Mopar1973Man

Upload your tune to this thread. I'll look at your settings. It would be nice if you capture a data log for @Me78569 to review also. Are any error codes present? All wiring hooked up properly to the MAP sensor and Quadzilla? No damaged pins or wiring? Turbo in good condition? Wastegate not stuck open? Boost leaks? I know it's not cheap. When I figured out the tire to gear problem I got a local gent here in McCall, ID with 37-inch tires (3.00:1) and the same problem lacking power. It cost him a bit over $4,000 to have 3.55 gears removed and 4.10 gear installed. Massive power increase and MPG jumped back up to the high teens to low 20's.

Gear ratio is all wrong you need 4.10 gears in the axles to make this work right. Like I'm running 245/75 R16 tires with 3.55 gears. As you can see the ratio is much better and produces way more power! Optimal is 3.55 to 3.73 for highway use...

This is the number one cause of the pressure sensor failures for Quadzilla, Edge juice, and electric fuel pressure gauge. That is why I created this article long ago.

Yeah. the pulses ate the sensor. You need distance from the snubber to the sensor. Like having a loud speaker on one side of a wall and your head against the wall. The loud music will still damage your ear drum. Now move away from the wall a good distance now your hearing isn't damaged. Same thing here you need distance from the snubber (wall) to your ear (sensor). Wiretap good condition showing +12V with the key on engine off? What size tires and gear ratio do you have?

Not good. Your sensor is fried from the pulses from the VP44. No needle valve No snubber No distance from the tap point. Correct way. There is over 5 feet of 1/8 tubing from the tap point to the sensor. Needle valve for emergency shut off. Snubber installed just after the needle valve to dampen pulses. 5 feet of tubing to allow the remaining pulses to fade out over travel of the distance.

7 x 0.010 injectors. You could try my tune but its pretty light in the fuel for the most part. I'm running close to you. HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 7 x 0.010 injectors @ 320 Bar 4" inch exhaust BHAF

Glad it worked out for you.

You might want to dive into the tune database... https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/ I need to know what size tires you have and what gear ratio in the axles... Post a picture for your fuel pressure sensor. I want to see where its at and how it's set up.

Even my truck does too. It will toss a P0230 code if there isn't proper resistance on the lift pump circuit. I understand for guy like you in the California area you need to be error code clean!

I've got to ask what is your idle RPM? Then what is the reported engine load? I need both of these values from a fully warmed up engine. If the Engine RPM is above 800 RPM and engine load is below 5% I'm going to bet money the injectors are too low in pop pressure.

Have you updated the flash possibly? You are running the correct vehicle type I just wonder if the firmware needs updating.

Funny the OEM tierods on my truck lasted 350k miles. Must not be too bad of a design. But I've got the reason why I kept failures down. I've never ran larger tires. I'm actually running smaller than stock size. 265's what the truck was built with. I went to 235's shortly after the 3rd year. Then recently dropped to 245's which is a 1" shorter. Now I've reduced the stress on everything and not required to upgrade at all. Even reduced the stress on driveline and transmission too. Kind of like 190k miles on my current brake pads and won't need to replace them for another 150k miles roughly. I'm in the game for longevity.

The last thing I've seen where transmission pressure was low, the filter was filled with debris.

I was right... Too retarded. 1500 RPM = 15° 2000 RPM = 18° 2500 RPM = 21° 3000 RPM = 24° MAX = 27° Low psi reduct 4° Timing reduct scaling 50% Light throttle load limit 30% Adjust to what I posted...

Too retarded if it got grey smoke. What is your current timing settings?

Remember TV cable adjustments will change shift points and pressure. If the TV cable is not adjusted properly then the shift pattern can be altered.

Nice to be back home. Wow! what an adventure. I can say living in the rim area of big cities you might not have to travel far or get fuel often being the distance is shorter but MPG sure sucks. For that week of being in Parma, ID and running back and forth to Ontario I barely made 16.61 MPG. Ugh! I'm getting back on track and be rolling from home from here on out. As for the flooded area, it's like a bad dream it all vanished like it never happened. The mudslides you can see the mud and debris around the edge of the road. Then the belly washes are still present for the smaller one. The river flows are down for both Weiser River and Little Salmon River. Like this morning it's raining again. I'm going to keep an eye on the weather forecast and what I see in the rivers again. It is so nice to be back home.

I ran the first 10 years with a DiPricol fuel pressure gauge direct plumbed for 10 years. Just a needle valve (NAPA WH6820). Now in my second 10 years of ISSPro EV2 fuel pressure gauge with air brake line from the tap point to the sensor on the fender. Using ISSPro snubber. Looks similar to this.

What are you asking me to tear out my vacuum system and replace it with all air brake line and upgrade?

Also used for longevity. Like in my case I don't want to do head gaskets every 300k miles. The tinsel strength of the ARP 425 should keep the head from curling on the end over time. Where normal head bolt will give up and start to stretch allowing the head to curl. Stock head bolts are known for the curl problem. Then like @Bullet mentions that the clamping force to allow for more boost pressure is bonus. I done the math long ago but 30 PSI of boost and just the crank spinning without fuel being injected you reaching 1,100 PSI in the cylinder. Yes you need to keep the clamping force on for the head when you adding lots of timing and fuel. I was doing 47 PSI of boost on the stock gasket. I was lucky and not blown the compression part but the head curled and started leaking coolant out the rear passenger side of the head. My case is more about heat cycles and bolts getting weak. Cost me $2,000 with the valve guides, seals, machine work, gasket kit, and the ARP 425 stud.

Now I've got to wait till Tuesday to get back to the RV to install them.

Ditch the isolator. Install a WH6820 needle valve from NAPA. Warning the price jumped up on them. I would look towards a snubber from ISSPro which is a sintered metal snubber.

Finally got the LEDs for the RV. It will be nice to upgrade the RV. Like last night I was laying in bed but the overhead light was getting hot and smelling of burnt plastic again. Be awesome to have cool running lights like whats in my truck interior.

Since I made it home... Here is the joint connector 2 pin out... Looking at the joint connector I'm going to bet money either the wrong fuse is being used or excessive electrical load is placed on the joint connector. Being a majority of it is +12V power supply and only 3 pins are grounds. Then being trailer power is from here then it could be a trailer electrical issue and/or wrong fuse size used. Yes, I've seen dealers increase the fuse size and cross out the old fuse size.

In my case did exactly that and 2k miles later the transmission failed. While you there take note of the debris in the pan it might be time for rebuild.