Mopar1973Man

Mitchel is a cool guy to work with. I've done a lot with him. Lenny and Nate, my memory bit fuzzy about them. Still in all DAP has a good crew to handle just about any need you have! Thanks, @dieselautopower for taking care of my members here as well!

As more torque is needed the more retard you need to get back to spooling of the turbo.

I've tested my filter minder numerous times and the amount of vacuum is so light to pull the disk all the way down is unbelievable. If the filter minder isn't moving then there is zero worry about filter restriction. There is a difference between speaking a bunch of specs from a book than actually making real-world measurement and find out there is a whole different world and information. This why I don't get all crazy about specs in a book. I'm more into actual real-time measurements and what a device or part can really do. Just like my turbo is way outside its mapped area specs wise but real-world measurement it works awesome. Great sprint turbo for quick boost of power for passing.

Secondary plan is in action now. Pack the RV and move down to Parma temporarily till things settle down a bit more. Jayco is hitched up, new plate and tags. Water lines flushed of anti-freeze. All systems have been tested and ready for service. Just gotta hope that everything holds up till tomorrow. Total rain up to this point is 2.1 inches... Even a bit of youtube fun today...

I'm going to bring up something... Some of you know I've been battling bladder cancer. Personally, I think my bladder cancer is from all the brake cleaner and carb spray and carb dip I've used over all these years and now caught up to me. I would look for other options of engine cleaning other than these toxic sprays. Myself I use Home Depot degreaser concentrate which is an acid based cleaner. Then lots of power washing with 3,000 PSI power washer. It keeps it clean. Another one that works too is just spraying diesel fuel on a cold engine and leaving it to sit a bit and the power washing off.

Yea... New Meadows is flooding out. My neighbor happens to catch me leaving the logging company in New Meadows and you can clearly see I'm swimming the truck across the parking lot. Hydrologic Outlook IDC003-015-025-039-045-075-085-087-ORC001-025-045-082130- Hydrologic Outlook National Weather Service Boise ID 144 PM MDT Sun Apr 7 2019 /1244 PM PDT Sun Apr 7 2019/ ...RAIN AND SNOWMELT WILL BRING THE POTENTIAL FOR MINOR FLOODING ALONG RIVERS AND STREAMS EARLY THIS WEEK... A series of weather systems will impact the region through early this week and bring periods of rain to the area. Moderate to heavy rainfall is possible through Monday, especially across northern Baker County, and the West Central and Boise Mountains. Snow levels as high as 8000 feet are expected. The combination of rain and accelerating snowmelt will cause sharp rises on rivers, creeks, and streams with minor flooding possible. At this time, some of the rivers that could reach bankfull or minor flood stage early next week include the the Silvies River near Burns, the Weiser River near Weiser, the Middle Fork Payette River at Crouch, and Mores Creek. A Flood Watch is in effect for the Silvies River near Burns and the Weiser River near Cambridge and Weiser. Areas with deep snowpack such as the Long Valley, Round Valley, and the Camas Prairie will see increased runoff as well, which may cause ditches to overflow, leave water standing in fields, and impact low-lying roads. Rivers and streams will be running high and swift. Exact impacts of the runoff will depend on how fast the snow melts and how much rainfall occurs. Continue to monitor the forecast for the latest details. Here is the river flow report in my area... https://waterdata.usgs.gov/id/nwis/uv/?site_no=13316500&PARAmeter_cd=00065,00060,00010

Stock lift pump sure. Being there was no fuse or relay protect in the stock setup. Now with AirDog and FASS system come with a 20 amp fuse and protection relay I seriously doubt there is any way to cause damage to the ECM unless there was a wiring fault that shorted the ECM lines. Now I can see the transistor blowing up in the ECM that switches power on and off.

Not to take the wind from your sails is not my intention but... There was actually a note long ago back in the 98.5 that Dealers were aware of tuners present on the vehicle just by check the overhead computer and see what is displayed. This was an instant way for the dealer to turn around and void the warranty on the truck because there is a tuner present. Even if you were using a Smarty S-03 that clams to no leave a footprint in the ECM but it leaves the clues on the overhead computer.

