Mopar1973Man

Time to make a block off gasket. I was doing that back in the 1980's for the older 1970's cars in Cally. Use to sneak right on through the smog check and pass easily.

OMG!

In my case, it wasn't the sensor. It was the unit bearing tone ring failed. Way to see without expensive tools. If the speedometer is acting goofy its the rear sensor. If the brakes pull one side or the other it's a front sensor or if the speedometer is not acting goofy. Always replace the fronts as pairs. If that doesn't work the unit bearing need replacing.

Actually, on the last tank of fuel it was only off by -0.1 gallons. (359 miles / 17.882 gal = 20.14 MPG) Bucking serious winds 20-25 MPH. Cruise timing limit is cut at 22%. Remember I'm popped at 320 bar so the injectors are late. On I-84 set the cruise control for 70 MPH in the trucker lane. Still up there around 24 MPG. This is +7 cruise timing. 245's tires and 2,100 on the tach for mere 16% engine load. BOOYAH! (Doing my "Can't Touch This" dance...)

Yeah, it could but you going to have to work around the Hotrod timing advancement. Which you unable to control that static timing boost. So you going to amp up the retard side to get spool of the turbo.

Hotrod pumps are not good for tuners.

Mine went up in price quite a bit being I went from the H1 Mini's to D2S lens which has a bigger lens. Then the freight I had it increased to 2nd day to get them fast. Total of $720.

No. You can run headless. I love doing that quite a bit that way other people have no idea. I've still got my gauges on the a-pillar. Most of it you can do in realtime just watching the display. Then you need to listen to the might Cummins it will talk to you and tell you what it wants. Crazy Suggestion: Since your running studs already crank that cruise timing up for the daily driver tune. I'm now up to +7 degrees and doing excellent. Just past 21.32 MPG and still rising. EGT's are super low. Just math out you 1.5k and 2k band with the plus of the cruise number and make sure you stay below your largest amount of timing. (safety suggestion). Like my truck can run up to about 27 or 28 degrees maxed out on timing then the buck starts above that. This is my last step up cruise timing and where I'll stop. Do also remember I'm running 320 bar on the injectors so my event is late already.

Had to deal with rain last night and rising river water again. I don't think it will get as bad but had my alert up for me. Turning green out here and all my Vegan Animals keep showing up. Like this morning turkeys roaming the yard for breakfast. Then yesterday morning it was all the deer looking for something to munch on.

You buy them separately and install them your self and save quite a bit. I know @Me78569 can answer that part. I bought mine as a completed kit which was just bolt on and wire up. https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO

Something is wrong there. Idle is set for 800 RPM. If it's down to 750 RPM there is a problem.

Nope, that's about right. Now compared to me that is high. If you want to experiment with me. Start pushing the cruise timing up one degree at a time. Watch the EGT's and Engine Load. Then watch the MPG's. I'm all the way up to +7 cruise timing now for experimenting. Subtract -50 from the EGT's to match my ISSPro Gauge. Add +1 MPH to match my clutster and GPS.

Should of bought a quality headlight.

Needle valve for a shut off then stack the snubber on the valve. You'll be good.

21.32 MPG... I'm on my way to my high mark.

60 MPH is 1820 RPM for me. Then this tank should be killer 260 miles and only used a quarter tank. We will see...

65k miles. Hankook ATm 235/85 R16 - one year.

Personally, I'd never go back to the stock defused lens. Like on the 1996 Dodge 1500 I when with a clear lens.

Because the Smarty S-03 is designed for those injectors. Stock injerctors. RV275 injectors are so small you can get away with the Smarty. Now like Pepsi71Ocean he's running +100 HP injectors. Now if Smarty locks to 18* on my truck that would be too retarded. I'm upwards of 26* at cruise now and now getting into the good MPG numbers and super low EGT's. Where Smarty comes up short. (Add +1 to speed) (Subtract -50 from EGT's for correct EGT's)

Never blown a tire yet either on the truck or a trailer. Trailer tires typically last up to the 5 year limit with me. My BigTex has got the longest with China Bombs on Load Range C's and lots of treat but past the 5 year time period. Now it gets dangerous.

Tires. Ratio. It struggling against them. Do you have another set of tires you can swap temporarily?

Whatever is cheap. Mostly China Bombs what I buy... Just never seen one fail yet. My trick is I never buy a tire that is marginal and never inflate to max pressure so simple.

All the tools and information is here just gotta look around there is over 18 GB of web data here.

Math out your capacity and then the capacity of the tires. If you are too tight to the capacity of the tires go up another load range to F's. Like on my RV they installed Load Range D's and barely could hold the weight the tire where at capacity 90% loaded. So I went up to load range E's and now got lots of margin of room and don't have to run the tires at max pressure to cover the weight. This is a good thing.

The headlights on our truck... +12V -> Fuse -> Bulb <- Multifunction switch <- Headlight switch <- GROUND Our headlight switch controls the ground. The dimmer switch toggles the ground to the lo or hi legs. Now if you just pony up and go to Morimoto HIDs then that whole problem goes away. Lightweight 35w HID bulbs, the power is drawn straight from the battery. Everything is controlled by a single relay. I've done the Sport headlights. By the original design, you need 4 fuses and 4 relays. Then converting everything over to that system which still you end up with more electrical load on high beams you drawing 17 Amps total at 240 watts for four 60w high beam bulbs burning.