manuals. As long you understand what the requirements of the bands, clutch and syncros the door open up to a wide range of fluids you can use and viscosities and ratings. We are both in the modified transmission realm and using non-standard fluids and no problems. (Just make other members think)

I'd be the first one with my multi-tool pulling the intake boot and looking at the turbo saying, "Naw, nevermind engine been dusted out... What else do you have?"

Thank for catching that...

Those Parker Push-lock fitting hold up pretty darn good!