Mopar1973Man

Biggest factor your up north in the cold country. I would suggest an AirDog and do some creative mounting. As for the FASS it's very very large and tends to hang in the damage path of the front tires. The pump needs to be strong enough to maintain 14 to 20 PSI at all times including WOT. With Canada cold you need a fuel system that can be tuck away from snow and ice and out of the blowing wind. This is a good layout. Protected by the transfer case and the skid plate. I've been to -40*C (-40*F) never gelled once. Since this picture I've moved my fuel lines inside the frame. Better protection from blowing cold. This is a bad layout and more prone to gelling up.

Now head over to HF grab a bag of shop rags. You'll need it. When the head is pulled off you'll be laying fresh clean shop rags over the exposed block. When the new head comes to make sure that all cylinders are clean and no debris in the cylinders before placing the head. That is one heavy chunk of cast iron.

Yeah, I know its illegal in Idaho but I've been treating my cancer with cannabis. I'm leaning on stronger CBD sided herb than the THC side. Cancers tend to respond better with an equal amount of both CBD and THC strains. This why I tend to favor the smoke / vape side more so. It's not the filtered down industrial hemp that CBD is typically made from. From just what I've done so far I've managed to beat two surgeries and healed my right kidney completely. Here is a cannabis wheel...

Even my 4-inch muffled Diamond Eye drones really good by 15 PSI of boost. By 40 PSI she is screaming out that 5-inch tip. Loud!

For factory 47RE I would stick to the ATF+4. Modified transmissions tend to be able to tolerate the ATF+3 because of the different clutch material that some rebuilders use. I remember @Dynamic telling me about the fluid differences.

Try getting down to the empty mark. I've been down below the 1/8 tank with the low fuel light on. I'm like you, I don't like being below 1/2 tank either because of the distance I do travel. Quadzilla is very handy that my fuel gauge is rather strange. The half mark is true 17.5 gallons to fill. Then 3 gallons later I drop from 1/2 to 1/4 tank. Even as its falling below 1/4 I've still got 10 gallons. Instead of panic time, I was very relaxed knowing that I had plenty of fuel yet. When I did fill up I was only off by 0.3 gallons.

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

4 inch exhaust with muffler. Still fairly loud in the cab with drone. Mostly climbing grades. My 3 inch was much quieter. As for EGT I've had no change really from 3 to 4. More change with the Quadzilla for EGT.

My current pile is working on 4th gen articles. Right working my way through OBDII error codes.

A good suggestion... That all suspension and u-joints that are pressed just get replaced every 100k miles. If anything makes it as far as ours at 350k to 400k miles it's just totally insane to get the rusted parts or of axles and shafts. I'd rather change out a good joint at 100k miles easily than fight a rusted u-joint that been in place for 17 years of rust. UGH!

Actually... I started in 2004. The original web address was http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar1973man which was the very start of the website which was nothing more than my personal notes and tidbits from what I learned. I started at Diesel Truck Resource got booted out because of having my own website. Then moved to CF and still hold a contract with them to this day. I'm permitted to post article pages but no forum links. I've got a lifetime premium membership. Then M73M domain was purchased back in October 4, of 2007 and the M73M continued to grow. Then M73M grew so much it became a full-time job just keeping the site rolling. I'm still debugging the server and fixing weird issues. Eventually, I'll get this to settle down and then move back to building articles.

Nope. 1970... Now you are going to ask why 1973? That was the first car I own was a 1973 Dodge Charger SE. The web name came from my original email of moparman@cyberhighway.net this internet company failed and we switched to Frontier. When I did the username moparman was gone. So I used mopar1973man@frontiernet.net being it was available. Which both of these emails are now gone and now using mnelson@mopar1973man.com Yeah, I know it. Wake up in the morning feeling like I've been beaten with an ugly stick. Then take a hot shower to loosen my lower back muscles and then I'm good for the day. Now with the 20-mile bicycle ride that got the entire lower half of my body sore. Oh well, I'll keep pushing. I'm actually enjoying the bicycle rides and traveling that way. Nice way to relax once in a while.

Wow! @Russ Roth and @015point9 ... Heck of a story there Russ... That is sad to hear you listed as terminal. Hopefully the Good Lord willing that this healed in his own way. Never thought I could get cancer this soon in life either but I've been told already that there is a 95% survival rate with bladder cancer. My next surgery is to double check I'm good. Got my fingers crossed. @015point9 I've got a friend in Riggins with a wife with a brain tumor as well. She is doing good right now and going to live life to the fullest. Had some other medical issues but she keeps springing back. She is even younger than I am. I just keep marching forward the best I can... I might not be fast but I'm still moving forward.

Kind of figured. They get heavy really quick. I like the bumper as well just know that there is that weight factor. I've seen plenty I'd love to have on my truck just too heavy for my blood. My problem is I haul heavy in the summertime hauling firewood and my RV. So far with my lastest tune I've managed a solid 18 MPG at 80 MPH on the I-84 on the last weekends tank. Then my 65 MPH is netting right at 19.6 MPG on the last tank. My 55 MPH shows to be in the 24-25 MPG mark range on Quadzilla which is very close to right.

No. You got to use the ATF+4. The friction modifier is required for the clutches. ATF+3 doesn't have any friction modifier.

