Mopar1973Man

From Wikipedia... The A618, later renamed 47RE (electronically controlled governor pressure) is a heavier-duty version of A518 also known as the 46RE (which also has electronically controlled governor pressure, versus the earlier RH version, which was hydraulically controlled). It was used in trucks and vans starting in the mid-1990s. While currently used with some internal changes such as the move from aluminum to steel planetary carriers and an increase in the number of clutch plates when coupled to the 5.9 L Cummins Turbo-Diesel and the 8.0 L V-10 applications, it's still a 727 with overdrive and stronger internal parts. It has an input torque rating of 450 lb⋅ft (610 N⋅m). The 48RE is an electronically governed, ECU controlled, four-speed heavy-duty overdrive automatic transmission, that is stronger than its predecessor, the 47-series. The base design from the original Torqueflite remains largely unchanged and the addition of a 2-speed output shaft (overdrive unit) that is bolted to the back of the 3-speed transmission has only two ratios: direct (1:1) and overdrive (.69:1). While lubrication to the overdrive unit was a challenge early on, this challenge was later overcome with factory improvements and/or aftermarket valve body kits. The overdrive planetary has six pinion gears (unlike the 5 pinion used with the A518 used with the Cummins turbodiesel) which is often used as an aftermarket replacement for the stock 4 pinion planetary used with the lighter duty transmissions.

Correction... Any tuner will have a boost fooler. Just remember you extremely limited on what you can do. Here is the app I'm running and work awesome for tracking MPG data and maintenance data. https://simplyauto.app/ Hear nor there I'm sorry to say. We need to see long term data. Like here is 3 years of fuel log data and you can see when I was towing trailers. Then see when injectors started to fall low on pop pressure. Good fuel logs are critical to know if you are doing the right thing or not.

Just thinking of it... Might have to bring the cruise timing load value down. Might be hanging on the cruise timing too long or too high of engine load percentage. Then take your load based timing and increase it. This will give more retard to the timing when you fall out of the cruise timing state getting the turbo spooled back up.

HE351 is just about the same as my HX35/40 Hybrid.

This should help out.

Man, I'm so glad I've got a plain ol' open diff. Heading for 400k miles and the only thing I need to do is change the petroleum gear oil out every 30k miles with the fresh batch of 80w-90 GL-5. Cheap and working flawlessly for a long time.

Heck, you'd be better off with my HX35/40 (60/60/12).

Smarty S-03 and Smarty Touch both do boost fooler internal on there programming. But you'll only reach about 30-32 PSI at most. Remember Smarty S-03 and Smarty touch are only CANBus tuners. They both must play by the rules of the ECM. Hence why both tuners are typically limited to 60 HP tops. There are some claims that Smarty Touch can reach 100 HP. Still rather low for the price being Edge Comp and Edge Juice have reached the 120 HP mark long ago. Quadzilla at 180 HP.

Finding out there are people out there that want simple push button tuner. Keep in mind these exist out there but require that you start with stock fuel injectors and no bigger than about +50 HP tops. Like the Edge Juice, Edge Comp Edge EZ, and Smarty S-03, etc. Thes are all good tuners for stock trucks but you can never upgrade to bigger injectors without smoke or EGT's issues. Now the Smarty Touch ($1,700 full kit) and the Quadzilla Adrenaline ($675) are the only two tuners for the 24V trucks that allow for wider range of injectors and more precise tuning for your driving conditions. Full fuel and timing control of the injection pump. The Quadzilla shines above them all being you have full defuel limits you can set for protection. Then turbo cooldown that Smarty touch is missing and also no external gauges like fuel pressure are included with Smarty Touch. Remember the Smarty Touch is still just an Smarty S-03 tuner. You need all the other stuff like the Dongle, ComMod plug for programming on the fly, Smarty does not include the pyrometer, etc. Now for the 3rd Gen and above I would say Smarty Touch or MM3 tuner for sure. For the 2nd Gen 24V it strictly a Quadzilla thing. If you not willing to take the time to tune the Quadzilla I'm going to suggest not to bother. It's not a plug and an instant play tuner. You can't just make a tune perfect in mere minutes. Takes lots of driving time and working with different conditions and weather. Then you can get a good tune. Like Economy tune took me a good month of testing and tweaking to get above 20 MPG with 7 x 0.010 injectors at 320 bar. Which is well worth it, being the truck produces huge power on demand and still pass a fuel station.

