Mopar1973Man

Much easier... https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-02-Dodge-Ram-Overhead-Console-Map-Light-Wiring-w-Switches-MOPAR-OEM-5013609AA/333030904466?fits=Make%3ADodge&epid=1717868005&hash=item4d8a305292:g:EugAAOSwlkpcSHD~ Look like white to the center contact and the other two go to the outside contact. So no matter what the light bulb has contact to either the yellow in one position and then black in the other position. So yellow being the door pin ground or black being force ground. The pink is the +12V. While that is out change the stock bulbs for LED's less heat up there for the switch and everything.

Highly suggest Timbo's APPS. You current APPS is plain worn out.

Old school straw and able to draw to empty. I've been below 1/8 tank many times. Its all in how the tip is cut and how close to the bottom of the tank.

SilverStars are about the best in a halogen. Then there are the big ones 100/80w blubs... https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-100-80WTB-Wattage-100-9004/dp/B078SJ19DK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=100%2F80w+9004&qid=1551842762&s=automotive&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

I know this does directly fit but... 2nd 24V the way of disabling is the fuel pump relay being it powers the VP44 PSG unit. Without that relay for power it never will start. I agree @AH64ID the injector control wiring will keep it from starting.

Typically my truck run in the 450-500*F range with exhaust brake on.

What dust boot? Never seen one... Should be all 3 u-joints should be the same number for the front shaft.

Suggestion. Grab a 30 amp aux relay and wire it up to get the trigger from the fog lamp relay. Then wire the light bar through on the relay so when you toggle hi beams the light bars and headlight are in hi beam. Then when you toggle lo beam the light bars are shut down. I built this same idea with four 100w spotlights across the front of my truck. 2 bulbs were for lo beam and 2 bulbs were for hi beam. Worked awesome for years.

When I get home I've got a Raptor of bits and pieces. Ill pull mine out.

Give me a bit... I'm getting close to releasing mine. Just trying to clean up the MPG side a bit more. I pretty much got it smoke-free and runs like a cheetah on cocaine. Running 7 x 0.010 injectors and an HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12). Thanks for letting me know about the classified area. I get after that today.

You're stuck. There is no LED bulb capable of being used in a factory reflector period.

Lucky...

With all the time I'm down in Ontario, OR and being in the big city for 4 to 5 hours. I see plenty of people that are looking for the easy way to everything. When you panhandling on the street corner and you got enough money for propane heater while you stand there I think you're just being too lazy. You have no respect for yourself or others. As for automotive work, it's getting pretty bad. I'm watchful of everything. Even simple thing like tire rotation or rebalance I watch the guys like a hawk. Sorry, I'm just not very trusting being the number of miles I put down. I need the failure rate as low as possible. The number of people I hear from and the stories of shops and repairs done and the crap that was half baked. OMG!

Let me get back to that... I'll gather intel on that and show you want that town has to offer.

Sad to say... Todays younger generation are not wanting to work, so the work they do is substandard. I'm the type to double and triple check stuff like installing a clutch because I don't want to pull a transmission back out because I was lazy and not torqued the bolts with torque wrench and done it twice.

@Cowboy is one member with 12V. Hmmm... If I think of other members I link them.

It part of the warranty process. If you just change out the pump you take the risk of debris in the lines that damaging the new pump. All pump suppliers all request a full system flush before installing a new pump. Power Steering pumps on 2003 and above are Ford pump and gearbox.

At least on the 24V the alternator charge line runs beside the ground for the PCM, ECM and VP44. Creates that issue. Being the 12V doesn't have a ECM and VP44 PSG those are out. But as for grounding of the PCM I'm not sure.

That's the whole problem to measure at the time of the problem. You could just have the alternator bench tested.

Now measure at highway speed. Start watching when the TQ conv starts hunting.

Ask @Me78569 about his Spicer ball joints...

I changed them early at 30k miles. Yea I need to leave them in longer. I'm changing too early at 30k miles. Factory rate 15k miles is like fresh out the box yet. Running good ol' petroleum diesel. Mostly from Maverik Fuel Stations here on the west side.

Just select the normal front amber bulb then. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/front-sidemarker-light-bulb/3156-3157-ck-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/7522/?year=2002&make=22&model=1351&scc_id=1396 Here you go. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/back-up-light-bulb/3156-3157-ck-led-bulb-dual-function-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/?year=2002&make=22&model=1351&scc_id=1427 Actually once outside in bright daylight not bad.

AC noise from the alternator affects all sensors with speed. Like tachometer, output speed sensor, ABS speed sensors, etc. The bad part is the only tool that can see the noise is o-scope.

Alternator noise issue possibly. Here is the fix for the 24V I'm not sure how it will pan out for the 12V.