Mopar1973Man

Error codes? Check with a scan tool. Report back the codes.

TST has no timing. That's why most stack with a smarty to make up the short comings.

Too wide of gap...(possibly) Lay a quarter (coin) on the bottom that what you measure too on an empty tank. No real notches needed I very lightly notch mine, not for volume but to prevent it from sucking flat to the bottom. The design is to let the deflection of the tank bottom rise up to the tip of the straw close to allow it to suck up as much fuel as possible. The bottom deflects another 3/16 or so with the full tank. So cutting the straw short causes the 1/4 tank issue.

High marked at 27.2 MPG, averaged about 22 MPG. Very difficult to do. Timing was wrong, too advanced in the winter time which I created the high idle mod and MPG fooler to fix that. (-1 point to Edge Comp). Then you have to drive 55 MPH (and under) all the time, if the engine load exceeds about 20% all the cruise timing is cancelled (-1 another point for Edge Comp). Drive like normal highway speeds the MPG dropped to about 18 MPG. At 80 MPH on the I84, it would drop deeper like 14 MPG.

That what we are for, everyone here is here to help others learn all the tricks. Oh blow by... I'm sure you not to this point right?

Best thing to do is ask a high mileage guy what he's running of oil and filters. Because if he made 500k, 750k or 1 million miles its a good choice of oil and filters. I'm coming up on 400k miles pretty quick. I know @dripley is nearly to 500k miles. Oh speaking of which make sure when the head comes off to snap a photo of the cylinders. I'm curious.

Most likely not clogged. 5 cylinders will run with a miss. Even 3 cylinders will run, like 3 cylinder high idle. Possible if your cranking pressure is above 12 PSI on the fuel pressure. These engines will start and run without ZERO fuel pressure. Not possible. Diesels are wide range of fuel to air ratios. Bad compression will have a ton of blowby vapor from the crankcase vent and typically losing oil out the vent.

Disconnect the CANBus lead and the MAP sensor and try again.

If there is over 100k on the stock I highly suggest they are replaced or pop tested.

Heck, even the GetRag 360 was 10w-30 engine oil. Then the G56 in the common rails is ATF+4 as well from the dealer.

The only reason I give this warning I've already came from Edge Comp. +50 HP injector is rather smokey and attracts a lot of attention to you. RV275's are OK still bit smokey injector but controllable. Stock injectors are the best being that Edge Comp is actually built around stock injectors more so. Smoke is a sign you need more timing advancement or less fuel. Yeah, I ran an Edge Comp for 10 years. I know it was hella smokey when I tested it on my 7 x 0.0085 +75HP injectors. no control of smoke at all.

Just checking. Sometimes people don't catch the pucks in the top of the springs. Just a leveling kit can alter the caster pretty good. Since its stock, I would say hit an alignment rack.

Extra ground isn't needed. You already have the monster cables from the passenger side and the driver side.

CANBus and MAP. Hook the XZT to the CANBus and MAP sensor. I'm going to highly suggest you never get big injectors.

Let's say that Dodge Dealer is now filling both NV4500 and NV5600 with ATF+4 transmission fluid. Since neither fluid is no longer manufactured. If your worried about specs then Dodge dealer choice of ATF+4 is telling me there is not much to the spec other than its got to thin fluid for shift quality.

Sure not a daily driver. Sure not street friendly if it rolls that much coal. That truck should be strictly track only and not driven on the streets. Then needing that much starting ether to fire up on 60*F morning. He must buy the ether in cases...

I tend to agree... The 24V Cummins is not a good one for retro fits. Yeah it can be done but there is a lot to do with the electronics and making them work right. Yeah the ECM will work as a stand-alone but all diagnostic info will be gone. Need the PCM for the CCD network and then you need the instrument cluster for the Bias voltage for the bus. Then you need the ABs computer for speed signal for cruise control. The whole thing starts falling apart quickly.

This is true too. I've got two cables that are only charging cable with no data pin connection. So those two cables do not beep at the time of plugging in. I do have one shot cable which is for my Garmin that also works for my Quadzilla.

Been through to two belts now. Still the belt squeal in my truck does happen it can be just as a simple as replacing the alternator and the pulley is painted black. Now the paint comes off and glazes the belt. That's what killed my last belt was a new alternator with black painted pulley.

You'll have to pull the turbo off the truck. The wastegate motor has a very strong spring which requires both hands to even install the wastegate motor new. There is nothing you can do with the turbo installed on the truck. No. Just need to remove the wastegate motor. Then the wastegate arm can be worked with to free it. Typically it rusted shut because of not using the full ability of the turbo.

P0234 is an over boost pressure code. Most likely the wastegate is rusted shut. The p2509 is a power issue from what I can find.

Reset all error codes. Then go for about 10 to 15 mile drive see if it returns. If it does there are issues with the PSG on the VP44.

If the front channel is dead from the stereo then both front speakers and tweeter are dead too. Wiring might be fine but the front channel is burned up.

Any leveling kits installed? Leveling kits change the caster as well.