Just like my buddy thought too. Taken a 3rd gen flatbed and heavy front bumper and increased overall truck weight by 1,400 pounds. Now trying to gain MPG back and lower EGTs which now are higher.

No. Mine failed at 350k miles and required a 50 ton press to get them out. The first one I beat out with sledgehammer and took better than 4 hour beating to get the old joint out. The other one I could move at all and required a 50 ton press.

Other solutions for lighting... Why not go brighter and lower amperage draw. My Morimoto HID headlights are mere 35w and brighter than factory headlights much wider path of light. Then the PIAA LED 530 driving lights are even brighter than my Morimoto HID and draw a mere 15w total. Then my last mod was installing switchback marker bulbs which are seriously bright and draw a mere 3.1 amps. Much more lighting than old school halogen bulbs with much less load on the alternator. Body grounds are the smaller gauge wires from the body to the battery. I've been looking at it differently by finding ways of improving things but reducing the electrical loads on the alternator.

Every truck I've ever seen with cab light did leak at some point. This applies for Ford, Chevy and even Dodge.

It took me 3 years to get the Quadzilla all figured out. I'm still learning new tricks all the time. Start easy. Set it for level 3 and work with only the timing and the CANBus fuel. Another tuning tip... With timing, you want to set the timing so you get the lowest engine load possible with minimal knock/rattle. So start with 16, 19, 22, 25. I'm thinking with the amount of fuel you are going to be needing even more than this but its a starting place. One that worked with my old 7 x 0.0085 which were worn out was 15, 19, 23, 27 this gave +4 spread between bands getting the timing up fast in the RPM's. This might work better with large nozzles. Not sure but just odd thoughts running through my head. As for fuel... Set for level 1 and keep working the valet mode down till you can accelerate heavy without smoke. Now switch up to level 2 now work your low boost fuel till you can reach 100% without smoke. This will build the defuel band to get the turbos to light. Now switch up to level 3 and build your entire fuel curve from the 100% to 150%. Again this is not done overnight, or in one day. Takes days of testing and debugging to get right. This why most Canned Tuners are OK for smaller injectors but absolutely suck for larger. The timing map is all wrong and the fuel map is too aggressive and smoke is typically a big issue with Canned Tuners. Bigger the injector the more timing typically needed, and more defuel needed down low.

Fine a set of stock sized tires to temporarily mount on the truck and see the difference. 31-inch was stock size typically but even 30-inch was stock too. As tires go up in size the lower the final ratio. Optimal for these truck is in the 3.55 to 3.73 final ratio.

So your final ratio is very low at about 3.22:1 which is why the truck struggles to clean up. To just get back to 3.55 ratio your axle gears would have to be 3.93:1 or for that axle you want 4.10 gears optimally... this would change the acceleration curve seriously. I admitted early this is partly out my scope. I'm making an honest stab in the dark.

Need tire size too. I'm trying to figure your final ratio out. This will make a difference in the tune, Like me, I dropped the 265's and sitting down on 245's which are a 30-inch tire. This affects the fuel curve and how quickly you can bring in the fuel without smoke. So if your ratio is 3.55 and less then you are going to need a much deeper cut of fuel and for a longer period till boost. 3.55 and higher ratio you can clean up smoke and spool much quicker so fuel can be brought in faster and get the wiretap in sooner. So this is what I figure the fuel curve too. So just in me dropping from 265's to 245's tires, it changed the final ratio from 3.55:1 to 3.69:1 this produces more torque at the rear axles and the smaller tires let the torque out to the ground easier. Then the ratio allows for fast spool up and acceleration has some G force in it now. So the final ratio has an impact to the tune. This is also a factor why one mans hardware does not work out the same for another man. Being there is other things that could impact the final output of your hardware and tune. Just thinking of the timing. Being you most likely have larger than stock you going to need to lean on the low boost timing and the percentage. This will allow you to have a fairly deep amount of retard of timing to get those turbos spooled up. As for the exact number I'm not sure what will work. Being this is based on the timing max. Just more food to digest...

That is something I don't suggest. I see this a lot where people attempt to copy someone else design but never quite get it right. You need to build one step at a time and fix bugs in the design as you go along. Using someone else design may or may not work out very well. Depending on the design and purpose of the use. Smoke can be altered by the pop pressure of the injectors. This is a double sided sword. One side you can raise the pop pressure and clean up the burn. Then the other side of the sword is that with higher pop pressures you lose some flow rate. I would consider the having them pop tested again if you unable to clean it up with tuning. Quadzilla is super easy. Try Smarty Touch on and you think twice about how easy Quadzilla is. Basically you need to build a fuel map and timing map first and run level 3. Forget the wire tap for now. Simply more timing is needed to clean up smoke basically you need to injector fuel early to get enough compression heat to vaporize the fuel to make it go BANG! When the timing is too retarded the fuel sizzles and smokes and produces no power. Now the CANBus fuel map is easy just figure your starting point using level 1 and start building a fuel map on up. As for tunning it's not once and you're done. Nope. I've now released 3 versions of the same tune fixing issues one at a time. I'm soon going to release another update and fix things from day to day driving. @Miami Outlaw Diesel I've got to ask what axle ratio and what size tires are you running?