Mopar1973Man

Worked out...

Well errr OK. I thought that's what the 3rd round pin for was grounding. If the cord inside is the green wire is attached to the toolbox metal then just plugging in the plug should ground the box. Having GFI plug in the shop just makes it even better.

@Brent B3HH I think you get the drift I've got a bunch of nuts all over the place. You right near JAG1 there in Beavercreek. @JAG1 Not yet we are still in thawing phase up here. Might be a long while for any forest camping. @IBMobile Pink Floyd I never would have figured...

Kind of doesn't work too good when it's in a box with the trigger locked. Works much better on your hip ready to go loaded. Like mine is loaded and worn nearly daily. Never leave home without it. Firestar 9mm Made in Spain...

The first problem I see... Windows... Yuk!

I just had some wonky limits set that when the wiretap hit it would bang the rear axle, then suck you into the seat. Once I played a bit and got the limits set about right then the wiretap mellowed out a bit more.

Ummm... Those are cluster codes. Another issue to itself. I need you to plug in an OBDII code reader and then report back the error codes. Don't bother with the key trick it's not reliable.

The P1694 is a communication error with the ECM which is not responding. I also agree you need to ditch those pumps and get to a full FASS or AirDog fuel system. Anything that uses the stock lines will never keep up with volume while under load. Fuel pressure needs to stay between 14 to 20 PSI.

Around here I'm sorry to say it rather tough for work too. I'll keep my ear open for any leads though.

No longer in my truck removed all that junk.

Exhaust brake is a good suggestion. Drill and slotted are prone to cracking and warping easy. I just made a post about my brake inspection 190k on my pads still over 50% life. Maybe 300k ill change them. Still got my OEM rotors. Now climbing watch the Pyro it passes 1,100F downshift and kick the RPMs back to 2,000 and hold. I do 750 to 1,000 miles a week!

Nope... You'll need an Android because the Quadzilla runs on a Smart phone or tablet. Time to upgrade?

I use an app called Simply Auto. It tracks All my fuel and maintenance. As for mods... I would do it all over again. Most of them I've done the study work before actually doing any mods. I'm not racing type but long haul. Different design.

I'll have to personal whip some tail for that... West side get together... Hmmm... Depends on the location.

Looks like its time for a Timbo's APPS.

Error codes? There is something going on with the PCM. The PCM is the master computer which starts the CCD Network without it the cluster will throw a No Bus message and then the gauges don't work. Possible P1698?

It most likely the wiretap. The CANBus fuel can do only so much then there is a threshold for the wiretap. Then there is a kick in the pants. You really can't make it too smooth on wiretap hitting. Mine hit pretty good enough the tires come loose at mere half throttle now. If you building the wiretap on boost pressure only then you could dig a hole in the CANBus map and where the wiretap would start.

OMG... That's a fast build.

Ok then... Try one more. Go under custom tunning and then hit the IMPORT button. Select your downloaded file. That should work for sure. I just tried it out.

Get down too much farther then what happens is the ECM has problems cutting fuel enough to make it idle at 800 RPM so it might start to rise in idle RPM.

I'm going to leave that to @Me78569 . I'm a Ubuntu Linux user not a Windows User. I couldn't tell you. Both. I built the wiretap. I'm not sure if it will be too smoky ot not. Surf the site with the screen device and download the file. Then open iQuad app then switch back and open the downloaded tune. It should automatically open up in the iQuad and then you can name it.

Done... iQuad-marcus-2019-03-08-03.20.401383665520.json I errored on the side of caution and started timing at 15° and stepping +3 up. Then the fuel map is starting at about 85% and working its way to 150%. Gave +1° for cruise timing and 1.5° for load-based timing.

Hmmm... I would say my tune but the fuel map is cut too much you would have to bump it up. If you want I can take a stab and build you a tune and upload it to the site.

Time to buckle down and build a tune. Personally, I would suggest a stealth plate over a positap on the wire. Time to start getting your feet wet with tuning. You need to set your fuel table up and the timing table. You can skip the wiretap area for now since you without the wiretap.