What happened? What was found wrong with the PCM?

That can be explained too. The overhead console or as well all call it the overhead idiot. First of ECM does not produce a GPH flow rate figure on the ECM. This has to be calculated from boost pressure and a few other things. Now with a tuner and larger injectors, the commanded duration is much less giving the illusion of being higher MPG but actually, the flow amount is the same as it was before. Like my, Quadzilla is using a 47% offset to correct for 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar injectors. Using my last fuel log entry of 20.8 MPG now calculate the 47% offset would have shown 30.57 MPG on the overhead idiot. Now if you running oversized tires on the odometer is screwed up adding to the mess. Like for my setup, my idle engine load is about 11 to 12% then my cruise at 65 MPH is 19% engine load. This is way lower than the most stock truck that is up around 30% and 35% engine load for 65 MPH. In my case, I've flashed the ABS computer to report the correct speed and mileage. Then the Quadzilla can compensate for the injector flow and show accurate data on MPG. Like my last tank, I was only off by 0.08 gallons between the pump and the Quadzilla. You best off yanking that overhead idiot out and putting the plastic plug up there. 99% of the data given is junk. At least this data is dead on...

Actually, I'm packing the RV as we speak and bailing out for south to Parma to @Smarty Support place. Why? The snowpack and heavy rainfall have brought the rivers and creeks up big time. I've got to think more about MoparMom getting to her dialysis treatments. No. I'm staying semi-idle for now while I heal and handle things a bit slower for now. Once I'm healed up and riding 20 miles on the bicycle again I'll be ready for all you crazy Cummins Nuts by then. I'm going to pack my laptop and try to get work done while I'm hiding in Parma for the next week. @JAG1 you bring yourself up here and you bring your bicycle and we'll see who can make it up the Big Salmon River or not... I'm game how about you? PS: That turned out awesome using my cellphone cradle to hold my cellphone while it records video.

Yeah, that is close enough. Basically, the Edge and Quadzilla listen to the CANBus data and then when its time to add more power the tuner now intercepts the message rewrites the data with the tune value and then set the priority bit to override the last command. Smarty S-03 or Smarty Touch completely rewrite the entire fuel timing tables from the ground up with custom information. This comes at a price there is no cooldown timer. No warmup mode lockout. No defuel limits. High idle is the ECM high idle controlled by IAT temperature. There is some adjustment of fuel and timing but extremely limited for the 24V trucks. Way different on CR engine where the Smarty Touch is 210 HP tuner on the 24V trucks is just a mere 60 HP tuner. Quadzilla on stock injectors would be able to reach that no problem. It will take some tune work to get that but it can do it. As for reliability and longevity speak, I'm currently at 500 HP roughly and closing in on 400k miles. I've made a few upgrades to reach this but nothing crazy. Injectors, Quadzilla, Used HX35/40 turbo, ARP 425 Head Studs, etc.

From Wikipedia... The A618, later renamed 47RE (electronically controlled governor pressure) is a heavier-duty version of A518 also known as the 46RE (which also has electronically controlled governor pressure, versus the earlier RH version, which was hydraulically controlled). It was used in trucks and vans starting in the mid-1990s. While currently used with some internal changes such as the move from aluminum to steel planetary carriers and an increase in the number of clutch plates when coupled to the 5.9 L Cummins Turbo-Diesel and the 8.0 L V-10 applications, it's still a 727 with overdrive and stronger internal parts. It has an input torque rating of 450 lb⋅ft (610 N⋅m). The 48RE is an electronically governed, ECU controlled, four-speed heavy-duty overdrive automatic transmission, that is stronger than its predecessor, the 47-series. The base design from the original Torqueflite remains largely unchanged and the addition of a 2-speed output shaft (overdrive unit) that is bolted to the back of the 3-speed transmission has only two ratios: direct (1:1) and overdrive (.69:1). While lubrication to the overdrive unit was a challenge early on, this challenge was later overcome with factory improvements and/or aftermarket valve body kits. The overdrive planetary has six pinion gears (unlike the 5 pinion used with the A518 used with the Cummins turbodiesel) which is often used as an aftermarket replacement for the stock 4 pinion planetary used with the lighter duty transmissions.