Sure does in the fact of compression for ignition heat and also the ability to pump up pop pressure in the injection pump fast enough with possible worn injectors which might be bleeding out faster than popping. This why you need to close off the lines that seem to be pumping with a good flow so you can possibly make the injector pop off.

Now in a case like this go down to the local hardware store and buy a fender washer for the bolt that is missing in the photo. Now grind the washer in a tear drop shape and install. Problem fixed. That's all there is to it. But if you case look like mine you are already set. Close up the case and move on.

I would start with a Timbo's APPS first then see what happens. The dead pedal is the ECM way of protecting from an engine runaway. ECM had detected a value that is out of range and could be a dangerous condition of WOT. So instead of going WOT it dead pedal and does nothing for protecting your safety. Replace the APPS sensor first then we'll revisit this conversation afterward.

Fully charged batteries, good clean battery cables, and a strong starter make the difference between struggling to start and priming and starting fairly easy.

I'm not sure... But it might be the loose nut on the compressor wheel. It goes along with the loose nut behind the steering wheel too. I was going to say leave a check with a comma and we'll talk about it. Not an impossible job, but not easy either. Poor chicken man getting the love slathered on thick with a putty knife. Ah, We got your back there Dave!

Like @dripley shows that is an updated case no tabbing needed... Just like my case is the same thing no tab needed.

That tidbit comes from battling with @pepsi71ocean with his Smarty S-03 and how it affected the shifting of his transmission. Changing his Smarty tune changed the way the transmission shifted and behaved. Finding that the Quadzilla will do the same thing because of how you build your fuel and timing maps. You need to talk to @IBMobile he's got the awesome mystery switch setup that is sick and impossible to screw up. Impossible to leave the torque convert locked up and come to a stop being the brake pedal in his design will cancel the lock up.

Dang, mine is lower around the 1,200 RPM mark I was wondering if it was a Quadzilla issue or something else. Right near 1,200 it start bucking on light throttle right around the 25 to 30 MPH speed range. I would say change up the timing more retard at the 1,500 and see if it helps or not. I'm going to bet not.

Once the line is flowing it best to cap it off instantly and then keep pumping on the other lines till they flow then tighten them up. I've only once had to use ether / starting fluid on my truck because it just didn't want to crank prime. Just make sure to disconnect the grid heater power from the battery.

Being the filter minders for our truck is rated in inches of water column let's say I've never moved the filter minder once in 135k miles. I'm for sure not out flowing the filter. Everyone can throw tons of specs of filters out but how about taking a measurement of the amount of vacuum in the filter? Been there done that... Now if your pulling vacuum on the filter and can actually measure inches of water column or move the filter minder then I'd say you are out flowing the filter for sure.

Ummm... So how to get your pump on the Bosch 815 test stand to be calibrated to the new PSG? I'd never run a VP44 pump with mismatched parts between the pump and the PSG. If it was so easy then the Bosch 815 test stand would not exist.

Should be based on the 2,000 RPM should be 19 to 20 degrees typically. This can be impacted but tires and wheel sizes affecting the final ratio to the ground.

I've got the same issue but it all the time near idle it lopes. Launching it lopes and then when slowing down to stop it lopes. Once stopped its smooth. Once rolling its smooth.

Double check the RPM range it does surging problem exist at. I'm curious.

I've done overc135k miles on Idaho dirt roads. I've never had on collapse. Ill dig up some old video.

First off I've never seen a BHAF collapse yet. Even with my pulling 47 PSI of boost. I've gotta ask about what is causing the collapse...