Mopar1973Man

Might be worth it to just see the ECM in and have it tested and verified.

Lucky enough. Only have HVAC and exhaust brake for vacuum. Non-issue for use without an CAD axle.

Remote mount the fuel pressure sensor is best. This is the wrong way...

Funny ARP 425 stud end at 125 foot/pounds...

Actually it will get worse if you crank up timing excessive or in the winter time with a canned tune like Edge. This is because as IAT falls below 80°F it cranks up nearly 4° of timing advancement. Then add high cetane fuel will add to the problem in the winter. Typically gets better in the summer.

High and low beam both. It's controlled by a shutter, not a bulb.

What is your 1500 and 2000 set for? If your 2000 is set for 18 degrees then a plus 1 would be 19 or plus 2 would be 20. That is how you figure cruise timing.

You are the only one of the group that got to meet Betty...

Should hit about 19 to 20 degrees typically at 2k RPM while in cruise timing. Flat ground cruise set at 65 MPH set your cruise load limit maybe 1 to 2% higher than your current cruise engine load. Slight rattle is normal but it should drop out when you pass your load limit. Timing should retard.

Out my way 1st and 2nd Gens everyone wants.

Still in all having them prebuilt saves you the labor and frustration of making mistakes and starting over to fix the mistakes.

Grey RTV here for the rear diff.

Our previous mail lady was good friend of the family. Betty Holderness she delivered mail till cancer took her life. She drove over 520k miles on a Subaru. She never missed a work day and always got the mail delivered.

Umm you mean ladies... We have got two gals that do the USPS. Then my local FedEx is a gal. Then UPS has been a guy.

In all the shops I've worked in they used RTV on lots of stuff and typically it comes back leaking. Like Myself I replaced the tappet cover gasket without sealant, no leak. Now on my intake gasket, I used gasket tack. Bad choice. It took hell and high water to scrap that gasket off when I pull the head. Nope. I'm not going to use that again. The old OEM gasket was laid down without sealant or tack. It was baked hard and stuck to the intake but it came off with a bit of work and scraped off with a putty knife.

Got to remember all gaskets and seals are installed on these engines without sealant or gasket tack. This is a big mistake most people do is assemble parts and then use RTV or other products where its should not be used. The only thing on these engines that takes silicone is the gear case cover.

If those are original injectors time to change them. Injectors in common rail trucks should be changed every 100k miles for safety reasons. If you overextend the use of the injectors you take a risk of melting down the engine. I highly suggest you look towards new injectors like BBi. Yes, the price is steep but at least they are truly new injectors. Valve lash is a maintenance item. Most people don't keep up with very well. I would run through the valve lash when you take the valve cover off for the injectors.

I've got about 3,500 miles on this oil change and my oil level drop a whole 2mm on the stick and resting on the full mark exactly. My last oil change I was just a just that 2mm over the full mark. I'm not going to even sweat it.

Called my neighbor to the south of me. He's been picking up the mail for us. The house is fine and the power is back on. We'll attempt to get home on Saturday. I'm going to leave the RV in Parma for now. Great fallback plan in place. Oh yeah my LED's for the RV made it too.

I done the same thing and dumped over a gallon trying to get out of the forest with a load of firewood on my truck. Then another time I dumped over half gallon panic stopping on a grade to avoid hitting a deer. The fan slung oil all over the engine and everything in both cases. My design is from snowmobiles. You can roll the truck upside down and not leak at all. Being the end of the tube is higher than the level of oil upside-down. If tip it nose down steep the end of the pipe is still higher than the level of oil.

Yeah I totally agree @Bwebb2119 you need to start another thread so we can step through the issues.

Mine slobbers like that near the rear of the control arms. Totally normal. I might lose less than a pint of oil in 10k miles.

Yeah, that is one thought about cleaning the frame off of salt...

HID are the best solution for vehicle lighting bar none. Please do not consider LED headlight unless you willing to do Morimoto LED's where are just as expensive. I got mine from Retro Shop. https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO Then I installed PIAA LED's driving lights. Those aren't cheap either but super bright. Brighter than the Morimoto HID's http://www.piaa.com/store/p/146-LP-530-Fog-LED-Light-Kit.aspx Then the front marker lights in a switch back bulb... https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/3157-switchback-led-bulb-dual-function-60-smd-led-tower-a-type-wedge-retrofit-car/1916/4478/ Now I'm highly visible and plenty of light to see in the worst conditions.