Correction... Any tuner will have a boost fooler. Just remember you extremely limited on what you can do. Here is the app I'm running and work awesome for tracking MPG data and maintenance data. https://simplyauto.app/ Hear nor there I'm sorry to say. We need to see long term data. Like here is 3 years of fuel log data and you can see when I was towing trailers. Then see when injectors started to fall low on pop pressure. Good fuel logs are critical to know if you are doing the right thing or not.

Just thinking of it... Might have to bring the cruise timing load value down. Might be hanging on the cruise timing too long or too high of engine load percentage. Then take your load based timing and increase it. This will give more retard to the timing when you fall out of the cruise timing state getting the turbo spooled back up.

HE351 is just about the same as my HX35/40 Hybrid.

This should help out.

Man, I'm so glad I've got a plain ol' open diff. Heading for 400k miles and the only thing I need to do is change the petroleum gear oil out every 30k miles with the fresh batch of 80w-90 GL-5. Cheap and working flawlessly for a long time.

Heck, you'd be better off with my HX35/40 (60/60/12).

Smarty S-03 and Smarty Touch both do boost fooler internal on there programming. But you'll only reach about 30-32 PSI at most. Remember Smarty S-03 and Smarty touch are only CANBus tuners. They both must play by the rules of the ECM. Hence why both tuners are typically limited to 60 HP tops. There are some claims that Smarty Touch can reach 100 HP. Still rather low for the price being Edge Comp and Edge Juice have reached the 120 HP mark long ago. Quadzilla at 180 HP.

Finding out there are people out there that want simple push button tuner. Keep in mind these exist out there but require that you start with stock fuel injectors and no bigger than about +50 HP tops. Like the Edge Juice, Edge Comp Edge EZ, and Smarty S-03, etc. Thes are all good tuners for stock trucks but you can never upgrade to bigger injectors without smoke or EGT's issues. Now the Smarty Touch ($1,700 full kit) and the Quadzilla Adrenaline ($675) are the only two tuners for the 24V trucks that allow for wider range of injectors and more precise tuning for your driving conditions. Full fuel and timing control of the injection pump. The Quadzilla shines above them all being you have full defuel limits you can set for protection. Then turbo cooldown that Smarty touch is missing and also no external gauges like fuel pressure are included with Smarty Touch. Remember the Smarty Touch is still just an Smarty S-03 tuner. You need all the other stuff like the Dongle, ComMod plug for programming on the fly, Smarty does not include the pyrometer, etc. Now for the 3rd Gen and above I would say Smarty Touch or MM3 tuner for sure. For the 2nd Gen 24V it strictly a Quadzilla thing. If you not willing to take the time to tune the Quadzilla I'm going to suggest not to bother. It's not a plug and an instant play tuner. You can't just make a tune perfect in mere minutes. Takes lots of driving time and working with different conditions and weather. Then you can get a good tune. Like Economy tune took me a good month of testing and tweaking to get above 20 MPG with 7 x 0.010 injectors at 320 bar. Which is well worth it, being the truck produces huge power on demand and still pass a fuel station.

Sure does in the fact of compression for ignition heat and also the ability to pump up pop pressure in the injection pump fast enough with possible worn injectors which might be bleeding out faster than popping. This why you need to close off the lines that seem to be pumping with a good flow so you can possibly make the injector pop off.

Now in a case like this go down to the local hardware store and buy a fender washer for the bolt that is missing in the photo. Now grind the washer in a tear drop shape and install. Problem fixed. That's all there is to it. But if you case look like mine you are already set. Close up the case and move on.

I would start with a Timbo's APPS first then see what happens. The dead pedal is the ECM way of protecting from an engine runaway. ECM had detected a value that is out of range and could be a dangerous condition of WOT. So instead of going WOT it dead pedal and does nothing for protecting your safety. Replace the APPS sensor first then we'll revisit this conversation afterward.

Fully charged batteries, good clean battery cables, and a strong starter make the difference between struggling to start and priming and starting fairly easy.