Mopar1973Man

Make sure you select the right vehicle. V2 98.5 to 2002 Dodge.

Ok. Update of the firmware is done. I'll report back after today.

So you back to buying quality headlights housings. I know it sucked big time to spend the $1,000 of front lighting. I'm Highly impressed with the amount of light I cast in the dead of winter and can see up to 1 mile out. Morimoto D2S HID Headlights PIAA 530 LED Driving Lights Switchback marker lights Worth every penny...

Problem... Cargo lights are a switched ground (pink/black) with a constant +12V (pink) Brake lights are switched +12V (white/tan)... With constant ground (lt green/black) If the LEDs have common ground then you stuck with what you got. My idea is I'm going to use the factory lighting but switch then all out for LED bulbs. I've been doing the looking at the bulbs and prices.

Make sure you change your turn signal bulbs before installing. It will piss you off to have to pull it again because you want to change blown blub or change to switchback LED bulbs like I did.

IN 32 years of driving I've NEVER had an explosive tire failure... Don't get me wrong I've had flat tires where pick up a nail and slowly leak down. I'm very aware of what is going on around me and my vehicle and trailers. Most of my tires failures have sidewall rock cuts I've had most of them are unrepairable. Never have I shredded a tire with a violent explosive failure going down the pavement. I've ran everything from China Bomb on the truck to China Bombs on the trailer and still always worn them out.

Might read up...

A correction, that is a 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar tune. Version 1.1.0 is a safe tune yet. I've not released my crazy timing tune yet... Coming soon.

You'll enjoy those headlights I promise! Ummm... Just zip tie to the fender.

You'll have to load a tune. The default tune is based on stock injectors, not 100 HP injectors so timing will have to change.

Once those 3 are flowing good close them and the hit it with a small shot of ether and light it up.

Got to have at least 3 lines closed with prime to make it start.

Here is where I'm at... NOTE: -50°F on Quadzilla to match my ISSPro EGT gauge. Then +1 MPH to match my GPS and cluster. Running down I-84 in the trucker lane at 70 MPH with traffic. Remember I'm running 320 bar on pop pressure. 7 x 0.010 injectors and ARP studs. Shocker to pull EGT's down to just below 600°F in EGT's at 70 MPH.

Most likely have a suction air leak or possibly the starter is turning over too slow because the starter worn out or batteries are too weak. Most likely sucking air being you can start it on ether but it fails to keep running.

Higher timing = Lower EGT's At least on my 24V I'm running 26° of timing at 2,000 RPM in cruise state. Making in the 20 to 22 MPG now. There is other things like my pop pressure is up at 320 bar so I need more timing for the late injectors. Being you've got a P-pump you are going to get very experienced in setting timing being that is the key factor to good MPG. NOTE: -50°F for the pyro to be right with my ISSPro Gauge then +1 MPH to right with my GPS.

No, I already have seen the same lights on a local truck here. The only difference he went cheap with the H1 mini lens. Now as for the bumper gap that most likely because I was too lazy to fight to line up the bumper exactly. Got it close by myself and called it good. I came out on top being that D2S lens cast way more light than the H1 mini lens do. I also opted for the 35w bulbs and ballast which is for longevity reasons where there is a 50w option too but you shorten the life of the bulbs. Skipped all the demon eyes and other optional stuff and stayed basic and focused more so on longevity and performance.

Gear puller.

1973 Dodge Charger SE - 400 CID was replaced with a 383 CID. 727 torqflite 3 speed transmission.

Right off of Carlisle manufacture website. https://www.gallaghertire.com/about/carlisle-st-faq

Trader...

Need to see live data tool that tach on the dash isn't all that accurate.

Depends on how much timing is on that p-pump on where the EGT's might land.